My LGS is going out of business and I have been buying from then for almost 50 years. I have become a good friend of the family. I thought I should buy one more gun before they close the doors and I have wanted a 365 for some time and decided today was the day. I bought the original model.

Any suggestions on break-in from you experienced 365 owners? I have both 115 and 125 grain ammunition on hand. What about lubrication? This is the first new Sig I have ever had. I got the others well broken in.

I am looking forward to some warmer weather soon and the chance to do a lot of shooting outside. I can go inside a time or two if I have to.

As far as I know there’s no break in required. It should be reliable right out of the box. At least all of mine have been.

Have you shot a P365 yet? I hadn’t when I bought my first and I was absolutely blown away at how soft shooting and accurate that little gun is. I use oil on mine and haven’t had an issues. Typically I use grease on my metal Sigs but I’ve stick to oil on the polymer framed guns. Mine has eaten everything I’ve fed it, including 115, 124 and 147gr ammo with a mix of ball and HP. It’s a great little gun. Enjoy!

Got one when it first came out - no break-in was needed.

Hope you enjoy it as much as I do - a pocket pistol that is actually fun to take to the range!?!? Who knew?

Cleaning and lube - same as all my SIGs - Break-free CLP for cleaning and lube, grease on the rails and a quick spritz of Ballistol on the outside as a final touch.

A light application of oil is all you need. Then, shoot hell out of it. Mine has liked everything I've fed it, but does best with faster 115gr bullets.

I've had the same P365 for over two years now...upwards of 2000 rounds through it with so few malfunctions that I honestly can't remember one. Mine feeds anything I've tried, from 115 -124 gr FMJ's & HP's, through my reloads featuring 124 gr LSWC's. It does favor the heavier (124-125 gr) loads with both jacketed and lead alloy bullets. I haven't tried super heavy, 147 gr types as I prefer the higher speed, lower weight types.

Mine needed no break-in, whatsoever...but I'll say that the trigger has improved since it was new. Out of the box, it wasn't bad...about like a Glock having a really good day, IMHO. Magazines were initially stiff to load, but have loosened up somewhat. I'm 76 now with arthritis in both thumbs and had no trouble loading them without a "loader".

Shooting the gun was and continues to be a pleasant surprise. It handles like a bigger, duty size gun, with accuracy to match.

The sights are outstanding. Mine has that big green dot front with the tritium center, with a tritium dot equipped rear. I don't know if Sig has changed that set up, but for me, it's perfect. Like many if not all Sigs, the gun is sighted for an impact point that's in the center of the front sight dot, at 10-15 yds when shot from my Weaver Stance. Personally, I'd like it a bit higher but have accepted this for my use.

If you're still with me, by now you'd guess that I'm a big fan. I've carried a handgun since 1970, through two tours in Vietnam, and as a civilian and hobbyist and the Sig 365 is the best personal CC weapon I've ever shot. It's small enough for easy concealment, with good ergonomics, great sights, outstanding accuracy, and a capacity that's revolutionized the small CC gun portion of the industry. For my use, it has it all.

HTH's Rod...

I was a Classic Sig guy since the early 90's. My Son bought a new 365 a few years ago. I did not want to like it, after all it is not a Classic Sig.

We went to the range and he begged me to try it. Ok, I am a little spoiled.

IMO, the 365 is a really excellent handgun.

When my son moved to San Francisco, he left the 365 with me for safe keeping.

I use oil and any ammunition I have on hand. It has been flawless.

I wipe the brown preservative off everything with an oiled rag and then lightly oil the rails and barrel-to-slide interfaces like the front edge of the hood and barrel.

I usually have a better experience shooting heavier 124gr out of new striker-fired guns. It just seems to give me less trouble until the springs are worn in after 100 or so rounds before shooting lighter 115gr loads.

Those P365s are addictive. I started with a P365XL and now I have several, including a P365-380.

