My backlog of projects is getting awfully thick.

Now I have to build my own 1911. This will happen. I'll put it in the pipeline, and give it about 3 years or so.

But, yeah. It's a bit more whittling than putting an AR together, but now I have to.

Nothing wrong with that!

I remember seeing a video of a class where you get a box of 1911 parts and build it all yourself, but can't find that exact video.

I would love to do that. One day. I modified a Sprinfield Mil-Spec to fit a beavertail, replaced the hammer and sear, the trigger, etc, but it was my first time doing any sort of metal work. Came out just fine, function-wise, but I wish I'd gone back and cleaned everything up so it looked nice and polished.

Still, that didn't stop a friend from eagerly buying it.

The experience was worth the money in parts that I didn't attempt to make up the difference for.

Damn it, Arc, now you've got me thinking about a TRP or a Dan Wesson again.

May the ghost of John M. Browning be with you.

Sounds like a fun project. I've done a number of install and fitting chores on my 1911's since my first one in 1972. Don't consider myself an expert, but gained a good understanding of the design and functioning.

IMO, the 1911 is a study in elegant design simplicity. With a little bit of study, it's readily apparent what has to be done.

By today's standards, some may consider it an over-the-hill design. However, not bad for a pistol designed over 100 years ago.

I built a 9mm 1911 a few years back. I found fitting the thumb safety to be the biggest pita, and I had to screw a bit with the extractor and recoil spring, otherwise use quality parts and it should be a pretty straight forward build. I used a Fosters Industries frame and and Caspian internals with a Fusion slide and internals. I had Fusion fit the barrel to the slide. I topped the build off with a pair of F/O sights and grips fabricated by Spectre here on the forum. It all started with a snake scale looking main spring housing. It shoots like a dream, recoil is nothing, and its very accurate. When I can free up some cash, I would next like to do a long slide either in .45acp or maybe 10mm. Its a super clean looking build imho, Ill post pix later when I get home.

I bought 3 Les Baer frames and special ordered their slides as I didnt want the front slide serrations. Bomars were still available back then. Barrels by Kart and 1 GI High Standard which had such a mirror bore I felt it was every bit the quality of Match grade barrels. Man there are a world of parts out there.

Just last week there was a guy on arf.com selling a LB frame.

When I actually go for it, I'd like something like the LB monolith as far as frame/slide. And I'd also be tempted to go longslide. We'll see.

Agreed, the Monolith is the way to go. The extended dust cover beneath a 6in. slide would look great.

Fusion in Florida has every thing you need!

quote:

Originally posted by Tommydogg:
Fusion in Florida has every thing you need!

He was super helpful as well.

I have been kicking around the idea of a DIY 1911. IIRC, Cylinder & Slide has prefitted trigger kits and other parts that would make the build less hassle. What intimidates me is tuning the extractor.

^^^ I've tuned my own extractors (internal) on my commercial 1911's for decades. Pretty simple.

Remove slide. Take a loaded .45 ball cartridge and slide it up under the extractor hook in its normal position. The cartridge should not fall out if the slide is gently wiggled. Neither should it take a lot of force to slide it out.

The extractor is gently bent using a vise and either a light hammer or vise grips. Go slow. Bend a little (very little), reassemble and re-test. Patience. There may be some Internet stuff out there you could check.

Probably harder to explain than actually do.

I'm going to do the same thing but I'm starting with a cheap build to build my actual experience. I got a Rock Island frame in trade and Sarco is shipping me a parts kit so we'll see how it goes. If this one is successful I'll probably follow it up with a Caspian build.

I found a box of 2011 parts for about $800. There was enough parts to build a full gun, plus a few extra parts from a race gun that eventually fit together and made a nice shooting 38.

quote:

Originally posted by YooperSigs:
I have been kicking around the idea of a DIY 1911. IIRC, Cylinder & Slide has prefitted trigger kits and other parts that would make the build less hassle. What intimidates me is tuning the extractor.

The hammer and sear I got for my Dominator are from C&S, very nice parts. I'll be looking to them.

quote:

Originally posted by Anubismp:
I'm going to do the same thing but I'm starting with a cheap build to build my actual experience. I got a Rock Island frame in trade and Sarco is shipping me a parts kit so we'll see how it goes. If this one is successful I'll probably follow it up with a Caspian build.

It seems that there is a sweet spot for parts, because inexpensive ones might be too loose, or so out that they need more work. Meanwhile, some expensive parts are intentionally made with more material.

It's pretty cool that there is such a wide range of choices.

Years ago (80’s?), lurking in a LGS I found a nekked Springfield Armory 1911 frame. It had the plunger tube staked and the grip screw inserts but that was all. Exercising poor judgement, I told the counter guy that I would love to have it if I could find a slide. He went to the back and came out with a stripped Series 70, Gold Cup National Match slide. Over several months, using mostly Wilson over the counter parts, I built a 1911.

I learned from calling Springfield Inc. about my Dominator frame, that in the early 80's they were offering frames by themselves.

They were made by Imbel.

I keep threatening to do a %80 1911.

I don't really care about the "ghost gun" aspect or whatever. Just something for me to learn the guts of the platform for a reasonable cost.

https://1911builders.com/

quote:

Originally posted by arcwelder76:
I learned from calling Springfield Inc. about my Dominator frame, that in the early 80's they were offering frames by themselves.

They were made by Imbel.

The WW prefix serial numbered frames were made in Brazil. My frame had a NM serial number indicating it was made in USA.