Go ![]() | New ![]() | Find ![]() | Notify ![]() | Tools ![]() | Reply ![]() | ![]() |
E tan e epi tas![]() |
You know I have fretted about the locking block at times, even though my Berettas all have the most modern iteration, but the reality is it is an inexpensive wear item that allows for that wonderful straight in feeding. The modern locking blocks are FAR more robust then the early ones and the 92 series has proven it can be abused all to hell. Not bad for a pistol design from the 70s with linage going back to like the 40s. I wonder what the P320/M17-18’s will look like/be thought of after eleventy billion rounds, grunt handling and lowest bidder parts and mags? Me thinks not all that different then a beat to shit 92. Take Care, Shoot Safe, Chris | |||
|
Member![]() |
I had a locking block fail on my 92FS several years ago. I bought the gun almost 30 years ago for my 30th birthday (now you know how old I am). The locking block that failed was the original style, without the radius cut. I replaced it with the updated style and it's good to go. I've posted pics of the gun and block before, but I'll try and find them again. Trouble is, I think they were on Photobucket!!! Ugh!! Steve "The Marines I have seen around the world have, the cleanest bodies, the filthiest minds, the highest morale, and the lowest morals of any group of animals I have ever seen. Thank God for the United States Marine Corps." Eleanor Roosevelt, 1945 | |||
|
Resident Rogue and Blackguard![]() |
Ernest Langdon shared with me that the factory expected replacement interval for a new locking block is 20k rounds with normal pressure ammo. He recommends changing them at 15k just to be sure it doesn't shit the bed and possibly damage the frame in the process. Cheap insurance and that is what I do on my 92s...YMMV Save the whales. Redeem them for valuable prizes... | |||
|
Prepared for the Worst, Providing the Best![]() |
New block came today. Took all of 5 minutes to change the plunger and install the new one. My son and I took it to the range after for a quick test, and it performed flawlessly. A side-note...I knew that LTT trigger bar made the reset short, but I guess it never registered to me how short. I put about 75 rounds through the Beretta, and then switched to my P320 SC for a little bit. After my first shot with the P320, I short stroked the reset...for a second I thought I had a dead trigger, then I realized what I'd done. The reset on the P320 isn't bad, but it's got nothing on that Beretta! | |||
|
Master of one hand pistol shooting ![]() |
I never heard of wedge cracks. I just checked my 92s. An FS and an M9. Both have a radiused corner on the block. The FS is fixed up to be a Match Ball gun with some Toyota trigger work, LPA sight, and a bushing added. I got my final leg points with it. Both triggers are good but not as good as the untouched (as far as I know) triggers in my mid 90s 220 and 228. The Sigs are nowhere near as accurate. My newer Sig triggers are bad in comparison SIGnature NRA Benefactor CMP Pistol Distinguished | |||
|
Member |
I bought my Italian 92F new in 1988 and it was the first gun I bought. I probably put about 15,000 rounds through it when I took it apart one day after a range trip. I don’t think I had ever replaced the recoil spring at that time. I noticed a crack originating at the wing radius and proceeding down the side. I sent it back to Beretta and had them check over the slide and frame, replace every spring and pin, as well as do the FS upgrade to the large hammer pin. They refinished the barrel in the original Italian “bruniton” and sent every replaced part back and labeled in individual plastic bags. | |||
|
Master of one hand pistol shooting ![]() |
Do these replacement blocks fit universally or do they need fitting. I imagine Samms or Dr Nick gun builds get fitted throughout. SIGnature NRA Benefactor CMP Pistol Distinguished | |||
|
Prepared for the Worst, Providing the Best![]() |
Mine dropped right in, however the design of the plunger changed, so the original style will not fit in the groove of the new block (it's narrower). The kit I bought came with a new plunger and roll pin...literally 3 minutes to punch the old one out and put the new one in...took longer to get the tools around than it did to do the job. | |||
|
A man's got to know his limitations ![]() |
I have an Elite II made in 2000. Is the locking block something I should change at this time? Thanks. "But, as luck would have it, he stood up. He caught that chunk of lead." Gunnery Sergeant Carlos Hathcock "If there's one thing this last week has taught me, it's better to have a gun and not need it than to need a gun and not have it." Clarence Worley | |||
|
Sigforum K9 handler![]() |
Do you have 15-20k through it? If yes, I’d change it. If no, I would keep shooting it. | |||
|
E tan e epi tas![]() |
What JJones said. They don’t simply deteriorate with age, only through use. They are wear item. I don’t know what generation the locking block was in 2000 but I would say unless you see a crack or problem you are fine going 5-10k at minimum and if it’s one of the newer blocks 15-25k. Take Care, Shoot Safe, Chris | |||
|
fugitive from reality![]() |
I edited my OP to reflect the lockig block is a 15k round wear item. Funny thing is the Army didn't replace the older blocks wholesale. Gen 1 blocks were still in use when I retired in 2013. _____________________________ 'I'm pretty fly for a white guy'. | |||
|
Member |
My buddy owned a firing range in the '90s and he had a small soup bowl full of broken locking blocks. I asked him about it and he said that an armourer he knew had a bucket full. Interestingly, the Taurus PT92 didn't seem to have that issue, I suspect more because of an inability to machine nice sharp corners than design. He would usually rent out the Taurus unless the customer specifically asked for the Beretta. | |||
|
Member |
A seller on ebay has new 92 barrels with locking block for $74.99. Ordered one today. | |||
|
Powered by Social Strata | Page 1 2 |
![]() | Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|