Sorry to hear. In my mind S&W has always been pretty but when I Want the gun to go bang no matter what, I always go with Ruger.

Damn that thing bit you! BUT . . . sometimes love hurts. Plus there are a lot of grip options out there that should be both pretty and less hurtful.

A heavy trigger pull that goes bang every time beats a lighter one that doesn’t end of story.

The web of my hand gets the same scrape when I shoot my airweight.

Thanks for the update. I'll second the opinion to just have the smith work the action if you were already planning to have it done.

My 686MG, with the stock wood grips, causes the same bloodshed as shown in 2000Z-71's photo. I went to the Hogue "Tamer" grip on the 686MG. Not a great looking grip, but no more bloodshed. That "Sorbothane" stuff inside the Tamer grip really works in moderating felt recoil, and eliminating bloodshed. The Tamer grip might be worthy of consideration for those with 610MGs causing bloodshed.

BTW, thus far no misfires with any of the factory ammo used in my 686MG...

Another mooner is the BMT demooner I prefer it to the others I have tried.

Well, picked up my 629 today from the FFL. No range time yet, but dang she is a beauty! Compliments very nicely the .357 K-Frame I inherited from my Grandmother 20 years ago.

Now, just waiting on a shoulder rig to take her out and dance — I think Smith and Lipseys done good with this one!

Godspeed and Good Hunting, Always

So I just saw on another forum where a respected member who does some revolver work got one of these new "no-lock" mountain guns in (this particular one was a 686) for some action work, and when he opened it up he discovered that while it may not have the lock cylinder that's visible from the outside, the flag portion is still in there. He even posted photos.

So the part that actually engages the hammer to lock up the gun is still there, there's just no way to manually actuate it. And it's all internal so you can't see it from the outside or tell what position it's in. WTF S&W?

He said the spring is stiffer than what he's seen on previous models, so the flag is less likely to accidentally actuate...but why put it in there at all? Especially without a way to enable/disable it from the outside? It can be removed pretty easily if you're comfortable opening up the gun, and leaves no annoying gap between the hammer and frame like the older models...but still, why?

Well, it took 2 months for my local dealer to get one in but he called me yesterday to tell me my 610 MG was in. We have rain forecast for today and tomorrow so it might be a day or two before I can shoot the dang thing!

92, that made me go look at my 686MG. I don’t have the glad stuff because I don’t have the cutout next to the hammer. That sounds wonky. I could see S&W using frames they have but that would piss me off. Any follow up on that? I think I would try to get that one replaced personally.