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Cleaning/restoring a rusty revolver? Login/Join 
In the yahd, not too
fah from the cah
Picture of ryan81986
posted
As the title says, looking for some tips. I have an old Colt Police Positive that was found in my late grandfather's desk drawer. God knows how long it has been there. It has some minor to moderate surface rust in a couple spots on the barrel and frame. None of the spots are bigger than about 3/4" and there is some minor rust inside the barrel as well. Luckily the revolver still functions as normal (although I haven't shot it for obvious reasons).

I saw the Birchwood blue and rust remover and rebluing kit but I wanted to check here before possibly screwing it up worse.




 
Posts: 6440 | Location: Just outside of Boston | Registered: March 28, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I wouldn't go that route. First I'd wipe it with a thick coat of a good gun oil and let that sit for several days just to loosen or soften the rust. Then get a Stainless steel sponge (wool) and use/rub it lightly with the a good CLP such as Breakfree CLP to remove the rust as it won't damage the blueing that is left as the blueing is harder.

https://www.brownells.com/guns...ponge-prod21175.aspx
 
Posts: 21428 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of SigSentry
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I enjoy watching Mark Novak (Anvil) do conservation (conversion)

https://youtu.be/62_pKoYje9o

Conservation 101:
https://youtu.be/rShG_F85W1Y

This message has been edited. Last edited by: SigSentry,
 
Posts: 3659 | Registered: May 30, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of FiveFiveSixFan
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I've used the Big 45 Metal Cleaner along with either a light gun oil, CLP or even WD 40. Let it soak in for awhile and then rub the affected area with light pressure. The .22 and 12 gauge shotgun I was working on were pretty seriously rusted and by working slowly and with a light touch, the results were pretty impressive. Several spots required an application of cold blue but that was not unexpected.
 
Posts: 7405 | Registered: January 10, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by FiveFiveSixFan:
I've used the Big 45 Metal Cleaner along with either a light gun oil, CLP or even WD 40. Let it soak in for awhile and then rub the affected area with light pressure. The .22 and 12 gauge shotgun I was working on were pretty seriously rusted and by working slowly and with a light touch, the results were pretty impressive. Several spots required an application of cold blue but that was not unexpected.


I've also had good luck with this. it works real well for something that seemed like a gimmick before I tried it.
 
Posts: 977 | Location: Midwest | Registered: April 13, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Just because something is legal to do doesn't mean it is the smart thing to do.
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I have used Kroil to remove surface rust. Put a little bit on the rust spot and let it soak for 30 min then a rag & elbow grease. Add more Kroil as needed.


Integrity is doing the right thing, even when nobody is looking.
 
Posts: 4290 | Location: Metamora MI | Registered: October 31, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of sourdough44
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Yes, ‘rust remover’ takes bluing off too, my experience anyway.

One could deal with the reblue later, if you have to go that route.
 
Posts: 6539 | Location: WI | Registered: February 29, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of ogive40
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take the grips off and soak the gun in a pan filled with a CLP or better yet, Kroil. Let it soak for a few days. soak some 000 steel wool with kroil and lightly wipe and run a brass brush with kroil in barrel. do the same for cylinders.

This should make a big improvement. Keep the gun wiped down with some corrosion x or Rig grease going forward and keep gun in a aerated environment with moisture control.

DO NOT reblue or refinish the gun. DO NOT use a rust remover.


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Posts: 2230 | Location: NJ | Registered: July 27, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Frangas non Flectes
Picture of P220 Smudge
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Kroil first! Shit, let it soak for as long as you want. Just give it a hit with some fresh Kroil whenever and wherever it looks like it's drying out. It will not hurt the finish and it will break up rust so you can gently wipe it off. I did it with a Colt 1908 I inherited. It was made in 1938 and has a very deep blue finish, but lots of scratches that had developed rust. Still scratched, still has that deep blue, but now not rusted.


______________________________________________
“There are plenty of good reasons for fighting, but no good reason ever to hate without reservation, to imagine that God Almighty Himself hates with you, too.”
 
