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revolver guys -- what was the go-to replacement spring kit for your S&W revolvers ?? Login/Join 
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posted
recall reading about a spring replacement kit for S&W revolvers... specifically J frames.

the factory action is a bit 'lurchy'

any recommendations are appreciated

------------------------------------


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Posts: 8799 | Location: Florida | Registered: September 20, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Posts: 28230 | Location: Northwest Arkansas | Registered: January 06, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Wilson or Apex. Have used both and zero issues and they really make the triggers nice.
 
Posts: 465 | Registered: August 09, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I've eyed the Apex kit for a few years, but my 36 gets taken out so rarely that I haven't pulled the trigger on it.




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Posts: 10297 | Location: Spring, TX | Registered: July 11, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
For real?
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I'm not a revolver guy, I believe this is a model 38 J frame?
Will the Apex kit fit in it?




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Posts: 7329 | Location: Cleveland, OH | Registered: August 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I believe the apex kits are for the newer J’s. Not sure all the springs would be compatible with the older bodyguard series.

Should only need a good cleaning ( make sure to remove the side plate correctly !)

And shoot it.

I have been running mostly older pre lock era S&W’s for about 4 decades now and have never used a spring kit or had the need to tinker with any of them
 
Posts: 2939 | Location: Finally free in AZ! | Registered: February 14, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I've always used Wolff with no complaints.
 
Posts: 688 | Location: Midwest | Registered: April 13, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I put a Wilson kit in my Model 69. It had a pretty horrible trigger out of the box, and it's the only S&W revolver I've owned that I've felt the need to change springs in. I'm typically ok with a decently heavy trigger on a revolver so long as it's smooth. This one was heavy and stacky.

The kit came with a re-contoured hammer spring and 3 rebound slide springs of different weights. The mainspring had a huge nasty burr right where it meets the hammer strut (and I mean HUGE...it looked kind of like flashing). I was able to polish that out, but it never should have left the factory like that. Only the heaviest of the rebound springs was heavy enough for positive trigger return...it's a good thing they included 3. The other 2 were way too light and produced a very slow, mushy return.

The biggest problem was that the hammer spring caused light strikes (at least one per cylinder), even on Federal primers. I fixed this by shimming the end of the strain screw with a spent large pistol primer. The trigger pull is excellent now, and I have had no more light strikes in about 200 rounds, but I'm keeping the original parts handy in case they start up again.

IMO they should have made the spring a little heavier to start with to ensure reliability. The best trigger in the world is worthless if the gun doesn't go bang when the hammer falls. There was a lot of room to play with between the factory spring and they one they sent me that they could have taken advantage of, but instead they erred on the side of unreliability.
 
Posts: 5350 | Location: In the Cornfields | Registered: May 25, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by M1Garandy:
I've always used Wolff with no complaints.


Yep, used them in a few of my revolvers. They work great.


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Posts: 574 | Location: Illinois | Registered: December 03, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I would leave the stock mainspring in a defensive revolver. Some of the aftermarket springs will produce light strikes. If you do replace the hammer spring, it should be tested thoroughly to see that you don't get light strikes. You could, however, replace the rebound spring, and along with some judicious polishing, get a smoother and lighter trigger pull. I usually polish the rebound slide and the area where it travels in the frame. I've found a 14 lb. spring usually gives a fairly snappy return. You may go up or down one pound and test for acceptable trigger return. (The stock rebound spring is 18 lbs.) Wolf has sets of these springs in different weights. You can also lightly polish the hammer block and the area where it rides in the sideplate. Leave the hammer, trigger, and other parts alone. If you're not familiar with the internals of the Smith revolver, there are, of course, many Youtube videos on the topic. I know Jerry Miculek has a decent video.
 
Posts: 43 | Location: Wooster, Ohio | Registered: December 17, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Wolff has been my choice in gun springs for a long time.



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Posts: 9032 | Registered: March 23, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I like the Wilson kits.


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Waco

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Posts: 1644 | Location: Yorktown, VA | Registered: July 03, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by RogueJSK:
Apex Duty/Carry spring kit:
https://www.apextactical.com/j...uty-carry-spring-kit


Those do make a nice bit of difference and are trivial to install. It isn't the equivalent of a trigger job, but it is a noticeable improvement.




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Posts: 50789 | Location: Texas | Registered: February 10, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Another vote for Wolff.


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Posts: 5152 | Location: Pottstown, PA | Registered: April 26, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by savoy6:
I would leave the stock mainspring in a defensive revolver. Some of the aftermarket springs will produce light strikes. If you do replace the hammer spring, it should be tested thoroughly to see that you don't get light strikes. You could, however, replace the rebound spring, and along with some judicious polishing, get a smoother and lighter trigger pull. I usually polish the rebound slide and the area where it travels in the frame. I've found a 14 lb. spring usually gives a fairly snappy return. You may go up or down one pound and test for acceptable trigger return. (The stock rebound spring is 18 lbs.) Wolf has sets of these springs in different weights. You can also lightly polish the hammer block and the area where it rides in the sideplate. Leave the hammer, trigger, and other parts alone. If you're not familiar with the internals of the Smith revolver, there are, of course, many Youtube videos on the topic. I know Jerry Miculek has a decent video.


This. Exactly this.
 
Posts: 281 | Location: Illinois | Registered: June 13, 2020Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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No experience with replacement springs in the J-frames.

Last year I purchased two of the Wilson Combat K-frame spring kits for my 4" Model 66 and 2" Model 64. Both revolvers are 40-plus years old, no particular problems with either. I was quite pleased with the results in both.

Ordered direct from Wilson Combat, delivered to my home for under $20 each. For anyone with experience in detail-stripping a S&W revolver the change over takes maybe 10 minutes. I spent a bit longer doing a deep cleaning of the internals to get rid of accumulated crud.


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Posts: 843 | Location: Colorado | Registered: March 07, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Apex Duty/Carry.
 
Posts: 6012 | Location: Northwest Indiana | Registered: August 15, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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