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I live on the 7th floor of a condo with 24 hour front desk staff and nighttime security (old guy who walks around). These features help but after my engineering hardwood floor which is not that tick, there is the association solid concrete floor that we are not allowed to drill into. One owns a condo but one still feels like a renter. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Democracy is 2 Wolves & a Lamb debating the lunch menu. Liberty is a well armed Lamb! | |||
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Mine is on basically a cut down horse stall mat with soft pine floors. _________________________________________ I'm all jacked up on Mountain Dew... | |||
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That’s what I used & bolted to the floor. ———- Do not meddle in the affairs of wizards, for thou art crunchy and taste good with catsup. | |||
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No one is going to know if you drill into "your" concrete. A 500lb safe is easy to move with a dolly right out of your apartment. Consider it your public duty to keep the guns away from criminals. I also used hockey pucks. ““My mother always used to say: The older you get, the better you get, unless you’re a banana.” —Betty White | |||
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He started the thread to find ways to protect the hardwood floor. I'm pretty sure 3/8" lag screws are going to mess it up pretty nicely. | |||
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With all the concern about in other threads about foam inserts in oem cases absorbing moisture, I'd think anything similar under a safe would not be a good idea from a potential rust standpoint. Although that might not be an issue inside a house on wood floors. A 1/4" sheet of plywood or a piece of carpet might be considered. Anything you put under the safe will probably leave some marks on the wood floor. I bought my safes from a local high volume distributor who told me the bottom of the safe is more vulnerable than one might think. It's not uncommon that manufacturers use thinner gauge steel in the bottom. I could imagine a section of foam mat allowing a safe to rock just enough to eventually tip it over. I've moved my 500# safe and my 900# safe by myself using wood dowel rods. It only took a few minutes to leverage one side up enough to slide a few 3/4" dowel rods under them. If people would mind their own damn business this country would be better off. I owe no one an explanation or an apology for my personal opinion. | |||
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The rubber mats described such as those available from Tractor Supply and others are solid rubber. There is minimal porosity. Extremely heavy! | |||
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Do you know the dimensions of those? I could think of uses for similar. If people would mind their own damn business this country would be better off. I owe no one an explanation or an apology for my personal opinion. | |||
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4x6 generally _________________________________________ I'm all jacked up on Mountain Dew... | |||
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I used pink foam board insulation under the hot tub and it held up well. Blue under the water heater. The safe is on TSC rubber stall matt but it is on concrete | |||
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I used oak stair treads under mine... but it’s 1500# ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Live today as if it may be your last and learn today as if you will live forever | |||
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Build a pedestal and bolt the safe on it. You can carpet the pedestal or stain it to match floor. Build the pedestal wider than the door frame. That should deter many of the thieves trying to take the safe out. | |||
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Interesting idea. Thanks. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Democracy is 2 Wolves & a Lamb debating the lunch menu. Liberty is a well armed Lamb! | |||
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