1911’s, countless slide stops when I was big into 1911’s.

Glocks: over the course of 80k rounds in several Glocks I’ve broken 5 slide stops. Always the spring breaking where it attaches to the lever. Also 2 trigger springs.

I have a Springfield 1911 TRP. The ejector is held in place by adhesive. A couple hundred rounds resulted in the ejector coming lose and binding the slide. A trip to the mothership fixed it by pinning it.

I broke a slidestop on a Colt 1911.

The thumb safety snapped 2X on a Kimber Stainless 1911.

Broke a MIM Mag catch on a 4516-3.

And recently broke a sideplate on a S&W budget gun model 457. But it took 9000 round through it to do that. Contrary to what you read on gunboards, the replacement part was easy to find on gunbroker. Regards 18DAI

Bersa BP9CC. Functioned flawlessly for about 400 rounds.
At the range and the trigger went dead. No reset, no nothing.
Stripped it down and couldn't see anything grossly wrong. Sent it back, they returned a new one to me. No explanation.
Promptly sold it.

Walther PPQ 22lr - slide cracked and was repaired by Company and takedown lever one side broke - LGS had it fixed for me.

Ruger Mark IV 22/45 lite - barrel nut lose - I have not sent it back yet but I am tighentening it with my fingers and it is still working.

Several broken springs in semi autos.


I've had two revolver barrels start to unscrew. Just lucky I guess.

A couple of my older P-Series Pistols, problems with very frequent roll pin walk outs - retuned to Sig, and corrected.

Most recently: Before the re-introduction of Ruger's model SP101 in 9mm, An original I picked up used approximately 20 years ago - had a cylinder go severely out of time, but only every 3 to 4 cycles. Ruger took it back to look at, determined that "they couldn't repair it". They, shortly thereafter, re-introduced the model though?

To Ruger's credit, they gave me a substantial credit towards "any new gun in their catalogue". Ended up picking out a new Blackhawk convertible 357/38/9mm in stainless.

German P226 roll pins 2x; I replaced them.

kel-tec PF-9 trigger bar at 58 rounds, gripframe at 400 and slide at 698 rounds, gave up.

Gen 3 G23 left rear frame rail broke, fixed for free

Ruger MKIII 22/45 rebound spring 2x, chamber face flaking off at 10K+ rounds. Still works. Ruger sent me springs for free.

Taurus PT101AF rear sight pin 2x. Taurus fixed one then sent me parts free.

CZ75B Omega hammer dropped to half cock from DA stroke (fixed for free by Cajun).

Dan Wesson slide stop out of spec; locked up partially back; fixed for free.

S&W 340 M&P shot 18 inches right, tritium vial broke, top strap milled crooked, sent it in free and they adjusted and replaced the front sight, said it was within acceptable specs. Still shoots 8 inches right at 15 yards.

S&W M28 endshake and bent yoke, fixed on my dime; sent to S&W 2x over 4 months but they eventually got it right.

Ruger gen 1 LCP frame broke at the rear pin, replaced and upgraded for free.

CMP Garand doubled several times, fixed for free.

Different CMP Garand, firing pin broke, they sent me two.

CMP NPM M1 carbine, stock broke internally at rear tang screw hole, still haven't bothered to fix.

SAI M1A hammer follow, poor stock fit. I fixed it by installing and fitting a chicom stock.

PSA LPK new mag catch shaft broke; no response from company. I replaced it.


That's all I can recall off the top of my head.

I have experienced the following in my P220 that was recently taken out of service after 22 years of faithful and reliable service.

Hammer return spring- could still be used in an emergency

Trigger bar- completely disabled the weapon

Double roll pin, breech block- The outer pin had broken in 2 places, but the inner pin kept the block from falling out, though loose. The gun probably would have still fired, but wouldn't want to unless my life depended on it.

The only other thing I experienced was a rounded extractor on an AR. It kept slipping off of fired cartridge rims, causing jams. I was able to do a temporary fix at the range by putting a thin plastic shim under the extractor spring to get through the day.

While a street cop chased and tackled a armed robbery suspect years ago before our agency changed to the Sig p226. i had unstrapped my holster prior to him taking off running and when I tackled the subject my S&W revolver came out of my holster and landed on the pavement forcing the cylinder out of alignment. We both fought for the gun but I came up with it. The revolver would not have fired if I had to use it because of the cylinder being out of line.

My only breakage was the slide stop on my KelTec P11.
Still functioned fine, just the ear that engages off of the magazine follower broke off & kept the slide stop from pushing up to engage.

KT sent a replacement & it was a quick swap.

Browning Hi Power, the firing pin broke, but it would still function.

Sig GSR 1911, the extractor broke after about twice as many rounds as the factory recommends replacement.

EAA Witness, the trigger return spring broke, replaced it, works fine.

The front sight on a Walther PPQ went flying off into the desert. I replaced it with a fiber optic version that I loctited. It's still there.

Had a hammer nose break on a replica Colt Single Action Army during a match when I did SASS. Cleaned a Smith & Wesson 4516-1 once and found the disconnect had broken. I bought a Smith & Wesson Model 66 with hammer push off. Easy fix. Got a well used Smith & Wesson Model 10-8 for cheap due to the timing being off. Fitted an over sized hand and it was a great shooter. Should have kept that one.

Locking block pin on Glock 23C x 2.

Follower on Yugo SKS.

Hold open latch spring on Yugo SKS.

Rear sight on SA 1943 Garand.

Extractor on 226 X5 competition 9mm.

Cartridge interrupter on Mossberg 500.

Front handguard on SVT 40.

Mag release and magazine detonation on a Remington 597 .17HMR.

I have HK, I don't understand the question???



Just kidding.

G17 G3, slide stop spring - somewhere north of 5k rounds. On my dime, super cheap and easy fix.

Well used 1968-ish S&W 19-3 2.5" end shake, new yoke and cylinder axle. Cheap parts, did it myself.

Brand spanking new Kahr CW45 - wouldn't take a full mag on a chambered round. If you did manage to hammer it home, it bound the gun up so tight it wouldn't unlock completely when fired. And when it was fired, it swelled the dust cover enough to make it a bitch to get apart. So bad that it would not go back together. CS said "that's normal" to the first two and "tough shit" (paraphrasing) to the second. Literally told me the gun is not made to be +1. Load the mag, chamber from the mag, and do not top off.

Ok, that's an easy fix for me; stop buying Kahr.

27 years in LE, 20+ on the Range staff...here is what I've seen...

Glock 22 Gen 3 with 30,000+ rounds in it with a cracked locking block
Glock 23 Gen 3 with a broken slide lock lever spring. pulled out the old and put in a new...
A P320 that blew out the extractor due to a weak 9mm case...I just popped the piece back in and it ran after that...