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Ruger Blackhawk Safety Conversion Login/Join 
Learn it, know it, live it
Picture of 1lowlife
posted
I recently acquired an Old Model Ruger Blackhawk in 357mag.
Although I've owned many types of firearms over the last 30 years, I've never owned a single action revolver.
Seems the gun was made around 1970.
After reading up on the gun and differences between the Old Model and New Model, I am considering sending to Ruger for their Safety Conversion .
So I am asking is this something I should do?

Also I cannot seem to remove the base pin to remove the cylinder.
I can press the base pin latch (somewhat), but I can't seem to get the pin out.
The base pin does rotate and I've tried turning it as I pull, but it isn't coming out.

TIA..

The gun has seen better days.
My FIL was not known for taking good care of his things.







 
Posts: 4427 | Location: Great State of TEXAS | Registered: July 05, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Neat gun.

On the base pin. Most likely a hefty ring of carbon and crud is built up on the base pin between the frame and the cylinder. A good soaking in some Hoppes might do the trick.

As far as the conversion. If you keep the hammer down on an empty chamber, then it's a non issue.

Personally I wouldn't convert it.
 
Posts: 3718 | Registered: August 13, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The conversion is free and you get the parts back, so its worth doing if it is important to you.
I had an older Blackhawk with a stuck pin too. I soaked the area where it enters the cylinder with Hoppes and was able to get it out.
Its actually not all that bad, appearance wise. Be a good woods gun!


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Posts: 16466 | Location: Marquette MI | Registered: July 08, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Not really from Vienna
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If you decide to send it in for conversion, check into having it factory refinished while it’s there.. They do a beautiful job of polishing and rebluing at Ruger, at a very reasonable price. I believe they pay for shipping on guns they update to the new model type lockwork.
 
Posts: 27234 | Location: SW of Hovey, Texas | Registered: January 30, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The upgrade allows you to load and unload without seeking a half cock (or holding the hammer back in order to turn the cylinder. Lowering the loading gate will cam back the pawl and let the cylinder turn, which doesn't hamper function.

One of the advantages of the Ruger designs is the transfer bar that prevents a discharge with the trigger forward, and unlike some six guns, the ability to load and carry with all six chambers full.

Like most, I prefer the 3 screw rugers, but even the classics can be improved.
 
Posts: 6650 | Registered: September 13, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of 1KPerDay
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Ignorant question: if they convert it does it still have four clicks? I gotta have four clicks.


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Posts: 3316 | Registered: February 27, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My previous comment about the loading procedure and the free spin pawl applies to new models, not three screws, actually. With 3 screws, conversion or not, they still need to go to the half-cock for loading and unloading.

Many 3 screw enthusiasts believe that the quality of the trigger decreases and is weaker, with the conversion. Ruger marks the frame to indicate the conversion was performed; the mark is placed under the grip. It's not visible until someone checks, but it's there.
 
Posts: 6650 | Registered: September 13, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I am not a revolver aficionado, but I have several of these. I can't see a single reason not to send it back. You get the parts, its safer and to the extent I can tell the trigger is just fine.
If you sell it give them the parts you have and say convert it back as you wish...


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Posts: 11219 | Registered: October 14, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of egregore
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(This is based upon my recollection of a converted Super Blackhawk, which I haven't had for years.)
quote:
Ignorant question: if they convert it does it still have four clicks?

I don't recall the exact number of clicks, but I know it isn't four, since the first one (the "safety" notch) is done away with. It will still have the half cock for rotating the cylinder.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: egregore,
 
Posts: 28892 | Location: Johnson City, TN | Registered: April 28, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Soak the pin from both ends and through the cylinder gap with penetrating oil... Kroil by choice.


Only get the conversion if you want your trigger to suck.


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Posts: 21454 | Location: 18th & Fairfax  | Registered: May 17, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I had an 80’s Model 586 revolver I decided to NOT send in for a relatively minor recall item.

I just didn’t want that serial number tied to me, bought it used.

Just another consideration, somewhat minor I know.
 
Posts: 6483 | Location: WI | Registered: February 29, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have been told by customers that when they sent their old models in, the company sent a letter back that they were out of old parts. They kept the gun and sent a new one to the customer.


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Posts: 2346 | Registered: February 28, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by YooperSigs:
The conversion is free and you get the parts back, so its worth doing if it is important to you.
I had an older Blackhawk with a stuck pin too. I soaked the area where it enters the cylinder with Hoppes and was able to get it out.
Its actually not all that bad, appearance wise. Be a good woods gun!


The conversion, converts it from 3 clicks to 4 clicks and the trigger becomes gritty. I'd leave it alone if you're not carrying it where you need 6 rounds loaded.
 
Posts: 21421 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
His diet consists of black
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quote:
Only get the conversion if you want your trigger to suck.

The converted Super Blackhawk I had, I do remember sucking. My brother's Super B (circa 1966 vintage, unconverted) was much nicer. An imperfect comparison, yes, but I still think it valid.
 
Posts: 28892 | Location: Johnson City, TN | Registered: April 28, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Light surface rust can be removed with 0000 fine steel wool and 3 in 1 oil. Just lightly rub the rust and make sure the area is wet with oil. It works beautifully and will not damage bluing. Must have good coat of oil on area being worked and use only 0000 steel wool.
 
Posts: 2047 | Location: East Central Toadsuck, Florida | Registered: September 04, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Learn it, know it, live it
Picture of 1lowlife
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Thank you all that responded.
Not sure what I'm going to do, but I do appreciate your input...
 
Posts: 4427 | Location: Great State of TEXAS | Registered: July 05, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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