Can a Sig 226 SAO be converted to a DA/SA?

I don't need a functional decocker as I seldom use it on my other Sig DA/SA guns. (any input on this, can it be done, any pitfalls, reason not to, etc?)

I bought this SAO thinking I would like it better, and I do for range work. But I have carried no-safety striker guns for years and I'm not sure my long time (just pull the trigger) habits can be easily changed, especially since I still carry non-safety striker guns.

Not as I understand it. Could it be done by a gunsmith? Probably. Would it be worth the time and money? Probably not. It’s not just a simple parts swap, you’re talking about needing to alter the frame.

Also, why do you not use the decocker on your DA/SA guns? I’ve read and been told by people who know what they’re talking about to use it, don’t ever ease the hammer down on a gun if you mechanically don’t have to.

I’d suggest just buying a DA/SA gun.

Afternoon, P220 Smudge

What on the frame needs to be altered, I won't be adding a decocker so no machining needed to add that.

Howdy JonTy

I had a similar question on converting from DAO to DA/SA and Rotty37 sent me the link below which gave me everything I needed to accomplish. That said, I checked and they don’t list a parts list for converting from SAO to DA/SA. Might be worth calling them???

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Originally posted by NMDave:

quote:

Originally posted by Rotty37:
Topgunsupply.com has a good section on the parts list to what you want to convert to.

https://www.topgunsupply.com/faq.html

Look under the subsection of: I want to convert my Sig pistol to/from section.

Thanks… That confirms what I was thinking. With all the Gray Guns parts I am putting in this build, about the only part staying in its original home will be the Hammer stop pin.

GOOD Luck!

It would probably be easier to find a used DA/SA frame and swap slides.

Doable, but I don't think anyone would be willing to do it the way OP wants (leaving out the decocker). Liability issue of deleting a safety feature, should something goes wrong.

Sell it and buy what you want. Having some frankengun created that is DA/SA with no decocker makes no sense.

quote:

Originally posted by JonTy:

I don't need a functional decocker as I seldom use it on my other Sig DA/SA guns. (any input on this, can it be done, any pitfalls, reason not to, etc?)

Yes there are pitfalls, the decocker is the safe method of lowering the hammer. If you thumb the hammer down, you are creating an unsafe condition. Using the decocker keeps the firing pin safety in position and returns the hammer to the safety intercept notch. If you pull the trigger and thumb the hammer, you are moving the firing pin safety out of the way, and allowing the trigger to move past the intercept notch and make contact with the firing pin, which would be able to move forward. If you slip, it will likely have enough power to ignite a primer and discharge the firearm.

If you don’t understand this, you need to educate yourself immediately. If you do understand this, intentionally not using the decocker is reckless behavior; it does not make you cool or manly.

quote:

Originally posted by BuddyChryst:

quote:

Originally posted by JonTy:

I don't need a functional decocker as I seldom use it on my other Sig DA/SA guns. (any input on this, can it be done, any pitfalls, reason not to, etc?)

Yes there are pitfalls, the decocker is the safe method of lowering the hammer. If you thumb the hammer down, you are creating an unsafe condition. Using the decocker keeps the firing pin safety in position and returns the hammer to the safety intercept notch. If you pull the trigger and thumb the hammer, you are moving the firing pin safety out of the way, and allowing the trigger to move past the intercept notch and make contact with the firing pin, which would be able to move forward. If you slip, it will likely have enough power to ignite a primer and discharge the firearm.

If you don’t understand this, you need to educate yourself immediately. If you do understand this, intentionally not using the decocker is reckless behavior; it does not make you cool or manly.

Well!, none of my revolvers have a decocker, none of my 1911's have a decocker, none of my lever guns with an exposed hammer have a decocker. I wonder how I have managed to get this far in life without shooting myself of having a ND (been shooting for well over 50 years).

I just asked a simple question about converting a SAO 226 to DA/SA and got plenty of lectures on everything but (IF) it can be done.

I guess this being a nanny type group I should not have asked anything more complex than what color is best!

It can be done.

You'll have to have the frame milled to accommodate the DA/SA components.

Once the frame is milled, you will need to have it refinished (unless you have a stainless steel frame).

If you have an X-Series P226, you'd only need to find the parts from an Allround.

Some consider these options not to be cost effective.

It maybe able to be done but there is one simple question... WHY?

Leave what you have alone and just buy a DA/SA one.... and if you just can't stand it... then sell me or someone else here the SAO one....

