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Help me put the best parts in a Glock 19

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December 13, 2017, 01:50 PM
Anubismp
Help me put the best parts in a Glock 19
I'm building a Glock 19 Gen 3 from a Glock frame and need to throw parts in. I've got a few ideas for parts I want but I'd like to know what parts we like and why. If OEM is best for a certain parts then great but I'm perfectly happy stepping out of the factory box. Its going to be an RMR build and there are no limits ie it's not for duty though I may consider using it for carry. If you only have feedback for specific parts that's appreciated as well.
December 13, 2017, 03:29 PM
swage
If it's for carry use stock factory parts and a G 17 smooth trigger.

The only thing I change on my G 19's is the smooth trigger from a G 17.
December 13, 2017, 03:48 PM
JWF
1.The afore mentioned smooth faced trigger.
2.Tango Down slide release for just a little more purchase on the tab.
3.A Glock OEM - connector.
4.A Hackathorn style sight set from Ameriglo.
5.An extended magazine release (similar to one offered by GlockStore).

This is about where I am with my improvements on my Gen 3.


Just another day in paradise.

December 13, 2017, 04:13 PM
sns3guppy
quote:
Originally posted by Anubismp:
I'm building a Glock 19 Gen 3 from a Glock frame and need to throw parts in. I've got a few ideas for parts I want but I'd like to know what parts we like and why. If OEM is best for a certain parts then great but I'm perfectly happy stepping out of the factory box. Its going to be an RMR build and there are no limits ie it's not for duty though I may consider using it for carry. If you only have feedback for specific parts that's appreciated as well.


If reliability is the chief aim (whenever is it not?), glock factory parts. I use the glock minus (-) connector. Smooth trigger (G17). Either the basic unextended slide stop release, or the Vickers. I'm using Vickers.

The Glock magazine release works fine, but I use the Vickers; it's a bit more rounded and comfortable, and half-way between standard and extended glock releases.

I have advantage arms minimalist mag wells on each pistol. They're slim, accept just about any baseplate, and protect the bottom of the mag well a bit. They also have a feel of funneling the hand upward for a higher grip.
December 13, 2017, 04:19 PM
soggy_spinout
I agree with the above, though I prefer the factory extended slide stop over the Tango Down/Vickers part. It all depends on hand/thumb length. The TD part isn't that much more effective for me than the stock piece. I'd also do the MARS ambi mag release that Rainier Arms sells. I've taken to this device on a couple of my Glocks, and slowly but certainly will update all of my compatible Glocks to this release. Kind of spendy but now worth it to me. Time with the VP9 and PPQ have developed my view on my 'need' for a release on the right side of the gun. YMMV depending on your own dexterity and hand/finger size, but for me the thing has been a great upgrade.
December 13, 2017, 07:25 PM
Anubismp
Thanks for the help so far. Here are a few specific things Ive thought up since making the OP.

My specific concerns are
Completion kit vs piece meal for slide and frame


Non Mim "match" locking blocks and if any mechanical accuracy is gained from them or if they hurt reliability.


Ti roll pins good or bad.


Do I want an aftermarket firing pin?


Any particular parts that are better than factory stuff besides triggers and connectors.

I already have suppressor sights and will likely drop in a factory threaded barrel. I'm leaning very heavily towards the Brownells RMR slide.

Thanks again
December 13, 2017, 07:47 PM
sns3guppy
I wouldn't mess with the firing pin or any other slide component, including the recoil spring assembly.

There's no value in frame pins other than stock.

Your stock factory locking block will go 200,000 rounds, so I wouldn't worry about putting something else there.

There are no shortage of companies who want to sell you aftermarket everything, and many will tell you that they're better. You can spent a lot of money for the illusion of improvement, but Glocks tend to be very reliable with stock parts. Begin changing parts out, and you'll have an expensive question mark.
December 13, 2017, 08:00 PM
P220 Smudge
quote:
Originally posted by sns3guppy:
If reliability is the chief aim (whenever is it not?), glock factory parts. I use the glock minus (-) connector. Smooth trigger (G17). Either the basic unextended slide stop release, or the Vickers. I'm using Vickers.


This is where I'm at, and haven't even done the smooth faced trigger on my Gen 4 yet, but it's on my list. Vickers stuff for any extended controls and stock as possible with a polish job on the critical points on the internals. Don't have their mag release on my 19's, but I do on my 42, and it's just about perfect.


______________________________________________
"If the truth shall kill them, let them die.”

Endeavoring to master the subtle art of the grapefruit spoon.
December 14, 2017, 12:04 PM
Dusty78
quote:
Originally posted by Anubismp:
Thanks for the help so far. Here are a few specific things Ive thought up since making the OP.

My specific concerns are
Completion kit vs piece meal for slide and frame


Non Mim "match" locking blocks and if any mechanical accuracy is gained from them or if they hurt reliability.


Ti roll pins good or bad.


Do I want an aftermarket firing pin?


Any particular parts that are better than factory stuff besides triggers and connectors.

I already have suppressor sights and will likely drop in a factory threaded barrel. I'm leaning very heavily towards the Brownells RMR slide.

Thanks again


Why a factory threaded barrel? Aftermarket barrels from Zev, SF3, Agency, etc...have been proven to be more accurate. Plus the factory thread are M13.5 x 1LH. Not exactly ideal. Personally I like my Agency barrels the best. I don’t personally subscribe to the only factory parts for carry mantra. My carry gun is a custom Glock 26L (19 cutdown) where the only factory parts are the frame and pins. I have to date 1050 rounds through it without a single malfunction. My trigger is set at 5 lbs but is much more crisp with no pre-travel. I feel that as long as you do it right from the start and do a thurough break in you should be fine.


_______________________________________________
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December 14, 2017, 12:58 PM
.38supersig
Hey,

I'd start with a Salient flat trigger group. Add a flared magwell with matching magazine basepads. Stipple and double undercut the trigger guard. A ZEV Dragonfly slide with full ZEV parts. Co-witness sights for your Trijicon adjustable RMR. A Salient box fluted barrel fits right in. Trim it off with Titanium-Nitride accents and it will look like this: