Ran into a strange issue with a new-to-me but ~60 year old S&W Highway Patrolman (pre-Model 28). About one or two rounds per cylinder the cylinder rotation would bind in double-action shooting. Sometimes it would bind right at the start of the pull, sometimes about half way through, sometimes right near the break. It doesn't bind when dry firing, nor does it bind during single action shooting. I doubt I'm short stroking it too.

My cursory internet research indicates this is likely due to issues with the hand or the hand spring but I'm deferring to the SigForum braintrust for ideas. Has anyone had something like this happen? Is it as simple as lubricating the hand or hand spring?

Thanks all, really appreciate any ideas y'all may have.

*edited for the correct model

This message has been edited. Last edited by: caneau,

Try checking the end of the ejector rod, my model 10 sometimes backs off and the gun will lock up tighter than a tick..I just screw it back in and it will work fine for another 100 or so rounds...

If it doesn’t bind during dry fire, it also could be inconsistent primer seating.

Some primers aren’t seated evenly and can bind.

Also, the Highway Patrolman was a Model 28, not model 29.

Probably the hand/cylinder interface some place. I'd look at the head of your ejector star, checking for burrs or knicks on the pawl. After that, check the hand for any cracks or chips. Lastly, check your headspace and endshake. Theoretically, you could have too much play & the hand is binding on the head of the pawl.

Failing any of those, yes, pop the side plate & check the hand spring's resistance.

Great suggestions. Use a flat feeler gauge to measure headspace between forcing cone and cylinder face throughout each stop in it’s rotation to check cylinder alignment. A standard paper business card is approximately the correct thickness and should work in a pinch if you don’t have a gauge. If it’s off you have a bent part, likely the extractor rod, though over enthusiastic cops occasionally manage to screw up cranes playing cowboy.

quote:

Originally posted by jljones:
If it doesn’t bind during dry fire, it also could be inconsistent primer seating.

Some primers aren’t seated evenly and can bind.

Also, the Highway Patrolman was a Model 28, not model 29.

Thanks. But this was with two different ammunitions.

quote:

Originally posted by caneau:

quote:

Originally posted by jljones:
If it doesn’t bind during dry fire, it also could be inconsistent primer seating.

Some primers aren’t seated evenly and can bind.

Also, the Highway Patrolman was a Model 28, not model 29.

Thanks. But this was with two different ammunitions.

Yeah, but what kind (brand) of ammunition. I have a range very close to my house that will not allow the use of reloads unless it's their "house" reloads. Stuff I wouldn't recommend to a friend or even someone I disliked. Unfortunately at present that is about all that can be found to shoot. So even if your shooting two different brands there could be a possibility both brands have primers that weren't properly seated. If you are using Federal or Remington out of your personal stash then poorly seated primers is not a likely cause of your issue.

Things to check.

First look for rub marks on the face and rear of your cylinder, preferably after firing without any cleaning having been done. As a pre-model 28 your revolver has recessed cylinders and with this type of revolver the clearance at the rear of the cylinder is rather tight. There actually were periods when the QC at S&W wasn't nearly as good as some believe. It was not at all uncommon for many gunshop gunsmiths to have to do some "tuning" on brand new S&W revolvers in those post WWII "glory days". Which is why many of those purchasing these older revolvers find they usually work rather well. However with a sock drawer special all bets are off because those revolvers purchased for home defense and kept in the sock drawer were almost never actually fired by the new owner. As a result they never got returned to the gunshop for a repair.

Second, try cocking the revolver by hand to see if it also binds when using the hammer to cock the gun. If you don't get a bind when cocking by hand that is an indication that the problem may be with the DA sear. If so it's probably because the sear wasn't properly fitted at the factory. BTW, if when you purchased your revolver the finish was near perfect with only tiny rust freckles and little evidence of being used you do have a sock drawer special.

Third, and this one is a head slapper with a Homer "Duh" do go with it. Did you check under the extractor star for powder debris? All it takes is a tiny bit of grit from the powder under that star to cause a bind on the face of the recoil shield. The solution for this problem is to point the barrel STRAIGHT UP when ejecting the empty cases. Doing this keeps the powder debris within the cases as they fall free of the cylinder. If you just tip the revolver on an angle to catch the cases in the palm of your hand you will sump powder debris from the cases right into the extractor star. BTW, I have personally learned this lesson the hard way.

BTW, I have purchased two Sock Drawer Specials.

One is a 1958 vintage model 36 that featured a 16 lbs DA trigger pull. Just 15 rounds downrange had my index finger bleeding. Replaced the mainspring and it now has a 10 lbs. DA trigger and is perfectly reliable. Note, I also cut own the serrations on the trigger.

Second was a 2 1/2 inch 1973 vintage 19-3. This one had zero marks at all on the recoil shield and only showed evidence of firing in 3 chambers. It also had a short hammer nose and would only fire in single action using 38 special ammunition, with Magnum primers it would not fire. It also would not fire at all in double action. Fixing this required installing a new hammer nose. On the plus side the factory tuned trigger broke at 9 lbs. even, right where I like my DA triggers.

Bent crane will do that.

Not short stroking and the trigger is fully reset?

Try this...Clean and check for debris under revolver extractor star area with a good light. A brass brush and air works well for those pesky pressed in debris.

Had the same thing happen on my new 686. I sent it to S&W. They replaced the hand. And all the other MIM parts. Been working good since.

John!

I’ll third the suggestion that you look under the extractor. You also want to avoid leaving oil or solvent between the extractor and the cylinder, which gives partially burned powder grains something to adhere to.

I’d be quite surprised if OP didn’t look under the extractor before posting so I doubt that’s the issue.

My 29 would do that, the ejector rod would back out after several sessions with some 44 Magnum loads, the cylinder would bind from the extractor tip being tight up against the frame.

Thanks all. 90% sure this is being caused by a canted yolk causing the cylinder to bind against the barrel. It's worse after firing due to thermal expansion. It's going to a gunsmith this week to verify.

Had similar issues with my M28. endshake/tight cylinder gap. Tried shimming with power customer shims but the yoke was not square I guess. Sent it to S&W for repair (on my dime). Took them two tries but they finally got it running right again.

quote:

Originally posted by 1KPerDay:
Had similar issues with my M28. endshake/tight cylinder gap. Tried shimming with power customer shims but the yoke was not square I guess. Sent it to S&W for repair (on my dime). Took them two tries but they finally got it running right again.

If my gunsmith can't fix it, it'll go back to S&W. Thanks, glad I'm not the only one to run into this. Lovely historic gun otherwise. But I still prefer Colts