I like the Gen 2 better then the 3 or 4. Those finger grooves never seem to line up just right for me.

quote:

Originally posted by saigonsmuggler:
Broke down and bought a gen 4 G26 after about 10 years without one in my safe, mainly because I have about 15 or so Glock mags leftover from my past Glock days.

Love it so far. Easy to CCW because of light weight.

Does a 2-round extension Pearce grip reduce the reliability of the stock mag?

Thanks.

Glock makes factory 12 round mags for it, find some of those. Using the OEM mags I like the +0 gen4 Pearce grips. I've seen a number of cases from the +1 round versions on up with mag separation at the range.

There, I fixed it. G30S wearing flush-fitting 9rd mag.

quote:

Glock makes factory 12 round mags for it, find some of those. Using the OEM mags I like the +0 gen4 Pearce grips. I've seen a number of cases from the +1 round versions on up with mag separation at the range.

Hmmm, no such problem with mine, at least so far. Through several hundred rounds at least with each of the three +1s of mine with 40S&W, none have shown any signs of separating from the mag body. Similar with the lone +2 G19, with about 1400rds through. Perhaps those that you saw fail were a result of incorrect installation or damage caused as a result of improper removal technique used with the factory plate?

I used to carry in-gun using these mags with supreme confidence in them and only recently stopped because I modified the positioning of my holster and discovered that the resulting longer grip more easily printed. I still carry one as a spare.

On another forum, they said that G26 10-round magazine uses same spring as the G19 15-rounder, thus same spring as the G26 12-rounder. True?

quote:

Originally posted by soggy_spinout:
Perhaps those that you saw fail were a result of incorrect installation or damage caused as a result of improper removal technique used with the factory plate?

That would be my guess. Glock floorplates can be tricky to get off, if you don't know how to do it correctly. I've seen people recommend some seriously retarded methods for removing Glock magazine floorplates. (Hint: If you're using vice grips or C-clamps, you're doing it wrong, and risk causing your magazine to fail.)

quote:

Originally posted by saigonsmuggler:
On another forum, they said that G26 10-round magazine uses same spring as the G19 15-rounder, thus same spring as the G26 12-rounder. True?

True. So you can add various extra capacity extensions to the factory G26 mags without worrying about having to swap out the mag spring.

Thanks Rogue. I saw the vice grip YouTube videos too. So what's the correct method? Pinch the sides as hard as you can while pulling on the leveraged screwdriver thru the baseplate hole?

I bought the Glock + extensions.

quote:

Originally posted by saigonsmuggler:
Thanks Rogue. I saw the vice grip YouTube videos too. So what's the correct method? Pinch the sides as hard as you can while pulling on the leveraged screwdriver thru the baseplate hole?

Leveraging with the using the Glock disassembly tool or a similar punch is the official Glock method. It's tricky the first few times, and you can crack the plastic baseplate or the locking insert/button if it's done improperly or you use an oversized metal punch, but once you get the hang of it, it works well. You don't necessarily need to compress the side tabs while using this method, though that does make it easier. In addition to just squeezing with your hand, there's also this handy "GTUL", which a lot of people recommend: http://www.mygtul.com/content/...our-glock-magazine-0

However, I use a different method that's hard to describe. But here goes... All you'll need is a flat tabletop/countertop with a 90 degree edge, and an disassembly tool or other similar punch. You grasp the magazine body with your right hand, with the front of the magazine facing your palm and the baseplate on top. Use a punch in your left hand to slightly depress the button of the locking plate, while pushing one of the rear corners of the baseplate firmly down onto the tabletop. That pressure on one of the corners will move the baseplate slightly forward, and will retain the locking plate in the disengaged position. Set the punch aside, and hold onto the baseplate with your left hand, exerting a little forward pressure to prevent it from snapping back into place. Then while continuing to grasp the magazine body in your right hand, move to the flat edge of the tabletop, position the hard edge of the table to push against the rear lip of the baseplate, while your hand and the rest of the body hangs off the table. (There should be enough of a gap present to help guide you and ensure that the magazine body will clear the table edge). And then just push down on the body firmly with your right hand, and the table edge pushes the baseplate the rest of the way off. Stop short of totally removing the baseplate, in order to prevent the insert or spring from flying out.

This method doesn't require any compression of the magazine body, and the punch is only used to initially depress the locking insert through the hole in the baseplate. It works well, but like I said, it's tough to describe in print.

