Thinking of a PPK which are now made in Arkansas, have any of you seen first hand the black and blued versions, as well as stainless for that matter. If so which in your opinion is the most attractive? I prefer traditional blued guns but if they don't do them well I think I'd lean toward stainless or black stainless. Is the blued one, blued over stainless (if that's even possible)? It won't get carried or a lot of use so ultimate durability isn't a high priority.

Edit; Even though some vendors show stainless, black stainless, and blue, I'm thinking "blue" may just be the black stainless because on Walther's site they only show stainless and black. https://waltherarms.com/firearms

This message has been edited. Last edited by: ridewv, November 18, 2023 11:09 AM

I purchased a black, PPK/S in the spring. It was the current Arkansas vintage. The pistol had terrible light primer strikes, out of the box and was replaced by Walther, per warranty. The replacement was marginally better but also suffered light strikes. It went back to the factory and was returned to me, six weeks later, with several new parts. Still, unreliable ignitions. I dumped it. Regarding the black finish, the factory told me it is a black melonite applied over stainless. It is very durable and attractive. Too bad the guns are plagued with unsatisfactory performance, as I learned from others who'd given upon on their Arkansas PPK/S pistols. I'd steer well clear of this model, in its current production.

Isn't the newer PPK/S made in Germany?

Edited to add: After looking it up I see that I am only partially right. The slides are made in Germany.

My understanding is the slides for both PPK and S are manufactured in Germany, with everything else including assembly, done in Arkansas.

I'd go with stainless....

My German-made .380 Interarms PPK/S has a 17# DA pull and a gawd awful sharp recoil. If that’s not been fixed I’d advise against a PPK.

I like my SIG P238 sooo much better! Neither of those problems, and its slide is much easier to rack.

The DA is heavy. The beavertail tang has sharp edges that cut into the web of the hand with sustained shooting. This was not "slide bite" but a lacerating effect from recoil. The answer is to wear a glove or position a bandage, in advance. Given its $850+ MSRP, the .380 PP series Walthers should be avoided.

Find one from the early 1970's or a Ranger manufactured one from the 80's.

quote:

Regarding the black finish, the factory told me it is a black melonite applied over stainless.

Maybe it's all about the amount of iron used in different SS formulas, but S&W had a corrosion problem with Melonite over their stainless steel slides with Gen1 M&Ps. Given contact with certain environmental conditions their stainless would easily corrode, reacting with the Melonite rather than the finish acting as a neutral coating, or as a coating that protects the underlying metal.

S&W reverted to a nitride coating for their 2.0 slides, similar to what SIG does with their stainless slides.

I went with stainless.



I added a threaded adapter. It looks neat with the fake Sig Arms suppressor.

I have 5, 3 are the latest ppk/s .22 which have run perfectly the finish says black on the box. I also have one in nickel finish . I also have a nickel ppk in .380 James Bond gun, I don't shoot it much maybe 1 box in the last year, The ppk has a shorter grip then the ppk/s so with my larger hands it's a little short for me but I just learn to hold it differently.

the wife has a ppk/s that's the old German model with the little brown cardboard box. that pistol was the one that started the buying of the other 4 wife daughter and I just enjoyed shooting it so much that I decided we need a few more. I really like the way they look and feel just a very fun all around gun to own.

Samps experience makes me a little hesitant but I haven't ruled out one yet. I have a PPS manufactured in W Germany, actually across the border in France, so I'm aware of the heavy double action and snappy recoil. I just always wanted the slightly smaller PPK version but the price for a nice older ones are high and I was hoping the newer ones from Walther Arkansas would function well.

Stick has yours functioned reliably or has it been problematic?

Thanks XLT.

My experience with the .22lr PPK/S is satisfactory. They are built by Umarex, overseas-- not assembled in Arkansas like the .380s. The DA pull is crazy heavy, well beyond what my trigger scale will measure, but in SA it is a pleasant and accurate plinker. I've had no feed/function problems with my .22 and they do not cause hand lacerations. They are constructed from a cheap metal, not stainless steel. In my opinion, at its low price point, the .22lr is the only currently manufactured PPK/S to buy.

Thanks Sam's. I knew the .22's were sourced from Umarex, as are some other brands 22's replicating centerfires. I already have some nice shooting .22 so I'm not interested in a .22 resembling a 1911, PP, etc.

Buy a P232 or a Bersa Thunder instead is my advice.

I’ve owned both at one time and both were great. Have never heard anyone say anything positive about the PPK here in 15+ years.

I had a P232, blued, alloy frame version, and in hind site probably should have kept it. But my interest now is in Walther's PP series.

quote:

Originally posted by ridewv:
Samps experience makes me a little hesitant but I haven't ruled out one yet. I have a PPS manufactured in W Germany, actually across the border in France, so I'm aware of the heavy double action and snappy recoil. I just always wanted the slightly smaller PPK version but the price for a nice older ones are high and I was hoping the newer ones from Walther Arkansas would function well.

Stick has yours functioned reliably or has it been problematic?

Thanks XLT.

Depends on the ammo and set up. Suppressed (with a real can) it can be a bit finicky but with some subsonic ammo it runs ok. It LOVES 40+gr supersonic ammo and will eat that all day long but that kinda defeats the point when you’re trying to be quiet.

Overall it’s been a good little 22.

Do you plan on shooting it suppressed? If not you should be fine with good ammo.

No not suppressed.

I’ve had good luck with mine. Just stick with hotter 22lr and it should run just fine.

Oh no, not .22. I'm interested in .380. Actually I wish Walther offered it in .32 but they don't so 380 it is.