Am I the only one here that believes a simple philosophy?:

You can't own too many guns!

Just my Sig handgun collection of factory boxes:

quote:

Originally posted by Blume9mm:
It maybe able to be done but there is one simple question... WHY?

Because "I WANT TO", that is reason enough for me.

So now that we have that "I know better than you" out of the way" can you tell me what it takes to actually DO IT?

quote:

Originally posted by .38supersig:
It can be done.

You'll have to have the frame milled to accommodate the DA/SA components.

Once the frame is milled, you will need to have it refinished (unless you have a stainless steel frame).

If you have an X-Series P226, you'd only need to find the parts from an Allround.

Some consider these options not to be cost effective.

Lots of things in life are not cost effective. I ride a high-tec German motorcycle and that thing is definitely not cost effective, but I like riding it so it is what it is) .

Can you tell me what has to milled, like what on the frame and the reason it needs to be milled?

It seems like the hammer is close enough to fit, the trigger will definitely fit, the trigger bar should clear, the main spring & strut should work.

I'm pretty sure the thing will function with the DA/SA parts installed I'm just not sure if the thumb safety will fit & work with the DA/SA parts. (I have the ability to machine if needed)

I do have a 3 axis mill and a precision lathe (plus expertise to use them) so the machining part is not a problem (as long as I know it can be done I can figure out how to machine it).

My ONE BIG QUESTION IS__ Can it be done??????????????????????????? If so then what needs to be done to make it work?

Or put another way__ Has it been done and if so what did it take to do it?

I don't need hole dimensions or slot locations (I can figure that out) I just need to know if it has been done & what it basically takes to do it?

quote:

Originally posted by JonTy:

quote:

Originally posted by BuddyChryst:

quote:

Originally posted by JonTy:

I don't need a functional decocker as I seldom use it on my other Sig DA/SA guns. (any input on this, can it be done, any pitfalls, reason not to, etc?)

Yes there are pitfalls, the decocker is the safe method of lowering the hammer. If you thumb the hammer down, you are creating an unsafe condition. Using the decocker keeps the firing pin safety in position and returns the hammer to the safety intercept notch. If you pull the trigger and thumb the hammer, you are moving the firing pin safety out of the way, and allowing the trigger to move past the intercept notch and make contact with the firing pin, which would be able to move forward. If you slip, it will likely have enough power to ignite a primer and discharge the firearm.

If you don’t understand this, you need to educate yourself immediately. If you do understand this, intentionally not using the decocker is reckless behavior; it does not make you cool or manly.

Well!, none of my revolvers have a decocker, none of my 1911's have a decocker, none of my lever guns with an exposed hammer have a decocker. I wonder how I have managed to get this far in life without shooting myself of having a ND (been shooting for well over 50 years).

If you are lowering the hammer on live rounds on any of those firearms, you are creating a hazardous situation. None of those are intended to have the hammer cocked without a safety. A typical DA revolver is kept hammer down. If you cock it and decide not to fire, you should be emptying it. If you’re talking SAA, they’re typically kept hammer down on an empty chamber. A 1911 is designed to be kept cocked with the safety engaged (and has a grip safety to boot). A lever action is intended to be kept unchambered. The DA/SA is designed to be kept chambered. To do so requires racking the slide, which cocks the hammer. The proper way to lower the hammer on a live round is to use the decocker.

quote:

If you are lowering the hammer on live rounds on any of those firearms, you are creating a hazardous situation. None of those are intended to have the hammer cocked without a safety. A typical DA revolver is kept hammer down. If you cock it and decide not to fire, you should be emptying it. If you’re talking SAA, they’re typically kept hammer down on an empty chamber. A 1911 is designed to be kept cocked with the safety engaged (and has a grip safety to boot). A lever action is intended to be kept unchambered. The DA/SA is designed to be kept chambered. To do so requires racking the slide, which cocks the hammer. The proper way to lower the hammer on a live round is to use the decocker.

Now that is quite a load of BS. I seriously doubt that you can cite any documentation from any of the manufactures that any of this is true.

quote:

Originally posted by BuddyChryst:

quote:

Originally posted by JonTy:

quote:

Originally posted by BuddyChryst:

quote:

Originally posted by JonTy:

I don't need a functional decocker as I seldom use it on my other Sig DA/SA guns. (any input on this, can it be done, any pitfalls, reason not to, etc?)

