Help! Can not get P225 locking block out of the frame
It wiggles a bit but I can't get it out. I don't want to pry on anything and damage the frame. Any tips? Standing by
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August 04, 2017, 12:09 PM
1KPerDay
Takedown lever is out. Trigger spring off. Trigger pin slot parallel to slide rails and moves a tad when I wiggle it. Trigger moves freely until I lift the front of the locking block. I can lift the front of the block until the tips are above the frame, OR I can lift the rear until there is about 1/8" below the block. But it is pivoting somewhere in the middle, I presume around the trigger pin. Feels like a very solid mechanical stop.
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August 04, 2017, 12:11 PM
GP229
The pistol has to be de-cocked to remove the locking insert.
August 04, 2017, 12:15 PM
1KPerDay
It is, thanks. Any other ideas welcome
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August 04, 2017, 12:29 PM
Il Cattivo
Two dumb questions.
Is the trigger pin properly oriented? The horizontal knurling lines on the left side of the pin should be perfectly parallel to the rails on the frame. I've had to get it pretty close to exactly right to put a locking block in before, and still wiggle the block and the trigger pin a little bit to get it to slide home.
If you lift the front end of the locking block up, can you remove it by simultaneously pulling it up and forward?
August 04, 2017, 12:46 PM
1KPerDay
Not stupid questions thanks for the help. The pin is oriented properly, and I have also tried to move it a little bit with the screwdriver while simultaneously lifting up and forward on the locking block. It won't budge past the limits that I have previously described. Also if I lift forward on the locking block while lifting up on the front of the locking block it still will not move. It's mechanically locked somewhere.This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1KPerDay,
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August 04, 2017, 01:06 PM
GP229
If the "trigger spring" you refer to is the trigger bar spring, you might try putting it back on.
August 04, 2017, 01:22 PM
Mustang-PaPa
Was this gun previously assembled or is this a second attempt at re-assembly?
Are you still able to put the take-down lever back in or is the hole/block mis-aligned about a 1/16"?
August 04, 2017, 02:37 PM
1KPerDay
I've never had this pistol apart but it was a cop trade in. Trying to install a new locking block to maybe diagnose my weird accuracy problems.
I tried removing the trigger bar spring after the block refused to come out first. I will try reinstalling the takedown lever but it appears the block fully seats and the holes align. Will update asap Thanks for all the ideas
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August 04, 2017, 03:03 PM
Mustang-PaPa
Sounds like its hung on the trigger pivot pin. The reason I ask is I've had the trigger pivot pin 180* off when putting the locking block back in and have it hand up like you describe and had to wedge a tool under the locking block and get aggressive with it to get it released but if you can get the take-down lever in then the pins clocked right or someone's hogged the locking block/ trigger pivot pin out to allow for backwards assembly.
August 04, 2017, 03:07 PM
Mustang-PaPa
Also to verify that the grooves or single line cut in the end of the trigger pivot pin are on the left side of the frame?
August 04, 2017, 03:13 PM
MrMcGoo
The locking block may be held in by carbon buildup and/or the slide stop spring and or the position of the trigger bar. Also make sure that ALL of the takedown lever came out as they have been know to fail on the older two piece designs.
Soaking the sides of the locking block in CLP or similar products will probably help with carbon buildup. Then gently pull the slide stop spring back toward the hammer to see if it has broken loose and may be binding.
I am a person with wimpy hand strength. I also hate sticky locking blocks, so I use a very small vice grips to get a hold on the locking block. Be VERY careful not to start a crack in the locking block as they are very expensive to replace. Also, failure of the locking block during shooting can cause major damage and a safety hazard.
Be sure that the hammer is decocked when reinstalling the locking block and the slits in the trigger pivot pin face forward with a level slot on the trigger pivot pin.
Good luck!
Bill
August 04, 2017, 03:33 PM
Baron Flynt
I remember having a hell of a time with this. Once I wiggled the pin around with my other hand, it came right out. It just has to be oriented properly.
August 04, 2017, 04:41 PM
1KPerDay
I'll keep trying. I've destroyed my thumbnail and thumb, tried wedging something under the front and prying the rear with a brass punch while moving the trigger pin and trigger around. Doesn't appear to be carbon as it moves freely up to a solid point. Has to be the trigger pin somehow or the slide stop spring got cocked somehow. That's the only thing I can think of.
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August 04, 2017, 06:27 PM
1KPerDay
Takedown lever went back in slick as you please.
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August 04, 2017, 07:23 PM
SigSentry
Is it somehow bonded to the ejector? Very strange as installation is usually the bugger.
August 04, 2017, 10:36 PM
1KPerDay
Well I don't know what happened but after I removed the disassembly lever again the locking block lifted right out. Weird.
Thanks for all the help.
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August 04, 2017, 10:41 PM
1KPerDay
New block slid right in. Will report if it has any effect on improving accuracy.
--------------------------- My hovercraft is full of eels.
August 05, 2017, 12:28 AM
MrMcGoo
quote:
Originally posted by 1KPerDay: New block slid right in. Will report if it has any effect on improving accuracy.
I suspect that the slide stop spring may have been wedged in just enough to hold the locking block in place. The take down lever apparently got the spring back into place in the old locking block.