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Web Clavin Extraordinaire |
I recently pulled my 627 out of the safe after a long time tucked away. For some reason, the cylinder barely rotates anymore, and as such the trigger barely works. Yes, in DA I can pull it the whole way through but it feels like there's molasses in their or something. SA isn't so bad since the cylinder's not rotating. Anyway, gun was cleaned before it went into the safe and that's it. No idea what might have happened since it's been entirely untouched for months. Thoughts? ---------------------------- Chuck Norris put the laughter in "manslaughter" Educating the youth of America, one declension at a time. | ||
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Not really from Vienna |
Remove the front sideplate screw (it may have a little spring and pointed cup attached-don't lose them) and open the cylinder, then pull the yoke (crane) and cylinder forward toward the muzzle to remove. Pull the cylinder off the yoke. You'll probably find that the lubricant and fouling have turned into something like tar. Clean the yoke and lube it with a drop or two of light oil (I like Tri-Flow for this), then reassemble. | |||
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To all of you who are serving or have served our country, Thank You |
Some gun oils do this to revolvers over time. It is almost like they turn to varnish over time. I've learned to stay away from those that do. | |||
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| Member |
Un screw the knurled end of the ejector rod. Clean it and the whole cylinder assembly. Then reassemble it with oil. I have no idea why, but my 627 would loosen the knurled end. Then there would be gunk blown on the threads. Keeping it from being fully tightened down. That cause it to rotate the cylinder roughly, be hard to open the cylinder and close the cylinder. | |||
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| Not really from Vienna |
The ejector rod is one piece over its length. Be careful if you try to use a tool to "unscrew the knurled end"-you'll booger up the knurling. If it won't unscrew with your fingers, I don't think it is the source of your trouble. The threads on the rod are super-fine, the rods are easily bent, and I recollect that some S&W ejector rods are reverse threaded, too. | |||
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| Member |
Don't unscrew the ejector rod! Your the side plate screw that is forward of the trigger, directly below the cylinder window just aft of the the lettering on the bottom right of the frame if the gun is pointing to your right. If you remove that screw only, when you open the cylinder the entire cylinder / crane assembly can be slid out of the revolver to the front. When the assembly is out, the crane simply slips out of the front of the cylinder. You can use a spray solvent at that point to get any gunk out. As afrmel said above, you most likely have varinished up oil in the action as well. | |||
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| 7.62mm Crusader |
IIRC, the ejector rod threads are left hand. Good piece of information for Oat. | |||
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| That's just the Flomax talking  |
Sometimes powder flakes get under the extracor star and cause drag. Scrub with a tooth brush. | |||
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| Member |
Please ignore this suggestion. Because the ejector rod features an EXTREMELY fine pitch thread that is very easy to cross thread. As a result of this if you try and "force" it you'll find you will have to pay to have a new extractor rod and ejector star fitted to your revolver and cylinder. Basically it's a really quick way to flush about 200 bucks down the toilet. Carb cleaner is your friend here because it's an excellent solvent and with a stainless steel revolver you don't have to be concerned about damaging a blued or nickel finish. So hose the center pin, ejector rod, extractor star, and cylinder with carb cleaner and let it soak for 30-60 minutes. Then rinse with soapy water, then plain water, then a gun cleaning solvent, and finally some rubbing alcohol. Once it's completely dry then a few judiciously placed drop of oil will provide the lubrication. BTW, WD-40 is NOT oil, it is actually Water Displacing Formula # 40. Coat some steel with WD-40 and in about 5 to 10 years and it will resemble glue but will keep that steel from rusting. A quality oil is Dad's old 3 in 1 oil or even Mobil One and you only need a couple of well placed drops. Finally make sure that there isn't ANY debris of any description under the extractor star. Because a very common cause for a cylinder dragging or binding is a stray particle of powder lodged under the extractor and preventing it from returning completely. I've stopped counting. | |||
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| Member |
Oh for fucks sake where did i say force it? I had this issue with my 627. How many detractors to cleaning the ejector rod actually have owned a 627? Let alone one with this specific issue. Here is mine, i had several thousand rounds through it before i sold it.  2 poetential solutions were given. Both can cause this issue. I have had the varnish lock up my 617, and the option i laid out happen on my 627. | |||
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"Member" |
Left hand threads. yes. Right hand threads prior to... Mmm... 1957 or so? (I used to know these things before I got civilized) Try it with your hands. Don't use a pliers. They make special tools. You can use a vice with a flat padded jaw or with protective inserts. Sometimes you can use the chuck of a drill press if it isn't scored up, but be careful. Before that, open the cylinder, hold the latch rearward and try the trigger. Make sure it's a not an internal issue. Also, look to see if the cylinder face is rubbing on the forcing cone. Make sure they're clean. _____________________________________________________ Sliced bread, the greatest thing since the 1911. | |||
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| Member |
1. The OP said the gun worked fine, it was cleaned and put it away, and now it binds. - This bit of information lends itself to the most likely scenario of something gumming up the action. 2. The easiest thing to screw up on a Smith and Wesson is screwing with the ejector rod. You need to know how to do it correctly. Removing the ejector rod is not needed for even a detail cleaning. The ejector rod on any modern Smith should not be coming loose regularly. | |||
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| Little ray of sunshine  |
If it worked before and is frozen now, I'll bet a dollar that the lubricant has gummed up or dried into a sort of shellac, like many others said. Shoot some gun scrubber or carb cleaner in there. Into the action and all in and around the crane and ejector rod. Let it work and do it again. I bet it dissolves the crud. Then use a good oil. Don't take anything apart unless you know how to do it without boogering up your screws and sideplate. Read about how to remove the sideplate unless you actually know how to do it. (No prying.) The crane and cylinder aren't aren't hard to get out, as described above. But make sure you have good and well-fitted screw drivers. I bought an otherwise lovely 3" model 66 that someone who didn't know what they were doing took apart. Many of the screws were boogered and the mook even scratched the sideplate with a screwdriver that slipped. Saved me some money, but . . .This message has been edited. Last edited by: jhe888, The fish is mute, expressionless. The fish doesn't think because the fish knows everything. | |||
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Raptorman |
Spray remoil down in it with the hammer back. SOAK it. Not my first rodeo with a gummed up revolver. ____________________________ Eeewwww, don't touch it! Here, poke at it with this stick. | |||
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| Web Clavin Extraordinaire |
Blasted it with some Rem Oil and some other solvents and let it sit and then spun the cylinder repeatedly to work it all out. Got it spinning regularly and the DA pull is back to normal, although I think there's still a bit in there because I can detect a bit of drag on one or two chambers. I didn't have any really caustic stuff like carb cleaner, so I'll get some of that and give it another whirl in the future. Thanks for the advice! ---------------------------- Chuck Norris put the laughter in "manslaughter" Educating the youth of America, one declension at a time. | |||
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| Not really from Vienna |
Oat-just take it out. It isn't hard to do. Here's a link to a video. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lu90aHmUUkg | |||
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