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Originally posted by DeputyCG: Now when I fully cock the revolver it locks almost perfectly (almost no movement) but on double action, there is definitely some movement. Is there a possibility that I reassembled it incorrectly?

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Originally posted by SIGfourme:
Did you put the correct screw in to hold the crane/cylinder in place? This screw has a detent to hold the crane/cylinder in place.
It's the screw above the trigger.

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Originally posted by stiab:

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Originally posted by DeputyCG: Now when I fully cock the revolver it locks almost perfectly (almost no movement) but on double action, there is definitely some movement. Is there a possibility that I reassembled it incorrectly?

Check it this way and see how it is: Unload the gun, cock the hammer, then lower it with your thumb while pulling the trigger all the way back, and maintain that position. Now check the cylinder.

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Originally posted by DeputyCG:

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Originally posted by stiab:

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Originally posted by DeputyCG: Now when I fully cock the revolver it locks almost perfectly (almost no movement) but on double action, there is definitely some movement. Is there a possibility that I reassembled it incorrectly?

Check it this way and see how it is: Unload the gun, cock the hammer, then lower it with your thumb while pulling the trigger all the way back, and maintain that position. Now check the cylinder.

When I do that the cylinder locks up perfectly. I assume the revolver is functional?

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Originally posted by Scooter123:
Lets clarify some of the terms being mentioned.

First, End Shake is the Front to Rear travel of the cylinder when the cylinder is closed and should be checked using shims between the barrel and face of the cylinder with the revolver NOT cocked. The procedure is to apply pressure to hold the cylinder forward and find the valve shim that just slides into place. Then hold the cylinder to the rear and find the shim that will just slide in between cylinder and barrel. The total End Shake is the difference between the thicker and thinner shims and should be less than 0.003 inch. Please read that procedure again a time or two because many people get this difference measurement confused with the B/C Gap. BTW the B/C gap is measured with the cylinder held to the rear.

Side to side travel is normally not measured. Because the S&W is a Combat Revolver and designed to function after being dropped in a muddy trench. This means that there is a designed in CLEARANCE between the cylinder stop and cylinder and this will produce some free play. As a result there is some noticeable free play when the revolver is uncocked. This free play will tighten up considerably when the revolver is cocked because that engages the Hand with the ratchets and this actually will shift the cylinder towards the cylinder stop face. However when full cocked there is a small amount of remaining clearance and if you get real fussy you may see a tiny bit of movement in the cylinder. In my experience the total movement at full cock can range from no visible movement up to perhaps the thickness of a thin sheet of paper. If there is more movement than that I would recommend you have a gunsmith give it a looking over because wear to the hand will result in increased movement at full cock. Note when the hammer is down the free ply will typically fall between 1/64 and 1/32 inch.

Having read your reply's I suspect that what you are seeing has always been there, you just noticed it now because you were looking your revolver over closely.