I absolutely love my 340PD.
Great little pocket carry pistol. Yeah, it's the .357 version, and can handle a Magnum round.

BUT!!!!

.38's, .38 + / +p / +p+ and you're good. You can control the follow up shots without having to re-grip the gun, and still have enough "oomph" behind a round to do some damage.

Then there's the .357 rounds....
Take it from the rest of us- IT HURTS!
Now you're probably the adventureous type, and probably want to try this out just to see for yourself.
Go ahead, but it's gonna hurt.
Unless you already own a .357, borrow 5 rounds from a friend, you'll probably give back 3. Controlling a follow up shot is really tough! I haven't met anyone that doesn't need to re-grip the pistol after the 1st round. That thing kicks like a pissed off Bruce Lee!

I love me a good snub nosed revolver! However, there's a point of "diminishing returns" when it comes to snubs and Magnum rounds. There's not enough barrel length for the Magnum round to take effect, IIRC, 3 1/2 - 4 inches is the magic number. Anything shorter than that, and the force pushing the round comes out the muzzle as a flash.

When I was still working as a LEO, I carried a Model 342 (titanium .38 Special) as my BUG. Great for carrying comfort, but so damn terrible to shoot due to recoil. Even an hour later my palm hurt after qualifying with standard pressure ammunition. I had a Big Dot front sight installed to replace the OEM front sight. It was easy to see and provided tritium for low light situations.

If I were to carry a J-frame .38/.357 revolver today for BUG purposes, I'd go with my stainless steel 640-1 and the security of knowing I'd get off faster, more accurate follow-up shots if needed. BTW: I was very happy with a Mika pocket holster, carried in my right-rear pant's pocket, so the BUG is accessible using either hand.

I still currently have a 640-1 that I bought new in 1995 - I had a TruGlo front sight put on it - and that’s been good…


I’m hoping for something a bit lighter to carry more discretely and I haven’t found a pocket holster for the 640 that does show it pulling my pant leg to my knee…

quote:

Go ahead, but it's gonna hurt.

Yep. I am not recoil shy but …… it’s gonna hurt. . Also make sure you clean the blood off the cylinder release because blood is pretty caustic.

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Also make sure you clean the blood off the cylinder release because blood is pretty caustic.

Lol I know exactly what you're talking about! That knurling is sharp!

I used to shoot J-Frames with essentially the same thumbs-forward grip technique that I use for semi-autos. After enough pain, I found that modifying my grip could change that. I now grip high on the backstrap with my right hand, with my right thumb angled down below the cylinder release, and wrap the thumb of my left hand over the top of my right hand (that thing you're absolutely NOT supposed to do with a semi-auto!) rather than shoving it up under my right thumb and pushing it into the cylinder release. I've found this allows me to still make accurate shots without having to submit a blood sacrifice to the J-Frame gods.

I carry an M&P340 frequently. I don't shoot full house 357's in it but I do shoot pretty stout 38+p (Buffalo Bore). A set of Pachmayr Compacs will tame it down quite a bit.

M&p340 for me, love that gun. Speer gold dot short barrel, always rates well and won’t kill your wrist. Fine little firearm.

I purchased a used 340 back in 2019. I don't have total round count on it, but I've logged the following .38 SPC through it, 200 rnds 158gr MAGTECH FMJ Flat,100 rounds 125 GR SIG FMJ, 50 rnd 158 gr FED SWC, 200 rnd 130 gr FED FMJ, 50 rnd 125 gr SPEER TMJ, 50 rnd 130 gr Auqilla FMJ. Plus Federal 38 SPC +P HST and Winchester .38 SPC +P defender. In .357, I've done 158 gr armscor and some other random rounds in small quantity.

I have had two issues with the revolver in the time. The Aquila 130 grain .38 SPC and the Armscor 158 grain .357 both had a round jump crimp. Both jumped on the fifth round of a rapid fire set (different days). This locked the gun up and we had to force the bullet back into the cylinder IOT open the cylinder and remove the round. Unfortunately, I don't have pictures. What I noticed was that both rounds were not roll crimped. The rounds I usually shoot are all roll crimped into a crimping groove on the bullet.

The pistol will hit targets out to 25 yards, but I won't brag about the groups. The XS front sight is great, but if you catch the light on it just wrong it gets reflected into your eyes. Thats not really a problem, just an annoyance, I've only ever experienced it on an indoor range and it was easily dealt with. In low light conditions the XS front sight is visable, even in a totally dark interior room (the rear notch is not). I really like the sight, it was one of the reasons I purchased it.

My trigger is broken in at this point and is nice and smooth, the previous owner might have put a spring kit in it. I've been told that J-frames are a little heavy out of the box, but the only other J-Frame I own is a used 63, so I haven't experienced it myself. I recommend dry firing alot with snap caps. Some folks swear by the spring kits from wilson,wolfe or apex.

Recoil is varies by load an grips. I ditched the factory grips as soon as I could, I found the 158 gr rounds where where not very comfortable when fired. I tried Hogue and Pachmyer on it, both where comfortable . I ultimately settled on the Crimson trace LG-305 grips. It gave me the laser and reduced felt recoil. I'm able to get through 2X50 round boxes of 130 and 158 gr FMJs a practice session with out having a reoil issue. Interestingly, the 130 gr .38 SPC +Ps are very controllable vs the 158 gr rounds. the Federal 130 gr HST +Ps almost felt like a wadcutter. I want to try the Speer 135gr +Ps. The .357 was more energetic, but bearable, i wouldn't want to shoot more then a box a session.

While I love the laser grips there where some trade offs. With the laser grips it dosen't fit in my Galco Body glove ankle holster and pocket carry in my desantis nemesis is no longer viable. With smaller grips the 340 was great in the front pocket of my jeans. Additionally, the grips would interfere with my safariland comp m I speed loaders. I could still get the rounds in, but speed strips were much easier, albeit slower.

She carries like a dream. While I normally carry a P365 AIWB, I prefer the 340 when I AIWB without an under shirt, its more comfortable against my skin. Also I love how the phlster city special presents the pistol. The grip sits much higher then the 365's grip and is therefore easier to draw quickly.


I've shot it against the LCR and SP101 and I shot my 340 better, but it's the gun and trigger I know and it was a low round count. So don't take my opinion on the matter.

I hope that helps. S&W forum has a couple threads on the 340 that are worth reading.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: CD228,

I gave up J frames once I shot the LCR.

To me the trigger and how this interaction with your finger defines the shot is critically important.

I hate 357 in this size platform,.

Incredible wonder of lightness. Incredible recoil, just not in a good way.

Congrats to all the guys who can tolerate .38s through lightweight J-frames. I only know that I ain't one of those guys. A steel J-frame sure I can tolerate, but for me once it goes to alloy or lighter it's like hanging onto a lit M-80, while .357 ups it to a half a stick of dynamite.

I've shot the 340 once with both a cylinder of range .38 and a cylinder mix of .357. Zero desire to do either of it ever again. But each time we get a 340 in the shop--like we have now--I continue to marvel at how light the blasted thing is.

Then I remember the pain. Yeah, I'm good.

I own a 340PD. It’s a neat revolver that is for my ultralight hiking with the least possible amount of weight. We have no grizzlies around here. I shot it with 357 and it’s not fun but doable. 38 is not bad.

Overall,I have better options for daily carry with my P365 & Shield 2.0 so it’s relegated to hikes only.

My problem with J frames is that I love the little boot grips. They are tiny and conceal very well. If I put the bigger Hogues on then it is much easier to shoot but less concealable. It’s a conundrum. This thread made me put the bigger grips on my 649. I’m wondering if Pachmyr Compacs are smaller?

The LCR is better at mitigating recoil than an alloy J frame. The grip on the LCR makes a huge difference especially with +P loads.

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Originally posted by Sigmund:

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Originally posted by YooperSigs:
After owning many a Smith snub, I went LCR and have not looked back...(

Which has less recoil with std 38 rds, 642 or LCR?

I rarely carry - or shoot - my 642, I'm now considering the LCR model 5401.

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Originally posted by pedropcola:
I’m wondering if Pachmyr Compacs are smaller?

The Compacs are very slightly shorter but significantly fatter. That said, I still just slip it into my back pocket. IMO, they knock down the recoil way better than the Hogues. Also, IMO, worth the 35 bucks to try them out.

