Cleaning Fire Control Module P320C

April 20, 2019, 04:45 PM

lgldsr73

Greetings,

I have a Sig P320C .45 and am wondering what is the best way to clean the Fire Control Module short of disassembly. Sig said to thoroughly soak it in CLP and let it drip dry but I can only see that being a magnet for lead. I've used CLP for years and to 'soak' anything in CLP it's not going to drip dry. Not going to happen. CLP and Q-tips? Any input appreciated and thanks.

Lyman

April 20, 2019, 06:54 PM

sns3guppy

The idea is to have the frame not dripped dry...yes there will be residue, but there is supposed to be.

If you want to clean it and dry it, there's always electrical cleaner or brake cleaner to dry it, then you can re-oil any way you like. If you go that route, it shouldn't be in the grip module.

Lube or oil won't be a "lead magnet," but it may pick up dust or combustion products. Lead goes downrange.

I wipe the grip module down in the frame most of the time, get what I can with q-tips, and if the grip module needs more cleaning, then it can be removed and cleaned. For the most part, however, I put lucas oil on the moving parts, same make of grease on the rails and in the slide, and to clean wipe both as best I can and re-lube. The grease and oil take the contamination with them when cleaned. Problem solved.

April 20, 2019, 09:05 PM

jackimoe

There are certainly a bunch of ways to do it. I break it down into three steps with the module out of the frame:

1) Clean. Apply solvent or favorite cleaner to toothbrush and scrub.

2) Rinse. Brake parts cleaner in an aerosol can will remove all traces of grease, lube and dirt. You can spray directly onto the assembly or spray it into an olive jar or slender glass jar with lid and give it a couple swirls to rinse also.

3) Lube. I use the very light and runny Remington REM-OIL aerosol product. I spray the whole assemble and come back with another toothbrush that is only for lube and not solvent. A cotton swab works as well.

You can also check into the lighter fluid method if you want minimal crud attracting lubrication. The Remington 700 shooters have used it for years.

April 20, 2019, 09:08 PM

92fstech

I remove mine from the grip frame, scrub witha toothbrush dipped in hoppes, then hose it off with brake-kleen. Once it dries, lube the contact points and re-install into the grip frame.

April 21, 2019, 09:04 AM

ensigmatic

Years ago I posted here there my P239 SAS had begun to *squeak*. Asked here what to do. Somebody replied "Field strip. Remove grip panels. Flush thoroughly with aerosol CLP. Blow out thoroughly with compressed air. Wipe off any remaining excess. Lube as normal."

I did that. Worked like a champ. I've since applied that to several of my pistols, incl. the striker-fired "plastic" ones w/o grip panels.

I don't do that often. Just when it seems necessary or the mood strikes.

"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system,,,, but too early to shoot the bastards." -- Claire Wolfe
"If we let things terrify us, life will not be worth living." -- Seneca the Younger, Roman Stoic philosopher

April 22, 2019, 12:13 AM

Horn

I've never noticed my FCU getting very dirty...even after a few hundred rounds.
I've cleaned it a couple of times. I spray it with 91% acolhol (Buy it in the Pharmacy dept.) the
use my small compressor to blow it dry. Its stainless and need very little lube. I often use
Otis Dry Lube spray for this. Then let it set for
a while. The dry lube leaves a thin lube residue.
This part requires little maintenance and just s wee bit of lube surface.
One thing about firearms cleaning and lubing....
Most all of the brands do fine, actually.
Stay safe (
Means be home for dinner after a day's duty)
Poli Viejo

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