Here's the short version: I hired a revolver smith to slick up the action of my stainless GP100, which he did a decent job. He did something however that I didn't ask for, he polished the flats of the hammer and trigger. Because his price was fair and it did look very nice to me personally, I took it home in good faith. After shooting it though, it developed new scruffing and light scrating on the new shiny flats of both pieces. So after researcing it, I measured and bought some shims from the nice owner of triggershims.com. I have since installed shims on the hammer dog, trigger, and hammer pins, so now that problem is solved (the rubbbing).

But now I'd like to re-polish those flats again myself. After watching lots of videos on the net of home gunsmiths polishing their stainless revolvers, all of them were using various grades of sandpaper and mothers mag wheel polish. So to be sure I called Brownells and talked to a gunsmith, and he said he does the same thing. Ok, that's a sanity check for me. BUT, that fellow was very young, I'd say less than 30, though he had full command of the subject. So I don't doubt him at all, but I am wondering if there is an alternate way of doing this with cloth buffers and polishing compounds(s). He said that method is an alternate route to the same result, but he preferred the sandpaper method because of the easy way to achieve good results.

So my question to you guys is, if you could do it either way, using sandpaper and sanding blocks by hand, or the more expensive route of a bench mounted buffer with the proper polishing compounds (for steel in this case), would you have a preference ?

I'd like to get some more opinions on this before I start doing carpentry on these parts, if there better ways to do it, and any pros or cons of alternate methods. Since this is a GP100 and not a Korth, I'm assuming there is more leeway here, but I like to tinker, so I'd like to expand my education on the subject.

Im thinking Dremel tool, vise and buffing attachment and polishing media of your choice.
After all, the Dremel is the universal gun plumbers tool.

I used the sandpaper and mag polish method on my 10/22 trigger and it was fast and easy. Did it quietly on the table top. Didn't have to worry about high-speed tools or inadvertent rounding of any edges. Since your piece was previously polished you may be able to skip the paper and go straight to the polish.

Polishing is done first by removing the imperfection, which means removing down to the depth of the grooves or scratches, then using progressively finer grits to remove subsequent scratches.

If you want a flat surface, it should be done using a flat plate with an abrasive paper over that. Use the finest grit necessary to remove the original scratch, then a finer grit to remove the scratches created by that grit, and so on, getting finer and finer. Using a flat backing to the abrasive paper helps ensure a flat surface. Once you've removed imperfections and moved to the finest grit you intend to use with abrasive paper, you can polish with rouge and a buffer wheel, or small wheel on a dremel.

Depends on the finish you want and how deep the scratches are.
Scotchbrite pads work well and also a rubberized abrasive cone by Cratex that is used on a 1/4" mandrel.

https://www.cratex.com/Product...brasives/Cones/Cones

For polishing --I use Flitz and Dremel buffing wheel. I've polished out the tool marks on gun parts. Just buffing-to make the surface smooth.

Any of the methods that everyone else will work, but a picture of the parts and everyone would be able to tell you what method will work the best.

I clear the frame where it’s scratching the hammer. FLAT POLISH the hammer sides only. Don’t buff!

quote:

Originally posted by Grayguns:
I clear the frame where it’s scratching the hammer. FLAT POLISH the hammer sides only. Don’t buff!

Thank You VERY much Bruce. That's EXACTLY what I will do then. I've alredy secured the correct sized shims to stop the rubbing so I'm pretty stoked about proceeding.

BTW I've said it before here, but my P220 Carry that your shop transformed for me several years ago, called the Comprehensive Carry Package iirc, transformed this gun into a superlative shooter and carry defender. I would have chosen better words than these if I could. It's amazing how all the details of the work your shop perfomed came together to transform a gun that's greater then the sum of its parts.

quote:

Originally posted by SIGfourme:
For polishing --I use Flitz and Dremel buffing wheel. I've polished out the tool marks on gun parts. Just buffing-to make the surface smooth.

Another vote for Flitz.