Yes there are pitfalls, the decocker is the safe method of lowering the hammer. If you thumb the hammer down, you are creating an unsafe condition. Using the decocker keeps the firing pin safety in position and returns the hammer to the safety intercept notch. If you pull the trigger and thumb the hammer, you are moving the firing pin safety out of the way, and allowing the trigger to move past the intercept notch and make contact with the firing pin, which would be able to move forward. If you slip, it will likely have enough power to ignite a primer and discharge the firearm.

If you don’t understand this, you need to educate yourself immediately. If you do understand this, intentionally not using the decocker is reckless behavior; it does not make you cool or manly.

Well!, none of my revolvers have a decocker, none of my 1911's have a decocker, none of my lever guns with an exposed hammer have a decocker. I wonder how I have managed to get this far in life without shooting myself of having a ND (been shooting for well over 50 years).

If you are lowering the hammer on live rounds on any of those firearms, you are creating a hazardous situation. None of those are intended to have the hammer cocked without a safety. A typical DA revolver is kept hammer down. If you cock it and decide not to fire, you should be emptying it. If you’re talking SAA, they’re typically kept hammer down on an empty chamber. A 1911 is designed to be kept cocked with the safety engaged (and has a grip safety to boot). A lever action is intended to be kept unchambered. The DA/SA is designed to be kept chambered. To do so requires racking the slide, which cocks the hammer. The proper way to lower the hammer on a live round is to use the decocker.

You can’t empty a cocked DA revolver without lowering the hammer manually first. Winchester lever action rifles were all designed and intended for you to manually lower the hammer for carry. So do lots of hammer fired shotguns. The original manual of arms on the 1911 was to lower the hammer on a loaded round and thumb cock it before use. CZ75 DA/SA auto pistols require you to manually lower the hammer to use the DA function for the first shot.

I’m not saying that what the OP wants to do is a good idea. But much of what you say above is simply incorrect.

I'm not an expert or even close but my understanding is that lowering the hammer by pulling the trigger does not engage a firing pin block, the decocker does.
Same idea with a striker gun. If you drop it without engaging the trigger, there's still a mechanical firing pin block to keep inertia from causing an unintentional discharge.

Let's put this decocker thing to rest then move on to if/how it can be converted. I really don't need any more nannys trying to look under my dress!

Right NOW, right this minute, I am carrying a fully loaded Sig 226 SAO with the hammer down. I need to do this at times when working around my farm so the hammer cavity doesn't fill with weeds, tree crap, or catch on anything.

I also have a number of times when working on/under equipment that I need to remove the gun from it's holster and place it on a tractor seat or on a bench or table. I do not like leaving a loaded gun lying around with the hammer back and a loaded chamber so I just lower the hammer and set it down (it's always within my sight and close to me though).

So, with the SAO that I NOW have I STILL need to manually drop the hammer from time to time (BUT it has no decocker). Imagine that, I actually decock a loaded Sig without a decocker. Kind of defies the imagined rule that you can't so that doesn't it?

Now if I convert this 226 SAO to a DA/SA with no decocker I am no worse off than I am now as far as lowering the hammer goes.

I intend to try to keep the thumb safety operational (if possible) so I (could) carry with the hammer cocked and safety on if I choose, so that would be no darn different than I am presently carrying.

But if I can convert it to DA/SA that would allow me to also have the option of carrying hammer down and have a DA option for first shot. (this I would prefer at times)

PLEASE, no more shouldn't, can't, I'm your grandmother and say you can't do that, I know nothing but still say you shouldn't, I just want to be a prick so want to stick my nose into your business and say you shouldn't, JUST LET THAT GO and go tell your wife she looks old if you want to be a jerk.

OK, rant over and hopefully someone has seen, or done, or knows about a Sig 226 that has been successfully converted from a SAO to a DA/SA, hopefully with a still functioning safety.

Well, if you have a 3 axis mill and a lathe and the know how to do it and all you need to know is if it can be done, then the answer is yes. You have all the tools you need.

I think you should take videos and pictures to show all these nannies how it’s done!

What you want to do is sort of dumb when accounting for the complexity and unlikelihood of success. If you lived in some country where it was impossible to acquire a different handgun I could understand but you don’t. The conversion would be both very difficult and unlikely to function properly.

Either buy a DA/SA P226 to accompany your SAO model or trade someone local to you for your SAO one for one. You would probably come out slightly ahead on cash if you went that route if money is a concern.

It’s not as complicated as you’re trying to make it.