Hey Steve 22X, that is great info. If you wanted to mod your 87Target trigger to just be a standard DA/SA 87 trigger do you happen to know which parts I need to order/change out?

My 22/45's with Volquartsen stuff are my target style guns, I would prefer my 87T to just be a normal DA/SA.

Any inputs?

quote:

Originally posted by pedropcola:
Hey Steve 22X, that is great info. If you wanted to mod your 87Target trigger to just be a standard DA/SA 87 trigger do you happen to know which parts I need to order/change out?

My 22/45's with Volquartsen stuff are my target style guns, I would prefer my 87T to just be a normal DA/SA.
Any inputs?

Sorry but I can't help as I am not certain if the 97 87 Target can be modified to be DA/SA.

Full disclosure, about 4 months ago I put several pistols on consignment and the 87 has not yet sold.
I may go bail it out, place a red dot on it and put it back into the .22 rotation.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Steve 22X,

Yea, I put a Leupold DeltaPoint on mine. I’m not sure I like optics though. My son likes it. I think he thinks it looks like something from a video game.

I'm not familiar with the Beretta 87. With that being said I think I'll stick with my old S&W M 41 or my old High Standard Victor 2 of my antiques. Or possibly just grab a Ruger MKII. Then I know I have something. I don't believe I'll ever buy another Beretta in this lifetime.

Bailed my 87 Target out of consignment jail.
Essentially, it amounted to me buying back my pistol for $20 plus tax.

Measured the stock trigger pull with a Lyman electronic gauge = 3 lb 11.7 oz (avg. of 5 pulls).

Reinstalled the 89 trigger, trigger bar and trigger bar spring without any other mods.
Trigger pull = 3 lb 7.1 oz (avg. of 5 pulls).
I suspect there are slight geometry changes that account for the difference.

Trigger has less take up, a clean break and after readjusting the trigger stop screw in the 89 trigger, no over travel.

I think that was my problem; I'd heard enough good great things about the 89 that I was thinking that at least some of the same mojo DNA was imparted in the 87 Target. Only some amount of shared looks it seems...

The 87 Target as it is and how it's been for me is not a bad gun. It's just not a particularly special one.

Interesting discussion. Age is not being kind to my right thumb, hand and wrist, so several .22 LR pistols have my attention.

quote:

Originally posted by Rexster:
Interesting discussion. Age is not being kind to my right thumb, hand and wrist, so several .22 LR pistols have my attention.

The 87 Target has an external thumb-cockable hammer. With the hammer cocked, its slide (or bolt, if you prefer) is very easy to rack. Most .22 target pistols have internal hammers.

The regular 87 is super easy to rack with the hammer cocked - which is easy as well.

quote:

Originally posted by Rexster:
Interesting discussion. Age is not being kind to my right thumb, hand and wrist, so several .22 LR pistols have my attention.

I had my Buckmark modified with a slide racker. I like it. It isn't a gun for holster carry now, but I have enough others for those roles.

There are a few options, but this is the one I went with:

And here is the link to the maker
Striplin slide racker for buckmark

I don't think I need one for my Buck Mark Hunter (yet), but that slide racker/charging handle would fall right in with my Radian Raptors.

Very Tacticool.

quote:

Originally posted by rbert0005:
I had to have one a few years ago, so I bought one.
I found the grip to be uncomfortably short for any kind of real shooting.
<snip>

That puzzles me. The Beretta 87T magazine has a rubber pad at its bottom, which effectively lengthens the grip. With the mag inserted, the grip length of my 87T is as much as my SIG X5 Comp, with an ordinary P226 mag.

Waiting on Cera-kote job on trigger bar, and mine is done.

I used only the 89 trigger [yes- I had to file/grind down the left side to make it fit- but it wasn't bad, and is invisible] and the 89 trigger bar.

I modified the 89 trigger bar in 3 ways.
1- I used my tools to cut a small half-moon shape in the bottom for the 87 trigger bar spring to fit into- using the 87 bar as a model. Yes- there are other ways. this was mine.

2- I modified the rear of the trigger bar by removing metal to allow the existing 87 thumb safety parts to push the bar down when safety was on- and disconnect the bar from the sear. Yes, that pivoting lever can be removed, but I preferred to let the safety work as designed.

3- I had someone weld up the front of the disconnector bump on the top of the bar- bringing it forward. I then dressed it down to the right height/width/length to allow the trigger to fire the gun and the bar to disconnect when the slide is back around .05-.1", instead of the original .33" of opening.

This reduces the likelyhood of out of battery firing.


With the 89 bar and trigger, I have about .2" of takeup, a crisp break, and almost no overtravel.

Or, I can throw in the original bar and trigger for about .3-4" of takeup, and about .2-3" of overtravel, with a potential out of battery condition as the slide could be open enough for a .30-06 bullet to fly through the gap.

The trigger is in the 3.5-4.5# range, I believe, but I will measure it when it gets back.


As for DA/SA trigger on a .22- I have a conversion top end for my P220 combat. that will have to do.

i posted in the black friday thread beretta is having 30% off site wide through today.

that puts 10 87T mags at 300 ish (i think 303) shipped.

if you have an 87, i recommended 10 mags. That's two boxes loaded. It makes for fun shooting.

I still love mine. won 50 bucks with it back in oct.

The information is much appreciated as I have considered this pistol. It seems that, if I spend a significant amount of time and money, I can make an expensive pistol that shoots poorly work well. I've done that too many times already.

quote:

Originally posted by Fredward:
The information is much appreciated as I have considered this pistol. It seems that, if I spend a significant amount of time and money, I can make an expensive pistol that shoots poorly work well. I've done that too many times already.

This pistol does not shoot poorly at all. First time shooting any competition with it i scored 100 8x. There is not a damn thing wrong with the gun. It shoots as accurately as my xeese which has been tuned by larry's guns. Better than my of the half dozen vq rugers i have owned with 0 parts failures. Better than my current Smith and Wesson victory.

What you are reading are folks making it shoot like every other pistol they own. Nothing wrong with that. I did not buy it to shoot like a Ruger or Smith. It is a level of nitpicking that 99% of shooters will never notice.

It is by far a great handling gun and shooting gun.

There is a good case to be made for this style of trigger. If you can manage this trigger without the fancy trigger stop people are adding, your overall ability to finely manage other types of trigger pulls will be greatly increased.

As far as making an expensive pistol shoot well, I too have done that with way to many vq guns. Constant fiddling. I would put forth that most of that desire is not because of the gun, but the owners desire to tinker with it.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: DSgrouse,

quote:

Originally posted by DSgrouse:
This pistol does not shoot poorly at all. ...

I would put forth that most of that desire is not because of the gun, but the owners desire to tinker with it.

I agree with this.

It works VERY well as designed, but I wanted it to be 'different' and work the way I wanted it to.

My take on it was that it was a GREAT pistol for certain types of shooting games where speed of presentation and rapidity of drill, hitting the target, was the key.

If the goal is to get 10 rounds into a nickle sized hole at 10 yards without any time constraints, this is not my first choice.

It all depends on the goal.

It feels great in my hand and I love it. I just wanted it to be more like the way I have many of my other .22 handguns set up.