SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  SIG Pistols    Help with Modded West German P228 Light Primer Strikes
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Help with Modded West German P228 Light Primer Strikes Login/Join 
Member
posted
I have a West German P228 that I have modified quite a bit and am having occasional light primer strikes with various ammo brands. A second trigger pull does not fire the round either. This was a grail gun for me and would like to carry it but I can't trust it yet. I will list the modifications below for full disclosure.

1) E2 Grips (required changing the mainspring, strut and seat.)
2) SIG Factory SRT kit
3) Gray Guns P-Series adjustable trigger. https://grayguns.com/product/s...able-curved-trigger/
4) Legion small slide catch lever
5) Gray Guns fat stainless guide rod

The obvious place to look is the new main spring after adding the E2 grips.
I originally bought a 19lb. spring from TGS. Then I recently bought a 20lb. mainspring and that didn't help either. I have read conflicting information about the factory mainspring tension being 21 and 24 lbs. Which is it? Do you think that is the issue?

Should I keep messing with the mainspring or look elsewhere?
Firing pin?

 
Posts: 290 | Registered: December 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of Greymann
posted Hide Post
For one, your firing pin positioning pin is installed upside-down.
Maybe it is dragging on your firing pin.

The original main spring was a 24lb. But it is too long to fit your more modern strut and seat. The newer short strut and plastic seat use a shorter 21lb spring.

.
 
Posts: 1689 | Location: New Mexico | Registered: March 21, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Military Arms Collector
Picture of darkest2000
posted Hide Post
Your main culprit is most likely the E2 grip and non-factory configured hammer spring components. So start there.

Personally I find most of those mods unnecessary or counter productive for a carry piece. For example why would you want the extra weight from the solid guide rod?
 
Posts: 10852 | Location: Orange County, CA, USA | Registered: March 18, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
I thought that was just a roll pin. I did not make any modifications to that pin. I have noticed it has protruded more or less sometimes by hundredths of an inch. Maybe that needs to be replaced?

quote:
Originally posted by Greymann:
For one, your firing pin positioning pin is installed upside-down.
Maybe it is dragging on your firing pin.

The original main spring was a 24lb. But it is too long to fit your more modern strut and seat. The newer short strut and plastic seat use a shorter 21lb spring.

.
 
Posts: 290 | Registered: December 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Thanks for the input. I have medium hands so the E2 grips feel 100x better than stock. They make the gun fit me perfectly.

As for the other mods. I've had other pistols with SRT, and the Gray guns trigger hits the perfect balance between the Sig fat or slim triggers.
The steel guide rod is mostly aesthetic. The weight increase in nominal.

quote:
Originally posted by darkest2000:
Your main culprit is most likely the E2 grip and non-factory configured hammer spring components. So start there.

Personally I find most of those mods unnecessary or counter productive for a carry piece. For example why would you want the extra weight from the solid guide rod?
 
Posts: 290 | Registered: December 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of Greymann
posted Hide Post
There is two pins together.
The larger o.d. pin gap should be at 12 o'clock and inner pin at 6 o'clock.

The pins ride in a slot on the top of firing pin. With the outer pin upside-down it will be scraping the firing pin.
 
Posts: 1689 | Location: New Mexico | Registered: March 21, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Got it. I found some replacement pins online. I will replace them and install them correctly and see how that goes. Thanks!


quote:
Originally posted by Greymann:
There is two pins together.
The larger o.d. pin gap should be at 12 o'clock and inner pin at 6 o'clock.

The pins ride in a slot on the top of firing pin. With the outer pin upside-down it will be scraping the firing pin.
 
Posts: 290 | Registered: December 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
For the life of me why would anyone make any changes to a Sig P-228, far as I'm concerned perfect out of the box like just about all the classic Sigs and probably one of the best for carry. Return it to original factory configuration if you intend to carry it.
 
Posts: 190 | Registered: December 08, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Oriental Redneck
Picture of 12131
posted Hide Post
1- You did not have LPSs with the same ammo, before all the changes?

2- If not, did the changes include disassembling the slide and reassembling it? If the slide was unmolested, then the roll pins, although being in incorrect orientations, might not have anything to do with the LPS problem.

3- The E2 grip itself has nothing to do with your problem. First thing is just return the main spring to original factory weight and go from there.


Q






 
Posts: 27939 | Location: TEXAS | Registered: September 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Thanks for all the feedback.

I didn’t shoot it much (less than 50 rounds) before the changes but did not have any LPS.

Show me some grips as low profile as e2 that I can use the original strut and spring with and I will consider it. The e2 ergos are so much better than the wood ones that came on it.

I don’t think any of my modifications are so drastic that the LPS issue can’t be resolved. I like the changes I made.
I prefer SRT. It should be standard on all new P series Sigs IMHO. That Gray Guns trigger is a dream as far as DA pull and take up go. When I replace the roll pins I will disassemble the slide and check everything else while I’m at it. If it still has issues I will try some grips that will allow the use of the original mainspring. Anybody have plain plastic p229/p228 grips they want to sell? I sold the blocky wood grips that came with it.
 
Posts: 290 | Registered: December 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Checkered aluminum grips are about as thin as the E2s and are much more “grippy.”
 
Posts: 40 | Location: Center of U.S.A. | Registered: June 05, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Frangas non Flectes
Picture of P220 Smudge
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by IBM360:
Checkered aluminum grips are about as thin as the E2s and are much more “grippy.”


https://www.hogueinc.com/grips...a/extreme-series-g10

Same thickness and dimensions as the aluminum, but they're chemically inert and won't get hot or cold. They also won't get scratched up the way aluminum grips can. I wouldn't go with E2's over these unless you have really small hands, in which case the P228 may be the wrong choice anyway.


______________________________________________
Carthago delenda est
 
Posts: 17799 | Location: Sonoran Desert | Registered: February 10, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Oriental Redneck
Picture of 12131
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by IBM360:
Checkered aluminum grips are about as thin as the E2s and are much more “grippy.”

That's a no.


Q






 
Posts: 27939 | Location: TEXAS | Registered: September 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
“about as thin” doesn’t mean “exactly as thin”

My aluminum grips are thinner than G10 and thicker than E2s
 
Posts: 40 | Location: Center of U.S.A. | Registered: June 05, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
  Powered by Social Strata  
 

SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  SIG Pistols    Help with Modded West German P228 Light Primer Strikes

© SIGforum 2024