I have tried using snap caps for dry firing with my Sig 320 and they seem to bind the pistol making it very hard to retract the slide. Anyone else experience this? Any solutions?

Which snap caps are you using?

I have not had this problem with A-zooms and P-series pistols, but you could check a few things.

- Is your chamber clean?
- Are your snap caps too long for your chamber (both the molded "shoulder" and the nose)?
- Do your snap caps have rough or chewed up edges or sides that could be rubbing on the chamber?

Had the same issue with mine with the A-zooms. After repeated use, tje issue becomes apparent. While i never confirmed the measurements on the cap, the "case" headspace appeared to be marginally longer than the chamber itself. The slide cycle would jam the cap in the chamber and eventually the aluminum was worn off sufficiently. Because of this, and a couple other issues, I disposed of the A-zooms.

Never had a problem with any isnap caps. I typically use snap caps for the first 500 dry fires after lubing a new pistol.

quote:

Originally posted by sigfreund:
Which snap caps are you using?

A zooms

quote:

Originally posted by JAFO:
I have not had this problem with A-zooms and P-series pistols, but you could check a few things.

- Is your chamber clean?
- Are your snap caps too long for your chamber (both the molded "shoulder" and the nose)?
- Do your snap caps have rough or chewed up edges or sides that could be rubbing on the chamber?

Yes
No
No

I have the same issue with my 320C and Azooms.

I was visiting a friend and he let me try a few snapcaps in .45 ACP. These were a plastic/polymer material.

I noticed that they were binding up when it came time to eject them. In looking at the casing surfaces of the snap cap (and I didn't notice the manufacturer) there was visible flashing along the mold seam. He hadn't used them yet and I expect the diameter/concentricity was off. The decision was to take a ceramic file and smooth up the surface.