I have a 92, factory bone stock. And with my med size hands with short fingers, getting my mits around the 92 and the trigger has always been in issue, hence, which is why I haven't shot it in a while. But recently studying all the stuff fellows do to their 92s, I just finished the following mods to my 92 today to make it more shootable for me, all courtesy of the internet for both the parts suggestions and installation instructions:

1. Wilson Combat Ultra Thin Grips. Check.
2. Beretta "D" hammer spring. Check.
3. Beretta "G" decocker-only conversion kit
4. Allen head grips screws.

So this solves a few problems for me with this gun: Grip was too fat, now it's much better for my grip and trigger reach. Factory hammer spring was really heavy for first DA pull, new D spring reduces that first pull considerably. Then the decocker-only conversion kit - updates the factory stock decocker/saftey mechanism to decocker only, which I much prefer, because I prefer to slingshot my slide to when reloading.

So now I'm going to use this gun as one of my practice drills guns at the pistol range. I'm anticipating good results.

Why did I do this ? Because I love the Beretta 92 pistol, it's one sexy, deadly Italians beauty. And now, I should be able to shoot this beast easier and more accurately (in theory).

I know a lot of you guys have done similar things to your 92. If you know of any other "low hanging fruit", short of custom smithing, please let me know, I'd like to hear about it.

next level of tweaking beyond what you've done is an action tune. Wilson Combat charges about $130 for this service and puts in lighter springs (which you've done) and polishes rotating services (NOT a trigger job).

So...the stuff you can do. You'll need some Flitz polish or similar, a dremel, polishing wheel, some 600/800/1000gr wet sandpaper and preferably an arkansas stone (optional but not critical).

* Polish rotating surfaces; hammer pin where it goes through the hammer and trigger pin (not this pin is a little hard to deal with due to trigger return spring so its optional).
* polish both ends of the D-spring with the Flitz and dremel wheel
* polish the hammer end of the hammer strut around the round end. Will end up mirror shiny...
* knock the roll pin out for the firing pin block and polish the sides of the firing pin where it rides up/down in the slide. start with 600gr and work up to polish. This helps tremendously with a light DA pull b/c of the trigger geometry being "under the curve" in DA and needing to lift the FPB against spring pressure and drag on the slide

Last thing is really optional on non-Stainless slides (I always do it on stainless but up to you on carbon slides).

* use an arkansas stone and oil to polish the inside of the slide where it travels on the frame rails
* also stone the "feed strip" on the bottom of the slide...this is what rides the hammer. Polish with Flitz afterwards to a mirror shine. Will require grease after on carbon slides. SS, oil is fine since its SS and won't ruse. The benefit here is that it really "slicks" up the feel of racking the slide...no drag on the hammer.
* some people polish the front surface of the hammer and also inside the hammer where it rides the hammer strut. I've not found either to be worth the trouble.

All these little things add up to make a huge difference and can be done in less than an hour if you have basic tools and skills. And, we never touch the hammer hooks or sear so no affecting hammer drop or factory levels of safety that's built in.

I have lightly stoned the hammer hooks and sear but am beyond the tips of my skiis on that so have only done it on one gun and will leave it to pro's in the future (not my carry gun).

I've also aggressively filed the feed strip down at the rear to round off the 45 degree bevel that hits the hammer in hopes of making the hammer engage more smoothly but it really doesn't feel much different. If anything, knock the corners down and stone/polish per above and call it a day.

I helped a buddy work on his brand new 92A1 that was Italian made. The feed strip had a bur on it and we had to tap the slide off pretty firmly with a dead-blow. We filed that down, stoned, polished, oiled, did all the steps above. Handed it back to him and his jaw dropped. He was like "its hard to believe this is the same gun...it went from feeling terrible to feeling like a precision machine".