My P365 has over a 1,000 logged rounds between 115,124 and 147 gr TMJ, FMJ and JHP. Primarily American Eagle, SPEER Lawman and SPEER Gold Dot G2s. Mostly normal pressure, but some +P. No malfunctions at all. While my data and what the others posted here indicate that the 365 is reliable out of the box, I highly recommend running a couple boxes of ammo to include your carry rounds IF you intend to carry your Pistol for self defense. if you are just using it as a fun gun, bang away without fear.

The reason I recommend breaking it in before carrying is to ensure POI/POA with your chosen round (I don't know what SIG sights them in with at the factory) and to verify that the pistol wasn't "the last one made on Friday or the First one made on Monday".

I have one I picked a recently. It's perfectly reliable, sights are regulated for a Combat hold with 147 grain bullets. On my sample the rear sight needs to be shifted to the right by 1/32 inch. BTW, I know shooting left is pretty common, in my case I have a P229, 2 P239's P290RS, 2 Ruger LC9S Pros, an Astra 300, Springfield XDM and 4 1911 pistols and none of them shoot left. So yeah it is the pistol.

Finally the trigger in the P365 is MUD with some Gravel added in. Now I will grant that I've been spoiled by some pistols with exceptional triggers so the bar is set pretty high. However the trigger in my P365 is by FAR the worst trigger I've ever shot with. I've been told that there are kit's for these triggers and one day I may try one out.

Congratulations, Max. I have owned, up to this point, 5 or 6 P365s I can't even remember the exact number. All are original, except one SAS. Some were cleaned prior to first range time. Some were taken directly from the gun shop to the range without cleaning. One was even accidentally dropped into icy water. Every single one of them has been absolutely problem free, with so many different ammo brands, weights and configurations. As you can probably tell, there is no such a thing as "break in" procedurethis gun. Just shoot the heck out of it. It's a phenomenal little gun.

Congrats on the purchase. No break in for any of my P365's, just a little oil and shoot away.

I have:
3 standard P365's, one of them in an XL grip module.
3 P365XL's
2 P365 X Macro's
1 P365 .380

Between all of them I have 10K rounds through them. My first P365 with a 3 digit s/n has over 5K rounds through it.

If you can, try and pick up a Wilson Combat frame (sometimes on sale for around $55) and their tungsten weights. Made it a lot more comfortable shooter for me.

Since November 2022, I have picked up:

1. 365 (now on Wilson Combat OD Green frame)
2. 365X Macro (now on Wilson Combat XL tan frame with Holosun red dot)
3. 365XL (now on a gray Wilson Combat XL frame).

I have a couple 15 round and 17 round magazines set up for both the 365 and 365XL frames.

The gun requires no break in. Just lube and go. The mags? Well that's another question entirely. My thumb still hurts from remembered pain of those first mag loading torture sessions, performed without the benefit of a Maglula (because I forgot the blessed damn thing on my workbench).

They had some bugs in them to work out the first year or so and I held off for a long time but did get one a few months back and its been flawless , I really like it shoots dead on.

For one more anecdotal point of evidence, my P365 has been flawless shooting anything I've loaded in it.

I'm a classic sig fan, and I generally avoid their polymer pistols but the 365 was kind of a revolutionary gun and I had to get one. It's a fantastic gun in it's own right, and it's so good it spurred all the other manufacturers to get off their asses and improve their guns as well.

Somehow I ended up with 6 of them. No break in. I took at least 2 of them directly from the sales counter right to their indoor range. These guns are nearly perfect as is in their category.

I too eventually ended up replacing all the grip modules with Wilson Combat because they are just better.

I have a Glock 43, Glock 43x, and SIG P365. I carry the 365 more than the others. It has the best compromise between concealability and magazine capacity.

Welcome to the fold!
I've had mine for four years now. Once I ran 400 rounds through it to ensure its reliability, I considered it good to go...it's been my EDC ever since.
I'm sure you will love it.

Before you do anything else, clean off the preservative coating and then lube the P365.

The quality of the finishing of the P365 series varies considerably and there can be some reliability issues because of poor finishing.

The stripper rail on my P365 was so rough that it put deep scratches into the shell cases in the magazine and it was very difficult to retract the slide over a magazine loaded to capacity. It felt extremely gritty while retracting the slide The solution was to polish the stripper rail by wet sanding it. I started with 220 grit silicon dioxide wet or dry sandpaper and finished with 2,000 grit.