Just in case anyone wanted to see this:
Here is a G30S with a 9rd mag and a Pearce finger extension..

Thanks again Rogue. By not pressing the sides, would those little side nubs get damaged by just pushing the base plate off with them still engaging?

I had the GTUL, it works great.

It can't be that bad.
One thing the Glock has going for it is you can convert it to 9mm, 40S&W, 357SIG, or 45GAP by changing slides and magazines.
One thing the Glock doesn't have going for it is the P220 converts from 45ACP to 9mm faster...

quote:

Originally posted by newmexican:
I had the GTUL, it works great.

+1,000 Works great and well worth the small cost. The first time I took a Glock mag apart with a GTUL it was so damn easy I swore sorcery was involved. Bill

quote:

Originally posted by saigonsmuggler:
Thanks again Rogue. By not pressing the sides, would those little side nubs get damaged by just pushing the base plate off with them still engaging?

Most likely not. The official Glock disassembly procedure doesn't involve pressing in the sides, so that leads me to believe compressing the sides is unnecessary.

quote:

Originally posted by .38supersig:
One thing the Glock has going for it is you can convert it to 9mm, 40S&W, 357SIG, or 45GAP by changing slides and magazines.

It's usually not quite as simple as mix-and-match slides and magazines, with a few exceptions. 40 to 357 and back is just a barrel swap. 40/357 to 9mm is just a different magazine along with a slide swap or conversion barrel (but you might not have 100% reliability). Other caliber changes are more complicated.

While you can convert a 40/357 Glock to 9mm by just swapping the slide or using a conversion barrel, if you want it to be 100% reliable, you may want to swap out the trigger housing/ejector too. And in order to convert a 9mm Glock to .40/357, you have to swap the slide, and you also have to swap out the trigger housing/ejector.

Converting a 45 GAP Glock to 9/40/357 is a little more involved. While it looks like you can stick a 9/40/357 slide and magazine on the 45 GAP frame, if you want it to be reliable you'll also need to swap out the trigger housing/ejector, trigger bar, and slide stop. Going the other direction from 9/40/357 to 45GAP likely requires swapping out all those parts, in addition to the slide and magazine. (I can't find any info because nobody actually wants to convert to 45 GAP! )

quote:

Originally posted by RogueJSK:

quote:

Originally posted by saigonsmuggler:
Thanks again Rogue. By not pressing the sides, would those little side nubs get damaged by just pushing the base plate off with them still engaging?

Most likely not. The official Glock disassembly procedure doesn't involve pressing in the sides, so that leads me to believe compressing the sides is unnecessary.

I push the follower up with a screwdriver and and squeeze the sides of the magazine with a channel locks just above the base plate. Works like a charm.

Edit to add: purchased my second Glock last week, I'm the proud owner of a G42.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by parabellum:
At some point in your life, you will buy a Glock and secretly fall in love with it..... /QUOTE]

Well, I did...I bought a G27 followed by a G30. and like all young lovers, we grew apart, my eye started to wander, and lo and behold I met my true Love....The Sig Sauer. I sold the Glocks and never looked back. One day I may have another, but my M11A1 and P229 fullfill my desires

You bought a Glock. Prophecy fulfilled.

Next?

quote:

Originally posted by Slick Slidestop:

Well, I did...I bought a G27 followed by a G30. and like all young lovers, we grew apart, my eye started to wander, and lo and behold I met my true Love....The Sig Sauer. I sold the Glocks and never looked back. One day I may have another, but my M11A1 and P229 fullfill my desires

Sweet story..
I've sold Sigs to by Glocks..
I got 2 Glocks for every one Sig I sold...
But I still own 2 Sigs..

quote:

Originally posted by isthatasiginyourpocket:
I push the follower up with a screwdriver and and squeeze the sides of the magazine with a channel locks just above the base plate. Works like a charm.

Edit to add: purchased my second Glock last week, I'm the proud owner of a G42.

I'd be a bit leery using channel locks to remove a base plate.
Not only can you mar the surface, unless you're padding it, you can easily bend the inner metal lining of your mag.
I'd also recommend using a punch instead of a screwdriver to push up the magazine insert and push the base forward.
But hey, if it works for you, more power to ya..


And since you're into squeezing mags, check out the Vickers base plate for your G42, as well as the G42 Vickers mag release.



The Vickers mag release is a must on a G42 IMHO..



You can find both pretty cheap on eBay, usually with free shipping.