There's a thread on the Beretta Forum by "Sterling Archer" where he posts detailed pics of all this and the work that he had Wilson Combat do to his gun. Wilson Combat learned these tips/tricks from Ernest Langdon....he consulted with them on the 92 Upgrade program using experience he had from tuning 92's when he still ran Langdon Tactical Technologies (LTT). So...great experience and braintrust in these instructions (not mine, shamefully stolen from the BF posts I mentioned).

^^^ very good information and basically what I did with my Brigadier. I did add the short reach trigger from WC to mine.
The Beretta can be made into one of the most sweet shooting pistols with a little work.

I have a 92a1 with some very nice beretta wood grips. I shoot it pretty well and just accepted that the 92 is a big girl.

Just got a Wilson Brig. Tac. And I was SHOCKED at how much more svelte it felt in my hands. This G10 thin grips make a huge difference. My 92a1 is just so dead sexy though.

Add a short reach trigger and you will be set.

Joat and 07amf, when you added your short rech trigger, was the single action shot, or the first break on the DA shot, too far back ? In other words, at the end of the stroke when it breaks the shot, was the trigger face TOO FAR back ?

I'm asking because the single action trigger position is already good. And while it would be nice to reduce the fully forward trigger position, I'm wondering if the trigger position at full press is too short.

Since I've never heard anyone complain about that, my guess is it's not a problem, but I'd like to hear from you guys directly.

^^^^
I have small hands (but the 92 is probably my favorite pistol) and I noticed this (SA trigger to far back) when I switched to the Wilson Ultra Thin grips. I used to install Hogue G10's and the Wilson trigger but with the ultra thins I need to go back to the standard trigger. I would get "too much fonger" on the trigger in SA otherwise. It just felt wrong.

For me ultra thins and standard metal trigger is the perfect combination.

I also second the polishing info posted above. I never felt the need to do anything besides a "D" spring but I bought a 92G a few years ago that was very rough, even with the hammer spring switch. I took it apart and polished all the rotating surfaces and those that contact each other and the trigger is beautiful now. Didn't need to touch the hammer/sear notches at all.

That's good information and advice mbinky. Thanks man.

I have size XL hands and with normal VZ grips, the short reach is too far back for me. I've taken the one off that I have and gone to AGW's speed bump triggers for my preferred replacements.

One of the best things I like about the Wilson grips is not just that they are slim, but that they actually have a contour. Feel great in my hand.

quote:

Originally posted by wrightd:
Joat and 07amf, when you added your short rech trigger, was the single action shot, or the first break on the DA shot, too far back ? In other words, at the end of the stroke when it breaks the shot, was the trigger face TOO FAR back ?

I'm asking because the single action trigger position is already good. And while it would be nice to reduce the fully forward trigger position, I'm wondering if the trigger position at full press is too short.

Since I've never heard anyone complain about that, my guess is it's not a problem, but I'd like to hear from you guys directly.

I don't think it was to far back but my reason for the short reach trigger is that I'm missing part of my index finger on my right hand. I have trouble reaching some triggers and it affects my grip on double stack pistols.
If you like what you have now with the trigger, don't change it.

Fixing pics. Standby
Brig with short reach trigger vs old 92F

quote:

Originally posted by joatmonv:

quote:

Originally posted by wrightd:
Joat and 07amf, when you added your short rech trigger, was the single action shot, or the first break on the DA shot, too far back ? In other words, at the end of the stroke when it breaks the shot, was the trigger face TOO FAR back ?

I'm asking because the single action trigger position is already good. And while it would be nice to reduce the fully forward trigger position, I'm wondering if the trigger position at full press is too short.

Since I've never heard anyone complain about that, my guess is it's not a problem, but I'd like to hear from you guys directly.

I don't think it was to far back but my reason for the short reach trigger is that I'm missing part of my index finger on my right hand. I have trouble reaching some triggers and it affects my grip on double stack pistols.
If you like what you have now with the trigger, don't change it.

Joat, thanks for your explanation. I would have never imagined that scenario, makes perfect sense now that you explained it for me. Thanks man.