quote:

Originally posted by Ironworker:
If both cylinders came with the gun from Cimarron, I would return the gun and both cylinders to them. It may need more work then is readily visible to be right. Why not have their gunsmith check it out and fix whatever is needed?

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cee_Kamp

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If the base pin bushing from the primary cylinder is fitted to the second cylinder, everything operates fine.

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Originally posted by cee_Kamp:
The best way to fix this problem is to get the tight base pin bushing honed.
Since the base pin bushings are removeable, take both of them, along with the base pin, to a machine shop that has a Sunnen honing machine.
Any machine shop that is properly equipped will have a Sunnen honing machine. An automotive machine shop should also be equipped with a Sunnen honing machine.
Don't take the revolver or the cylinders to the machine shop as they may refuse to do the job because it's "gun" related.
Take only the base pin and both bushings. And only if they ask, the parts are for a 1938 Fordson tractor governor.

Now, as far as doing that job yourself.
First, take a nice new fine cut mill file. Check the undersized base pin bushing for "hardness" with the mill file.
If the file "skates" across the bushing like it's made from glass, it's too hard for a "home repair" and you will need to get it honed. Obviously, do your file "hardness test" in a non critical location.

Now if the file actually removes a bit of steel, you may be able to do it yourself. You'll need a VERY good selection of drill bits. A twist drill can be used like a reamer if you're only taking out a thousandth or two. Use a micrometer to measure the existing base pin. Use the shank end of various drill bits (the end that goes in the drill chuck) and use them like a gauge pin for measuring the hole in the cylinder that fits. Your goal is to make the undersized hole the same size as the "good" base pin bushing hole. Use plenty of cutting oil, automatic transmission fluid works in a pinch.

Place the undersized base pin bushing in a machine vise that has a vertical "V" groove machined in the fixed jaw. It can be done on a table top drill press if you have the selection of sharp drill bits, and the machine vise. If you don't have the selection of drill bits available, it will be lower cost to get it honed vs buying the drill bits you'll need.

What is the selection of drill bits you'll need? Likely fractional, numerical, letter & metric. If you have only the eight piece set of fractional drill bits from Lowe's, take the job to the machine shop.

If you get the .45ACP cylinder to fit into the revolver, the "timing" can be checked using a range rod or brass bar that is a tight fit in the barrel. Check all charge holes in the cylinder.
What is the tight fit in the barrel? Tight enough you can move the range rod by hand, and little to none radial play.

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Originally posted by GaryBF:

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If the base pin bushing from the primary cylinder is fitted to the second cylinder, everything operates fine.

Isn't that the answer to his problem? Just swap the bushing when changing cylinders.

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Originally posted by Greymann:
No drills needed, with only .005 to go.
Hone it at home with a hand lap and some clover valve lapping compound.
Nothing to it.

https://www.mcmaster.com/lapping-tools/
.
You'll need to find out your revolver head space dimensions.

[FLASH_VIDEO]<iframe frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/CQWaKFSov4E" width="560"></iframe>[/FLASH_VIDEO]

quote:

Originally posted by cee_Kamp:
Take the .45ACP cylinder out of the gun.
Take your gun cleaning equipment and push a white cleaning patch into each cylinder charge hole from the back of the cylinder. (use the cleaning rod without a jag or tip)
Push the patches so they are about 1/16" short of the barrel/cylinder gap end of the cylinder. (goal here is six patches lodged in the charge holes, one patch per hole)
The "white patch" material will help illuminate.
Reinstall the cylinder.
Using a bright flashlight, or two, illuminate the barrel cylinder gap with the flashlight(s). Extra hands from an assistant or two WILL be helpful.
Look down the bore from the muzzle end. A "gross" misalignment will be visually noticeable. (human eye can see a couple thousandths misalignment when viewing concentric circles)
Check on all charge holes, with revolver cocked.
Don't forget to remove the white patches before firing with ammunition!
If it looks good visually, test with a lower pressure lead projectile cartridge on each charge hole.
You can place a sheet of copier paper sandwiched on a piece of manila file folder. (take file folder and cut it in half, 8.5" X 11" white paper added to each half of the file folder)
Shoot the revolver with the paper/manila file folder material located on both sides of the barrel cylinder gap. (about a foot away)
You can place the paper/manila file folder inside a cardboard box of the appropriate size and shoot the revolver inside the box after removing some cardboard top and bottom.
(cardboard box is a simple holder for the paper/manila file folder material)
Any "spitting" from the barrel cylinder gap will be visible on the white paper, the manila file folder underlayment provides physical strength to the paper so the "gas" blast doesn't shred it.
FYI: NO steel or iron for a range rod.