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The volquartsen thread in the rifle section has me wanting to maybe add some of their parts to my mkiii. I was curious if the hammer would be good enough, same as the 10/22 discussion, or if the wile kit is really necessary? I have a blue 5.5 target, SS 6.5 slab side competition, 22/45 lite and 5.5 22/45 target. Thinking of upgrading the normal MKIIIs. Will do the bushing & mkii hammer most likely at a minimum. A Perpetual Disappointment... | ||
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I would get the VQ sear and trigger before I got a hammer. I run the OEM hammer, clark bushing, VQ sear and VQ trigger in my MKIII 22/45 and it is a fantastic, reliable 2.5 lb trigger with very little overtravel. I have 15,000 rounds on this combination, including 10K rounds without cleaning. I also put a VQ extractor in recently. --------------------------- My hovercraft is full of eels. | |||
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I have three Mark IIs and one Mark III, plus owned and sold one more of each. These pistols can be very accurate and lots of fun just like 10/22s. Much like the VQ hammer is 'good enough' in a 10/22, the VQ sear in a Mark II or III will get you 90+% of the trigger job you seek. In the guns I've worked on, the VQ sear will lower trigger pull under 3lbs. Adding the VQ hammer drops the pull another half pound or so but IMO not needed. There are some other items that you may like, already mentioned by 1KPerDay. For a Mark II, I like the Clark bushing (sand to fit then press in). For a Mark III, I prefer the BAM bushing which will also eliminate the magazine disconnect. VQ bushings fit loose in the hammer just like the Ruger bushing, so stick with the factory part or get one of the others mentioned above if you want a tight fit. I have the Clark trigger in a couple of the pistols, it's curved but not as tight radius as the factory trigger. One of the Mark IIs still uses the factory Target triggers with overtravel adjust, and one of the Mark IIIs I drilled and tapped the factory trigger for overtravel. If you prefer a flatter trigger, the VQ trigger would be a fine choice, purely personal preference. The VQ extractor may help if you have a problem with stovepipes; otherwise, it's probably unnecessary. Forget the VQ trigger bar, I found it to be worthless (sloppy pin fit in trigger). Here is my Mark III Competition, with my best target in a bullseye match, timed fire scoring 100-7x. I have shot a best of a 100-9x in practice with this gun. It does a nice job of pissing off the Pardini owners | |||
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A day late, and a dollar short |
I recently installed a Volquartsen accurising kit in my MK II Competition. After assembling it three times, I still had problems with it. I called Volquartsen about it, and explained what was happening, they asked me to send it in, if I had it assembled wrong they would charge me to assemble it correctly, so I agreed and sent the frame in. Within four days I had my frame back, fully assembled, with a new disconnector installed, all for no charge. Seems Ruger has had issues with machining tolerances on some frames, then when the new Volquartsen kits are installed the factory disconnector binds. My hats off to Volquartsen for great customer service, and standing behind their product. ____________________________ NRA Life Member, Annual Member GOA, MGO Annual Member | |||
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Nice shooting! --------------------------- My hovercraft is full of eels. | |||
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Member |
I have a slabside III, I believe, will the full VQ package, no glass. It is fantastic! Well worth the time and effort. I did have trouble with it, but I asked my wife to fix it and she did. Woman is absolutely a genius with reassembly. | |||
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Member |
I have a Volquartsen accurising kit in my MK III. One of the nicest triggers I have. I would install one in any new Ruger MK in a heart beat. | |||
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