I have a nice no-dash 36 and was wondering what the consensus is for a limited diet of +P. I’ve read plenty of commentary on the subject. Obviously, I don’t want to damage this old beauty so I’m turning to the collective.

I can't see that being a problem, I do it with mine. From what I have researched, S&W states it's ok to shoot +p rounds in an all steel revolver made after 1955 but not to do so in older guns but take that with a grain of salt. I wouldn't give it a steady diet. SAAMI specs have changed over the years many times and depending where you look/research, you will get different statements but from the most recent I believe 17,oo0 psi is max. Some +p now is only 18-18,500.

My little gun is not a range gun, as it is not fun to shoot as you know, so it doesn't see a lot of rounds through it but makes a great hideaway gun and a few rounds of +p is what I use in it to check function/accuracy.

If you are concerned, there are many good standard pressure rounds that will work fine with it.

According to my reading over the years, S&W OK's +P in an all-steel revolver new enough to have a model number (circa 1957). Your hand will give out long before the gun will.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: egregore,

If the 642/442/637 aluminum air weights can handle +p, I don't see why a steel model 36 couldn't, especially if it's not a steady diet of them.

Thanks, this was the reassurance I was hoping for. This is a very nice late 50’s 36 and I want to enjoy it but not break it.

If you're looking for a self-protection load, try an inverted hollow-based lead wadcutter loaded to a standard .38Spl level. I used it, rather than +P, after hearing the results of a self-defense shooting on a Chicago subway station many years ago. One of the cops who responded to the shooting said the perp looked like he had taken a .410 gauge shotgun hit to the belly. No-doubt an exaggeration, but still a very effective problem solver.

Smith & Wesson said years ago that the 36 was up to the +P pressures, but in that same era Colt was telling us to stick with standard-pressure loads for the Detective Special. I had one of each. I suspect S&W was either betting on lower round counts in the 36, or ready to do more frequent repairs when they had the parts available.

What benefit is there to shooting +P in that gun?

If you want 44mag recoil buy a 44 mag or a .357 Magnum.

+P isn't extra killeriffic.

I don't beat the shit out of my guns.

quote:

Originally posted by gearhounds:
I have a nice no-dash 36 and was wondering what the consensus is for a limited diet of +P. I’ve read plenty of commentary on the subject. Obviously, I don’t want to damage this old beauty so I’m turning to the collective.

If you go over to the Smith & Wesson forum (which was formerly owned by Parabellum) you'll find multiple threads on this subject that run five pages or more. If you read through them all you will find all the posts will fall into one of three categories:

1) No problem
2) No way
3) Why bother

I personally fall into the why bother category. There are still plenty of "cosmetically challenged" J-frames on the market for reasonable prices. Get one of those and practice with +P to your hearts content. Save your no-dash Model 36 as an heirloom or just for carry. The ten or so +P rounds you shoot annually to ensure function should hurt it.

My goal wasn’t to go out and shoot a metric shot-ton of +p ammo through the gun, merely to determine if it was potentially damaging to it. It’s not for a “steady diet” approach; it was to figure out if it could handle a few cylinders safely here and there. I have magnums and a plenty strong .38 (SP101, GP100, a nice 640). More for informational value and reassurance that I wasn’t ruining a nice old classic revolver.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: gearhounds,

quote:

Originally posted by LDB:
What benefit is there to shooting +P in that gun?

The bullet.
Most hollowpoints and "service wadcutters" are +P.

I didn't ask clearly. What benefit is there to shooting +P in that specific gun rather than reserving +P for any number of the umpteen thousands of other guns similar and even more designed for +P and saving that specific gun for light/fun shooting?

S&W published a chart about 20 to 25 years ago showing which revolvers were approved by them for +P, and the 36 did not make the grade at that time. I have a copy stored in a thumb drive somewhere, and have posted it before on both the S&W and Sig forums, several years ago. I am sure that list is currently out of date. If I come across it will repost.

I very much like S&W revolvers as long as they do not have the stupid lock and would love to add a 60 to my harem. Everything I've heard has said that +P is fine.

quote:

Originally posted by stiab:
S&W published a chart about 20 to 25 years ago showing which revolvers were approved by them for +P, and the 36 did not make the grade at that time. I have a copy stored in a thumb drive somewhere, and have posted it before on both the S&W and Sig forums, several years ago. I am sure that list is currently out of date. If I come across it will repost.

this.

the 36 no-dash did not make the list.

I had the same list but could not find it. I believe it was a page in the user's manuals in the late 80's or so.

ETA: Found it in the version of the manual dated 4/87. No +P for the model 36, and chart indicates it exceeds pressure and could create a dangerous condition.

To me, that ends the discussion. I trust S&W as the source of truth on the matter.

What do they know anyway. Heck. Might as well give it a limited diet of +P+ now and then too. What can it hurt?

quote:

Originally posted by LDB:
Might as well give it a limited diet of +P+ now and then too.

S&W did say +P+ tested OK for this J frame, as the small print in the ad says...

I think there’s enough confusing info to where I’ll stick to standard pressure fodder for this oldster. It’s a nice piece and even breaking a small part might be problematic repairing it. My 640 no dash will fill the role of battering my hand if I get the itch

quote:

Originally posted by gearhounds:
I think there’s enough confusing info to where I’ll stick to standard pressure fodder for this oldster. It’s a nice piece and even breaking a small part might be problematic repairing it. My 640 no dash will fill the role of battering my hand if I get the itch

Nice, I sold both of my 640s when downsizing, would have kept one if it had the +P+ marking, which means it is an early one.

my 642 airweight (bought new in 2003) .38 Special has +P+ allowance but I have never shot that through it and don't think I ever will...not even happy with +P...standard .38 Special is just fine...

Good luck with yours

Bill