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No, not like Bill Clinton |
I bought a 92X performance the other day and had a nice range visit yesterday, very sweet shooter Anyway, as I was cleaning it I saw gunk under the locking block and pulled it out. Not realizing it's not suppose to come out without removing the pin holding the retainer in place, I couldn't get it back in. I didn't have a small enough punch, so I bought an Irwin set that has a 1/16 punch in it. I also ordered a locking block kit today from Wilson just because I tried the 1/16 punch when I got home and it is just bending, it's one of the longer ones. I gave up thinking it might be smaller than 1/16 and I didn't want to ruin anything So, does anyone know what size this pin is? Where can I get a quality set of stubbier punches? Link to Wilson https://shopwilsoncombat.com/B...ies/productinfo/786/ Pic of gun that is now in pieces | ||
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Member |
I’ve never removed a locking block like that. If it came out without removing plunger are you sure you can’t get in back in the same way? I’ve removed a lot of pins on a Beretta and I think the6 are all metric so whatever mm is close to 5/16’s would be my uneducated guess. Nice gun btw. Edited. I just tried this, there is no way I could remove the block with the plunger in place. I got it jammed over to the side pretty good is about all lol. | |||
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Member |
Every once in a while, you will encounter an M92 that you can remove the locking block without removing the plunger. If it came out, you should be able to get it back in. If you remember which side it came out from, try inserting it back in that way. It should go back in without hardly any force, it is just a matter of angling it just right. I own a 92 myself that I can remove the locking block from without removing the plunger. BTW, the plunger retaining pin should not require much force to drive out as well, be careful so you don't damage a very nice pistol. | |||
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Prepared for the Worst, Providing the Best |
If it came out, it will go back in. You just have to manipulate it the right way. Keep trying...don't risk breaking your gun unnecessarily (that thing is a beauty, by the way!)...especially if the pin is in there that tight. Despite my username, my experience with the 92 platform is limited to a couple of examples, but on mine I can remove and reinstall the block without removing the plunger. In fact, the only time I've ever had the plunger out was when my original locking block cracked and I had to replace with the new style, which uses a different plunger design. Even after the replacement, I can still remove my locking block without removing the pin and plunger. If you absolutely cannot get it back in and decide you need to use a punch, they make starter punches with a shorter shank to help reduce the chance of bending. I have a set from Grace USA that I got from either Midway or Brownells. They've served me well. | |||
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Member |
I wish i could help. It should go back in if you brought it out. I apply a little grease to mine and leave it at that. Every cleaning i wipe that locking piece as dry as i can and apply some clean grease. I havent ever removed it. | |||
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Member |
I read about the evolution of locking blocks. How the radiused shoulder would save the old blocks from failing etc. It makes sense but I have an old 92 F with a square as hell locking block shoulder, it’s 35 years old, not a huge volume gun and it looks fine. I bought a bunch of gen 3 (?) spares for the inevitable fail and they all still sit in my spares kit. | |||
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Diablo Blanco |
As to the punches, are you using specific roll pin punches? I have bent many punches trying to remove stubborn roll pins and ruined many roll pins as well. The little ball bearing at the tip of the roll pin punch keeps the punch correctly positioned to drive it out. That would be my only suggestion if you’re not already using them. _________________________ "An appeaser is one who feeds a crocodile - hoping it will eat him last” - Winston Churchil | |||
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No, not like Bill Clinton |
Thanks for the reply's. I will try again to get it back in place, if not, I'm bringing out the punches again Ordered a set of roll pin punches from Amazon | |||
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Nature does not hurry, yet everything is accomplished |
I have at least one Beretta where the locking block can fall out. As others noted you should be able to put it back without having to disassemble anything. If you do want to remove the pin I recommend a 1.5mm roll pin punch. | |||
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E tan e epi tas |
All my Berettas, especially after some miles on them, will have the locking block slide out now and then fairly easily when I am cleaning. The first time I had some difficulty getting it back in place but once you get the hang of it, its no big thing and it has never caused me any issues. You should NOT have to disassemble anything, just wiggle it back in. Take care, shoot safe "Guns are tools. The only weapon ever created was man." | |||
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No, not like Bill Clinton |
Alrighty, I came home and fiddled with it and got it back together after a few minutes Now I have to get the hand guards back on a Colt Hbar I bought yesterday. I never had a problem with these and thought it was stupid to own a tool to do the job. I have regerts | |||
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Prepared for the Worst, Providing the Best |
Good work! Glad to hear you got it back in there! As to the handguards, try using the handles of a large pair of channel-lock pliers (preferably a set with insulated grips to avoid marring the gun) to compress the D-Ring and pop the handguard back in. They basically work the same way as the specialty tool, but it's something most folks are more likely to have lying around the house. | |||
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Military Arms Collector |
The hole is 1.5mm so often you'll find the 1/16" punch to be slightly oversized, especially on a new gun. If you have a lathe you can grind down your 1/16" punch slightly for clearance. | |||
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