well i find myself with a like new 1993 year P229 in 40 cal that is almost new...but someone who was not so careful and made a very slight scuff...i am told u can change to the later bump style takedown lever which i was able to find a NOS one...but is there any way to use the factory flat one ...is there a shim or anything anyone made to stop this problem?...any help will so be appreciated...i just got the Pshim for the decocker and want to make this is best possible....thanks in advance God Bless,John

John,

One trick back in the old days was to slide a business card between the lever and the frame, I thought I saw a shim being sold here also?

(Shim that I saw was for the decocking lever, nvm.)

I'm not aware of anything you can do to the pistol to prevent this, but you can slide a business card under it before rotating it to keep it from marring the frame.

I push the other side of the take down with my thumb when rotating the lever. It gives just enough to clear the frame.

quote:

Originally posted by Blue Dog:
I push the other side of the take down with my thumb when rotating the lever. It gives just enough to clear the frame.

Yup, +1

My 229 .40 has the same issue and looks like crap. What can be done I don't know, but it shoots so well I don't care. Perhaps Bruce Gray has a solution.

A little lube on the slide in the contact area might help as well.

My P229 .40 (purchased new in 1995) has the flat TDL and also has a slight scuff mark. Barely noticeable and has never gotten worse after the initial scuffing. The pistol is 22 years old with over 47,000 round through it. I detail strip and clean after every range session.

Being careful has nothing to do with it. It's just the tolerances of the parts involved. Since the initial scuffing over 20 years ago, I don't take any special precautions since it is not progressive.

Welcome to the forum.

I used to slide a cleaning patch underneath before rotating, but eventually swapped them all out for the newer style. The newer style is also easier to use.

I use the business card on my JK P226.

quote:

Originally posted by Blue Dog:
I push the other side of the take down with my thumb when rotating the lever. It gives just enough to clear the frame.

^ This.
No marks on any of my older SIG frames since I started using this method.

quote:

Originally posted by Blue Dog:
I push the other side of the take down with my thumb when rotating the lever. It gives just enough to clear the frame.

^ WINNER.......

Shoot them work them
Carry them
Until there are multiple scuffs and ignore such cosmetic issues of no consequence.

quote:

Originally posted by soflaac:
John,

One trick back in the old days was to slide a business card between the lever and the frame

quote:

Originally posted by Blue Dog: I push the other side of the take down with my thumb when rotating the lever. It gives just enough to clear the frame.

Both have been used by SIG classic P series owners for many years and work exceedingly well. Pick your poison.

I've used both methods for many years; I keep a couple business cards in my gun kit for just this purpose, however I prefer simply using the old MK 1 index finger pressing on the TDL shaft from the right side while simultaneously rotating the lever from the left.

I don't fret carry or use wear on a gun, but I see no need to cause it when it is so simple to prevent or reduce.

johnnyringo8769 welcome to the forum!

All of my older P-SIGs were purchased used and thanks to them being put to use as it was designed for, they have and wear the 'swirl'. I didn't realize that it was a 'thing' for the gun to NOT wear that mark.

This is a WG P226 I took in a trade.



That take down 'mark' isn't normal wear. IMO.
It is what some of us would consider an idiot mark.
Took a CCR refinish to fix it.



Nothing wrong in taking a little pride in keeping one's possessions in good condition.

Originally, the SIG take-down lever was a two-piece part: the shaft had a rivet head, securing it to the flat thumb blade. If the rivet loosened a bit, the scuffling you mention could occur.

Now the take-down lever is a one-piece MIM part – that ends the scuffing problem. SIG put a faux rivet head on the MIM part, to give it that "olde time" look. If you by a new take-down lever, I think that you'd get the MIM part.