When you open the cylinder, the serial number should be located on the frame underneath the crane. Above that is the model number it should be 17-X with X being the revision number. Unless it's really old, there should be 3 letters at the beginning of the serial number. $375 is a steal unless it's really beat up.

My 17 and 617 below.

quote:

Originally posted by 2000Z-71:
When you open the cylinder, the serial number should be located on the frame underneath the crane. Above that is the model number it should be 17-X with X being the revision number. Unless it's really old, there should be 3 letters at the beginning of the serial number. $375 is a steal unless it's really beat up.

My 17 and 617 below.

Sharp looking revolvers


Yes, covered that earlier, the numbers on the frame and crane match but are not serial or model numbers per Captain127 post and confirmed over on S&W Forums, they are assembly numbers.

There is a number on the cylinder I"m going by later after work and checking it out if it's still there.

quote:

Originally posted by HRK:
There is a number on the cylinder I"m going by later after work and checking it out if it's still there.

The number on the cylinder won't help. This shows the location of the model and serial number.


https://www.smith-wesson.com/s...el-329-safety-recall

2000Z-71, Is that a 17 or a 517? It has the under barrel lug. Both of my 17's are under lug free. Just curious.

2000Z-71's guns appear to be (top) a 17-6, and (bottom) a 617 (-4 or -5 I think).
The 17-6s, -7s and -8s were made with full underlug barrels. Fairly low production numbers from the late 1980s to the mid 1990s, and while not really "rare" they are incredibly scarce.
I'm still looking for a 4 inch.

Top is a 17-6, bottom is a 617-4. The 617 is a recent acquisition, it's a grail gun for me. I've been looking off and on for 15 years for a 617 with the steel 10 shot cylinder, 4" barrel and no lock. The 17 was a consolation prize that I stumbled across a number of years ago while looking for the 617.

quote:

Originally posted by HRK:

quote:

Originally posted by 2000Z-71:
When you open the cylinder, the serial number should be located on the frame underneath the crane. Above that is the model number it should be 17-X with X being the revision number. Unless it's really old, there should be 3 letters at the beginning of the serial number. $375 is a steal unless it's really beat up.

My 17 and 617 below.

Sharp looking revolvers


Yes, covered that earlier, the numbers on the frame and crane match but are not serial or model numbers per Captain127 post and confirmed over on S&W Forums, they are assembly numbers.

There is a number on the cylinder I"m going by later after work and checking it out if it's still there.

If there is a serial number on the back of the cylinder, then it is an older gun(pre 1960ish).
If the cylinder has a serial, then the underside of the barrel(where the ejector rod covers), as well as the ejector star itself (under the star, difficult to see), will be serialed. A early M-17(it could be a "no dash". i.e. just marked "M-17")in good shape would be a steal at $375.

Thanks for the info on the under lug. Both of mine are 17-3 versions (had to go look for sure). Both have the 3 T's (target trigger, target hammer, target sights). One is NIB.

HRK, did you go back and pick it up yet?

not yet, yesterday being a holiday and family stuff encroached on my time, hoping to get up there today to look.

Still not sure if I'm going to buy it, or if it's still there since I've dropped some good coin on two new CZ's this month and re-upped my range membership,

While it's a nice gun and interesting I'm still considering, since I'll be buying a Glock 48 as soon as it hits the cabinet here...

Dude, Glocks are a dime a dozen. Smith & Wesson Model 17's in good shape don't come around that often. You'll be able to get a Glock 48 next week, next month, next year. A Smith 17, especially at that price, probably not.

The 6" K frames balance the best without the full underlug...…. for sure...….I also once owned a 8 3/8" full underlug 617 and it was VERY nose heavy.

I agree, wait on the glock and snap up the model 17 while you can. You won't see another one for years.

That's about half price for a Model 17 in decent shape. I wouldn't wait too long if you actually want to buy it.

Jerry

quote:

Still not sure if I'm going to buy it

I'm amazed it's still there at that price. If anything, buy it and double your money.

Sn is k 236xxx

This message has been edited. Last edited by: HRK,

K236xxx is from 1955. Get off the internet and go buy that thing right now!

The gun has been re blued. There is some light piting on the one side plate it has also had the hammer and trigger replaced with later model 17 parts. They also polished away the factory look of the trigger and hammer.

The cylinder has a few marks from dry fire but not much. So it’s more of a shooter it’s not collector grade but it’s nice. Just not original

Probl

That hammer certainly isn't a "later" part!

While it's possible it's a reblue, it certainly doesn't look like it has been reblued. The lettering looks too deep.

Buy it, put some wood grips on it and shoot the piss out of it.

I paid $375 for mine in 2000.