Page 1 2
Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
Member |
Just an FYI: If the Wolff mainspring you installed in your 19-3 is a ribbed one, the strain screw may not be long enough to insure 100% reliable ignition. Might be OK so try it first with several brands of ammo (primers). If not, you can us an 8x1/2" set screw and shorten to proper length, then Loc-Tite (purple or blue) it in place. Adios, Pizza Bob NRA Benefactor Member | |||
|
| Member |
I'm also a K frame fan. Once I finish rearming with this Gen 5 family I'll restart my hunt for another 19 -3 with a 4 inch barrel. For now I'm content with my 4 inch 13-4. | |||
|
King of Goodness |
I bought a reduced power and standard power mainspring as a backup...just in case... Went with a #15 rebound spring as well... | |||
|
fugitive from reality |
I've been having a problem with a 625 and I think you just solved it for me.  Oh yea, nice 19-3.  _____________________________ 'I'm pretty fly for a white guy'. | |||
|
| King of Goodness |
So...a couple of things... I was informed by my long time gun guru that the finish on the Model 19-3 is indeed nickel, even though I asked the shop to hard chrome the piece. I don't have my hard chromed P7M8 to compare it to anymore, but it seems legit with the yellowish tone when put under a bright light. Second, and far more more disturbing, though it shot beautifully for 50 rounds, the cylinder became increasingly difficult to open...to the point now that is it simply locked tight as a drum. It will cycle and drop the hammer just fine, but I can't open it up. I haven't stripped it yet...looking for some thoughts on what may be wrong. TIA | |||
|
Not really from Vienna |
It's possible that the ejector rod has become loose. This keeps the cylinder release from working. Try pushing the ejector rod end latch (under the barrel) forward with a small screwdriver while you push the thumb piece. After you get the cylinder open, please don't use pliers to tighten the ejector rod. Brownells sells a special little wrench https://www.brownells.com/guns...rench-prod26662.aspx for the job, but you can get by with a wooden clothes pin clamped onto the rod VERY GENTLY in a vise. Put empty cartridges in the chambers (to take the strain off the little pins that hold the extractor in place) while you carefully turn the cylinder to tighten the rod. Be very careful not to bend the rod. The threads are exceedingly fine and easily damaged so go easy. If you ever do have reason to remove the sideplate on that revolver, be aware that it's easy to botch up the nickel around the sideplate when you remove or replace it. So easy I do my best not to open up a nickel finished revolver. | |||
|
| Member |
First, yes, it was originally nickel-plated. Mine was. Edited because my reading comprehension is off -- Arfmel is right. When it was reassembled, the ejector rod wasn't tight enough. -------------------------- Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats. -- H L Mencken I always prefer reality when I can figure out what it is. -- JALLEN 10/18/18 | |||
|
| King of Goodness |
Damned if you didn't nail it! Awesome, dood...thanks...  | |||
|
| Powered by Social Strata | Page 1 2 |
 | Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|
© SIGforum 2024