On the other hand, the stripper rail on my P365XL wasn't too bad and it wasn't very difficult to retract the slide over a magazine loaded to capacity. But I still polished the stripper rail and it did make it slightly easier to retract the slide over a magazine loaded to capacity. Your mileage may vary.

The trigger will likely feel gritty right out of the box. It will become smoother after firing or dry firing the pistol. However, the trigger will be even smoother yet if you polish the trigger linkage bar where it contacts the sear and striker safety lever. Sig uses the edge of a piece of stamped steel to contact the sear and striker safety lever. The edge of the steel is VERY rough. But it only takes a few minutes of hand grinding the contact surface smoother with a diamond whetstone and then following up with some very fine wet or dry sandpaper to polish the contact points on the trigger linkage bar and make the trigger pull even smoother and eliminate the break-in period. You can polish every contact point between the trigger and the sear, but this one rough edge makes up 95% of the roughness. FYI, this polishing does NOT affect the required trigger pull force. It just makes the trigger pull smoother





The guide rods in both my P365 and p365XL were both very rough. You can live with it, or you can polish it smooth.



Also, after firing 500 rounds or so, solvent clean the return spring assembly, and then relubricate it.

The P365 series can sometime have return to battery malfunctions. The problem is caused by excess friction from the left adjacent wall to the breechface, the rough underside of the extractor claw, and the breechface itself. You don't need to polish out every scratch from the breechface. But a little polishing of the breechface with some ultrafine sandpaper will go a long way to reduce the friction of the shellcase sliding over the breechface as it aligns with the firing chamber. The extractor claw can be so sharp that it shaves brass from the shell case. One stroke of a diamond whetstone over the sharp edge of the extractor claw is all that it takes to stop shaving the brass from the shellcases. A little bit of sanding of the underside of the extractor claw will also help reduce unwanted friction.

But do NOT grind the extractor spring shorter!!!! Yes, this will reduce friction and sometimes cure the return to battery problem, but it does so at the expense of reliability of extraction and ejection of the shellcase.

Polishing the beveled leading edge of the extractor claw will make it easier to manually chamber a cartridge. Contrary to what Sig says, you can SAFELY and reliably manually chamber a cartridge through the ejection port. Manual chambering completely eliminates the possibility of bullet setback. If you have a failure to feed malfunction for whatever reason, you can still manually chamber a cartridge and fire in an emergency. This may be your only option in a self defense situation. Sure, you need to manually chamber a round and fire one round at a time, but that is better than being completely unable to fire.

To manually chamber a round, engage the manual safety if you have one.

Retract the slide and lock it rearward.

Point the pistol downward and insert a cartridge into the firing chamber.

Gently ease the slide closed.

Press the rear of the extractor inward, which pivots the extractor claw outward far enough to clear the shellcase rim, and the recoil spring will pull the slide back into battery and be ready to fire.

For anyone that might worry that the extractor claw could break if you accidentally released the slide and it slammed closed, I manually chambered a round and then let the slide slam closed 1,830 times, which is the equivalent of manually chambering a round every day for 5 years. I removed the extractor claw and could not see any signs of damage under a 30X microscope.

When Sig warned against manually chambering a round I asked them if they had done ANY testing whatsoever on manually chambering a P365. They REFUSED to say if they had done ANY testing at all!!!!

You will want to use a magazine loader. Inserting the last round can be very difficult. Most people seem to prefer the Magula Uplula loader. But if you want something cheaper and much smaller, try the Makershot Loader. You can buy them on Amazon for $14.99. I use the Maktershot loader mostly because it's much smaller and actually fits into my pistol lockbox along with my P365XL and 3 spare magazines. The Uplula just wont fit.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: AllenBundy,

quote:

Originally posted by maxwayne:
This is the first new Sig I have ever had.

I love how the OP has been on this forum for 22 years with 5400+ posts and is just now giving in to the impulse of buying a Sig brand new!