My pocket J frame is a Flat Latch model 36 dating to 1962. It was a Sock Drawer Special with some really tiny rust specks on the side plate and the original wood grips. It also featured a very sharply serrated trigger with a DA pull in excess of 15 lbs. Just 15 shots in double action left my finger tip bleeding. That tiny little grip also meant having to re-acquire the proper hold after every shot fired.

Improvements.

Installed a Cylinder and Slide Spring kit. This took the DA trigger pull down to 9 lbs. ever and it's proven 100% reliable with Remington UMC ammo. Note I've compared UMC, CCI, and Federal primers and CCI and Federal are too close to measure in terms of sensitivity but the UMC required me to tune all of my larger frame revolvers to a 9 lbs. DA trigger, at 8 lbs the misfire rate was 60%. So, a big Thumbs Up for the Cylinder and Slide Spring Kit. I had doubts a J frame tuned this light would be reliable but I was wrong, it will fire every thing I use.

Grips. There is no way around it, tiny grips on a very small 38 special means it's useless for Defense. IF you can't achieve a split time under 1 second you would probably be better off looking for a hand stick or grabbing your pocket knife. Note, I tried ALL of the traditional revolver holds, none worked for preventing the gun shifting in my hands. It's why my model 36 now wears some big fat ugly Rubbers made by Hogue, another brand I'll give a big fat Thumbs Up for. Note I also love the Classic Pachmayr's, good lord they are comfortable to shoot with.

So, how does this relate to the 340. Simple, a Spring Kit that works well in a model 36 will also work well in a 340. Second, make sure to test in Live Fire if your grips actually work well in terms of Defense. If they make your pocket revolver too big for a pocket then carry at the waist or get yourself a pocket semi such as the original P365.

PS; I know I really should try out the 340 to see how the grips work. Problem is I don't do much Handgun shooting any more, shooting at moving targets with a shotgun is a lot more fun.

Smith 442 or 642 is my ccw. I have both. I have like 60 handguns to choose from and I roll with a 5 shot light weight. Gold dot short barrel 135 grain ammo. I live in a pretty safe area and don’t purposely go into sketchy places. So it’s defensive in nature only. I do like my 365 but the centennial is easy to conceal

I’d like one of the 340pd ultra lights but not sure if the 2x plus cost is worth it.

I had a 340sc .357 for almost 20 years and loved it.I carried it a lot due to the weight and loved the power which i felt was manageable. One day after a short range session I noticed battering under the forcing cone that was pretty severe. I sent the gun back to Smith and Wesson and they told me "although it's not a defect in workmanship and material we are willing to make an offer". I was able to get an M&P 45 Shield in exchange for a small fee which was very reasonable. My 442 that was preserved in the safe all those years is now my go to revolver loaded with standard pressure 158 gr SWC hollow points. In fact it's actually in my pocket as I type this.

I just saw some reviews of the Kimber K6XS - it’s around 3 ounces heavier, but has a better trigger and is a 6 shot that’s only negligibly bigger than the 340…I may need to ponder…

quote:

Originally posted by dinooch:
I had a 340sc .357 for almost 20 years and loved it.I carried it a lot due to the weight and loved the power which i felt was manageable. One day after a short range session I noticed battering under the forcing cone that was pretty severe. I sent the gun back to Smith and Wesson and they told me "although it's not a defect in workmanship and material we are willing to make an offer". I was able to get an M&P 45 Shield in exchange for a small fee which was very reasonable. My 442 that was preserved in the safe all those years is now my go to revolver loaded with standard pressure 158 gr SWC hollow points. In fact it's actually in my pocket as I type this.

Curious, did your 340SC have the little steel guard on it that S&W now puts on the frame right above the forcing cone of the current-production scandium guns? It's visible in this photo right above the front of the cylinder:

Never owned a 340, but have shot them.
The 340 and the other super light weight j frames are too light. In my opinion the lack of weight hinders my follow up shot.
To me this where the 640 shines, much faster follow up.
If I was market for a modern centennial I'd pick a 640 or a 442/642.

The different sight choices on the modern j frames seem unnecessary. Close encounter, point and shoot guns.

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