So I have been following the threads on the Revenant Arms frames and have decided to buy one. Years ago I was gifted a 228 parts kit with everything but the frame. The only thing missing was the mag catch stop and spring. It is time to put this kit to use.

I would be willing to pay for the services if there is someone here who can help.

I did all of the work to my CZ pistols following videos online. Is the Sig easy to work on just following videos?

Thanks in advance for any help.

If I was close I'd happily help you with it. It's honestly very easy...if you can handle a CZ on your own a Sig will be a piece of cake.

The only P22X-specific "gotcha" I can think of is to be 100% sure that you get the magazine catch detent oriented the right way. If you do it backwards, fixing it is a real nightmare.

ETA: Here's the video I used to figure out the magazine catch. It was pretty good...I'd probably trust his other videos if you need help with other steps.

quote:

Originally posted by usncorpsman:

I did all of the work to my CZ pistols following videos online. Is the Sig easy to work on just following videos?
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If you've worked on the CZ75 family the SIG will feel like a breeze. You can easily do it yourself just following some good videos.

I keep hearing from colleagues that there is a business in Green Cove Springs that does excellent work. I don't have details at the moment, but I'm happy to get them if you wish.

Have you tried Wayne at Superior Gunsmithing? I think he is in Arlington.
Maybe call Shooters. They are pretty knowledgeable about who does what.

Yes, SIGs are easy to work on following videos. I’ve tinkered with CZs and SIGs, and SIGs are easier to work on. Look up a video on P226 assembly and disassembly, the P228 is similar. If I was closer I would be happy to help.

I recommend you use a new trigger bar spring when you assemble your frame.

If you can't find anybody closer, I HIGHLY recommend Tony (benny6). The only "gotcha" is that he's in Auburndale, which is quite a schlep from the Jacksonville area.

Might want to reach out to Neil at 2AF up by the airport. 904-593-6921

If he can't do it I'm sure he will know someone local who can!

I have never done a full frame rebuild but I do have a workbench and tools if needed (I also do all of my own work on my CZ's). Also when you get up to the sights I have the MGW Range Master Sight Pro pusher and the required Sig shoe for a P228. It makes setting sights a breeze. If you just need an extra set of hands I am here in O.P. near you (off Camp Johnson Rd.)

Thank you guys for all your help. I am going to attempt it myself and post the results when done.

As 92fstech noted the most difficult part is the magazine release. When you are putting in the magazine catch stop it's very easy to chip the frame in that area if you don't use a tool that's small and narrow enough. I used the tip of an Exacto knife blade after seeing it done in a YouTube video and it works well.

In addition, the hammer stop pin is a relatively tight press fit in to the hammer stop. I'm sure the stop is plastic but I'm not sure the pin is. If your parts are used I would use new parts if the hammer stop is at all loose in the frame.

I used a dental pick, worked like a charm. A wooden toothpick (the round kind, not the flimsy squared-off type) makes a great non-marring tool and rudimentary slave pin for installing the sear, too. Those, a good set of punches, a screwdriver set with a wide variety of flat-ground bits, and you should be good to go.

Also, the trigger pivot pin goes in with the slots facing DOWN, and lower the hammer before trying to install the locking insert.

quote:

Originally posted by 92fstech:
Also, the trigger pivot pin goes in with the slots facing DOWN, and lower the hammer before trying to install the locking insert.

I know you know what you're talking about, but for those who are new to this, the "slots" (the vertical arrows) are really supposed to be facing forward/slanted down, but not completely down. When they are in their correct position mentioned, the external slot facing the left side of the frame (red arrow) will be in the horizontal position. If it's not horizontal, the locking insert won't go back in.

Also, the slide catch lever must be in contact with the frame, when sliding the locking insert into the frame. Otherwise, no go.

If you need someone, you may want to check with Cooper White. He is local to you in Jacksonville.

https://kuperprecision.com

If I can do it, you can do it...


End result..