Posts: 17880 | Location: Sonoran Desert | Registered: February 10, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
semi-reformed sailor
Picture of MikeinNC
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Another vote for Mark Novak’s conservation 101...wipe off as much loose rust as possible then boil the gun for an hour...use a toothbrush on the rust, then you may have to boil it again....always at 1 hour sets...

This leaves the original finish and gets rid of the rust by converting it to iron.



"Violence, naked force, has settled more issues in history than has any other factor.” Robert A. Heinlein

“You may beat me, but you will never win.” sigmonkey-2020

“A single round of buckshot to the torso almost always results in an immediate change of behavior.” Chris Baker
 
Posts: 11567 | Location: Temple, Texas! | Registered: October 07, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Kroil for sure. Use bronze wool, not steel. It is less likely to damage the metal.
 
Posts: 17317 | Location: Lexington, KY | Registered: October 15, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Greymann
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I've used 0000 steel wool with oil
or ATF with good results. No harm
to the bluing. Rub lightly.
 
Posts: 1714 | Location: New Mexico | Registered: March 21, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
In the yahd, not too
fah from the cah
Picture of ryan81986
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Thanks guys. I've ordered some Kroil and I'll post updates once it's here. I wish I could get it locally but it doesn't seem like I can.




 
Posts: 6440 | Location: Just outside of Boston | Registered: March 28, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Udo
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As stated above, four "aught" wool is the best choice. I don't have access to bronze wool, but believe it would be better than steel. Go very slow. The turtle wins this race.
 
Posts: 1766 | Location: Middle Tennessee | Registered: January 28, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of SR
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you might google and see if there is anyone in your area that specializes in restoring older firearms. they might have ideas. best if you can meet with them. removing/modifying the finish might reduce the value of the gun - if that's a consideration.

I know a guy in this area that does restorations (and I believe valuations). He's a good guy and might be willing to chat with you and give suggestions. Send me an email if you want his contact info. Has a good reputation - in case you've considered sending the gun out. (He's done general work for me - I don't have anything fancy or old)




Speak softly and carry a big stick loaded Sig
 
Posts: 4892 | Location: Raleigh, North Carolina | Registered: September 27, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Fredward:
Kroil for sure. Use bronze wool, not steel. It is less likely to damage the metal.


I'll second the bronze wool. With broze wool you can use fine, medium, or coarse and it won't damage the blue finish.
 
Posts: 952 | Location: WV | Registered: May 30, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by jaybirdaccountant:
quote:
Originally posted by Fredward:
Kroil for sure. Use bronze wool, not steel. It is less likely to damage the metal.


I'll second the bronze wool. With broze wool you can use fine, medium, or coarse and it won't damage the blue finish.


YUP. Bronze is a softer metal than steel. Steel on steel will scratch. I prefer 0000 Bronze wool, most marine stores carry it and Ace Hardwares usually have it.
 
Posts: 21428 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
In the yahd, not too
fah from the cah
Picture of ryan81986
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Got the Kroil today. Here it is prior to application of it. It's hard to see but there is a little rust on the barrel as well.





 
Posts: 6440 | Location: Just outside of Boston | Registered: March 28, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Hop head
Picture of lyman
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quote:
Originally posted by ogive40:
take the grips off and soak the gun in a pan filled with a CLP or better yet, Kroil. Let it soak for a few days. soak some 000 steel wool with kroil and lightly wipe and run a brass brush with kroil in barrel. do the same for cylinders.

This should make a big improvement. Keep the gun wiped down with some corrosion x or Rig grease going forward and keep gun in a aerated environment with moisture control.

DO NOT reblue or refinish the gun. DO NOT use a rust remover.



this,

if you are so inclined,
a simple foil type tin,
grips off, place the revolver on it's side in the tin (think cake or pie pan disposable type)

fill it with kerosene, and let it sit a day or 2,

use a piece of 0000 steel or bronze wool, soaked in oil, to rub the freckles etc,
it the rust is a bit flaky, use a brass cartidge rim to scrap it a bit,

wipe, clean, etc etc and then oil it well,



https://chandlersfirearms.com/chesterfield-armament/
 
Posts: 10668 | Location: Beach VA,not VA Beach | Registered: July 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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