quote:

Originally posted by hrcjon:

quote:

Grouping isn't bad at 15 yards well with in a 10in plate

A 10" or so group at 15y is not something that is related in any way to the gun. Work till you can address that. I have no clue on shooting one handed that left the planet awhile ago for most.

I'll remember that and just keep practicing. Thanks.

quote:

Originally posted by DirectDrive:

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Originally posted by oncewas:
oh okay maybe I can. But as you can see this is at seven yards.
Thank you DD for un-fukking my pic.

And yes thank you DD for the help

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Originally posted by DirectDrive:

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Originally posted by oncewas:

Finger placement on the trigger, and jerking the trigger.

IF TS is correct, try some flinch drills with some snap caps. Improper trigger control will stick out like a sore thumb.

H&K-Guy

PS, I haven't watched TS's video, but I'll post it for you below:

^^^. Thanks. Can’t seem to post video from my iPad.

The snap cap drill will show a jerk or flinch.

Have a friend load a magazine for you, with a snap cap somewhere in it.

Like ^^^
Good drill

Another one is to balance a coin on your front sight and keep it there during dry-fire practice.

TS and DD thank you for the info and the video. I think you may have hit the nail on the head sort of speaking. I will get to work practicing and I'm sure it will improve my shooting not only with the 320 but my other pistols as well. Much thanks.

Rex

Just ordered some snap caps. Thanks again

You can dry fire with or without the snap caps. Where they'll come in handy is putting them in the magazine between live rounds; they'll feed like any other round, but you'll just get a click. Any flinching or other behavior will manifest itself very quickly.

Finger placement on the trigger is a non-starter. You can hit the target on center and with repeatability whether you use the crook of the finger, the pad, or the tip. Altering finger position will not make you shoot right or left.

Regardless of how you place your finger, concentrating on a smooth, rearward press, and not a sideward press, will make the difference. This, regardless of what part of the finger you use. The hand grips the firearm. The finger just trips the trigger. Trigger control, however, is a critical fundamental. That is, properly prepping the trigger by consuming any take-up, right to the break, then a smooth press through the break; it's important not to disturb the sight picture as the trigger breaks, or after, and that's where dry firing comes in: the break, and the follow-up.

After that, there's finding the trigger reset point, something you'll want to hammer out with dry fire practice, daily.

quote:

Originally posted by sns3guppy:
You can dry fire with or without the snap caps. Where they'll come in handy is putting them in the magazine between live rounds; they'll feed like any other round, but you'll just get a click. Any flinching or other behavior will manifest itself very quickly.

Finger placement on the trigger is a non-starter. You can hit the target on center and with repeatability whether you use the crook of the finger, the pad, or the tip. Altering finger position will not make you shoot right or left.

Regardless of how you place your finger, concentrating on a smooth, rearward press, and not a sideward press, will make the difference. This, regardless of what part of the finger you use. The hand grips the firearm. The finger just trips the trigger. Trigger control, however, is a critical fundamental. That is, properly prepping the trigger by consuming any take-up, right to the break, then a smooth press through the break; it's important not to disturb the sight picture as the trigger breaks, or after, and that's where dry firing comes in: the break, and the follow-up.

After that, there's finding the trigger reset point, something you'll want to hammer out with dry fire practice, daily.

Yes I've been practicing dry firing and I can see already where I've been jerking and not using steady, smooth backward pressure when pulling the trigger. Definitely have a lot to work on before going back to the range. Thanks

Ease off on the grip pressure.




Link to original video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNVYu3koF4o

quote:

Originally posted by sns3guppy:
Finger placement on the trigger is a non-starter. You can hit the target on center and with repeatability whether you use the crook of the finger, the pad, or the tip. Altering finger position will not make you shoot right or left.

Probably true in general, but not in my case. I have short fingers (and normal palms) and the graphic TS posted is exactly what I experience. I can only get the desired straight back pull with one finger position. Any other finger placement results in a pull or push group.

It's all good information and gives me an awful lot to work with. Given everything that everyone has posted I'm sure I'll be able to find my solution. May even start using two hands.

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May even start using two hands.

Now your talking.

Sometimes the problem is you just don't shoot a particular gun well, nothing wrong with the gun and nothing really wrong with you either. I've owned several Glocks and every Glock I've owned I shoot low and to the left. No matter any adjustments I've made when attempting to improve my accuracy with Glock pistols I've always continued to shoot low and to the left so I gave up on Glocks. Every other gun I've ever shot from Sig's, to Ruger to HK to Beretta to FN, S&W and a few others I've always been able to shoot accurately but for some reason not the Glock.

quote:

Originally posted by oncewas:
It's all good information and gives me an awful lot to work with. Given everything that everyone has posted I'm sure I'll be able to find my solution. May even start using two hands.

Personally, I would not entertain one-handed shooting unless my match shooting required it.
Two-handed is where it's at.

We like to break clay birds (static of course) at 50-60 yards with 9mm.
Trying to do that one handed (for me) would be like trying to write with my foot.

Shooting from only the strong, and week hands are essential skills that are frequently ignored during range time. We all want to shoot our best and see the gratifying results, and consequently many don't spend much time shooting one-handed.

The essence and utility of a handgun is that it can be shot one-handed. There are a lot of shooters who confine their pistol work to seven yards and both hands. What happens when one hand is tied up, or disabled, in the gunfight tomorrow?

Adjust the sights. Jeez, it's not rocket science.

If you're shooting good groups but the point of impact isn't the same as point of aim then simply adjust the sights.

Even if the rear sight on isn't dovetailed in, the front sight is.

Just drift the front sight to the left to move poi to the right.

Also, ignore all the morons with their little miss the bullseye puctures. Those damn pictures have been circulating way too long and show up way too often from people tgat don't have a clue.

Congratulations, you win the I-have-not-read-the-thread award for today. You actually even said the same thing to the OP as the other guy who gave the same answer- about it not being "rocket science". In addition to being the wrong answer, you weren't even original and certainly you weren't polite.

Read the thread, please, and be polite to my new guests, lest you scare them away because they think we're all jerks.

I have to disagree with tanksoldier, both on his wheel of misfortune and his finger placement. That doesn’t mean he’s wrong, but his wheel needs to be corrected:


OP, it looks to me like you’re not shooting 4” left. You’re shooting low left which is classic signs of anticipating/flinching. My prescription for a flinch:
Double up ear pro, especially indoors (avoid indoors if possible)
Start by loosening up on your grip a bit. Focus on gripping like a C-clamp, not a strap wrench. Pressure should be front and rear, not all around.
Dry fire to practice these items and familiarize yourself with the trigger, but often flinches are reactions to the “bang” which can’t be replicated using dry-fire. So live-fire with a looser grip to get used to the feeling and realizing that the gun isn’t going to fly out of your hand.

ETA: forgot to cover why I disagree with finger placement. Basically it doesn’t matter as long as you have good fundamentals. Shifting your placement may help you achieve a directly rearward press. And maybe you can train yourself to get that placement repeatedly. I go for natural and repeatable myself. I don’t want to need to have the perfect grip and the perfect draw and the perfect finger placement, because while you can stop and redo while you’re at the range, that doesn’t work for competition or (more importantly) defensive situations. My whole point is where you put your finger when you’re not paying attention to where you put your finger is where your finger is probably going to be when you need to shoot straight the most. That’s where you should be practicing from.

Why you’re flinching only with the P320? I don’t know. The grips are fairly round, my guess is you tend to grip it all around instead of front and back only. The 1911 is slim and easier to focus on front/back, the P365 is rather flat too. The XD, maybe the grip safety helps push you to front/back.

It sucks you already sent it back to SIG...this is precisely why they won’t pay shipping unless there is an issue: they’d go broke paying for shipping for people that blame the gun prematurely.

And just because it’s been mentioned, many (too many) feel that sights should be adjusted to suit your style. There’s a logic to that, but what happens when you actually do things right? Your shots will be off in the other direction. It’s better to fix the real problem: the end user.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: BuddyChryst,