I’ve been watching the YT videos while awaiting my kit. Anyone have any tips to share? Maybe lessons learned the hard way?

Anyone take it an extra step and try to polish the frame and trigger bar contact areas?

The greatest difficulty most people have with removing/installing P320 triggers is dealing with the trigger bar spring. I have experienced much frustration myself. The below video by Apex shows the entire process, but the most valuable tip is how to remove and install that spring.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wy5c2zSQK8U

I have no experience with polishing any parts.

quote:

Originally posted by Oz_Shadow:
I’ve been watching the YT videos while awaiting my kit. Anyone have any tips to share? Maybe lessons learned the hard way?

Anyone take it an extra step and try to polish the frame and trigger bar contact areas?

Don't loose the trigger bar spring.

As they said, the trigger bar spring. Ugh. Even using the excellent Apex video, that spring was still difficult.

Be prepared to be stabbed under the fingernails.

The entire installation is simple and well documented. The trigger return spring fairly simple once you've done it once or twice. There are several ways to do it, but for me, the easiest (as the thumb method doesn't work well) is a pair of duck billed pliers.

The grayguns spring is lighter weight than the factory spring and more easily damaged. I like the factory spring and use that, instead.

Between the competition set of springs and the intermediate springs, how different do they feel?

I don't think they feel much different.

The P320 trigger is good as it is, and removing overtravel, makes a bigger difference. I think that lightening a trigger seems more important to if one has no trigger control; otherwise removing a little weight doesn't matter that much.

I like the flat trigger. I also have grayguns hybrid trigger. Both work fine. Presently I have several P320's set up the same for competition pistols, with TXG grip modules; in 9mm and in .40. Each has the grayguns trigger.

I have other trigger arrangements including Apex and the factory triggers. For a competition pistol, the grayguns would be my choice, and for other P320's, including defensive carry pistols, grayguns triggers without the competition package would be my choice. The adjustable trigger with the changes in geometry make anice improvement to stock; the trigger itself is a good call. Only if using the pistol for ocmpetition would I consider using the rest of the trigger kit.

The P320 is cocked and locked all the time, no safety; there comes a point with lightening the trigger that I think is too far, and the P320 isn't really a heavy trigger in the first place. The factory trigger return spring is fine, in my opinion. The light sear springs are fine, as are heavier springs, too.

It's very possible that I lack the skill to exploit the light springs, so while I don't notice a large benefit, others may.

Tagging along on this thread as I have just received from GrayGuns an Adjustable Straight Trigger Competition kit...now I just have to wait til the P320 X Full I’ve ordered comes in to my FFL...

I appreciate other posters’ guidance on the various springs and their differences..a question though about the sear included with the kit, and its part in the differences made by installation. Does the sear make a noticeable difference independent of the affects of the springs?

One YouTube source I like and respect, Hilton Yam of 10-8 Performance, really lauded the kit in one of his videos. He installed the kit and ended up using the stock springs with the trigger and sear for a slightly higher trigger pull weight, but said the kit transformed the character of the trigger pull completely...

Thanks,

Commo

I didn’t realize the trigger bar spring would be a problem based on the videos. The factory one came out fine. The Grayguns one has a hooded area on top of where it goes through the bar. It won’t reassemble like the videos.

I assembled it without the spring, ran the spring through the bar and held it, then used a punch to push the loop down to the frame. Eventually it worked. What you really need is a forked spring bar tool. Like a watch type of tool.


When done, my wife said - it feels the same. Feels lighter to me. I used the competition spring set. Plenty of return snap for me. The trigger stop was already close - maybe 1/2 to 3/4 turn.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Oz_Shadow,

I had the Grey Guns Competition Kit installed in a P320 and the trigger pull weight is approximately 3#.

I'm happy to say it performed great. I didn't realize just how light it was until I tried my friends new Gen 5 Glock 26 back to back with it. The stock Glock pull was noticeably heavier.

Funny thing is, I think I like the factory Glock night sights better than the P320 Xrays.

Some more data points: I installed the GrayGuns Competition (Straight) Trigger in my P320 X Full today — I thought I’d start with the Intermediate springs and am glad I did.

After a couple hundred rounds through the gun in stock condition the trigger pull measured 4.25-4.5 pounds with my Timney Trigger analog trigger pull scale.

Now it measures just over 3 pounds...will want to shoot it to see what that feels like in the range/class context. Feels pretty light here at home.

A note on installation — that Trigger Bar Spring is a bugger in this install perhaps even more than others as the current GrayGuns trigger has a shelf almost all the way around the post that engages the trigger bar.

That means you can’t use the gambit of pulling the bar behind that slot it lives in to get the spring attached at both ends because it can’t swing through enough of an arc to let that geometry work for you.

A picture will explain better what I mean:


The left shows the GrayGuns trigger which creates a limited arc (circled) that the trigger can make once it's placed into the trigger bar hole. As opposed to the Sig straight trigger at right which lets the trigger bar move wherever you want it as you manipulate it into place.

I resorted to putting all into place with one end of the spring engaged and fiddled for a while to find a way to compress the spring and hook it into its hole in the frame. I bet someone at GrayGuns has a cool little tool/technique for getting that done!

Commo

I installed the Grayguns trigger in my AXG and can not believe the difference. I like it so much I ordered two more for my and my son’s X5 Legions. Like others have stated, it’s impossible to do the Apex trigger bar spring trick with the Grayguns trigger. After wrestling with the spring for a little bit, I finally figured out that if you take a small pair of pliers and place one arm inside the spring coil instead of the hook bar it is easy to get tension without bending the spring. Then it becomes easy to get the spring hooked back in.

quote:

I installed the Grayguns trigger in my AXG and can not believe the difference.

dking, which spring set did you install, and do you know the change in pull weight you achieved? Curious to see how the various pistols respond..

I did something similar in gripping the coils of the spring so that I could get a finger in there to get that hook into the itty bitty hole..

thanks,

Commo

quote:

Originally posted by Commo:

quote:

I installed the Grayguns trigger in my AXG and can not believe the difference.

dking, which spring set did you install, and do you know the change in pull weight you achieved? Curious to see how the various pistols respond..

I did something similar in gripping the coils of the spring so that I could get a finger in there to get that hook into the itty bitty hole..

thanks,

Commo

My AXG was a hair under 4 lbs from custom works with factory springs. I didn’t necessarily want it any lighter so I kept all the factory springs in place. I just checked on my gauge and it came in at 3.4 lbs average on 5 pulls. My X5 Legion is at 3.1 lbs and my son’s Legion is 2.9 lbs both still with factory triggers and springs.

After some dry firing tonight mine is down under 3 pounds and that's with the Intermediate Spring set...will shoot it but suspect I'll be going back in to bring the pull weight back up..

Thanks for the numbers -- good perspective..

Commo

In ‘credit where credit is due’ mode I learned the alternate way to fiddle the Trigger Bar Spring into place from Alma Cole, a competitive shooter who has a low-key presence on YouTube.

While I’m at it, the videos created by Sig Guy on YouTube are well done and are what gave me the confidence to attempt the various Sig gunsmithing projects I’ve tried..

Commo

quote:

Originally posted by Commo:
In ‘credit where credit is due’ mode I learned the alternate way to fiddle the Trigger Bar Spring into place from Alma Cole, a competitive shooter who has a low-key presence on YouTube.

While I’m at it, the videos created by Sig Guy on YouTube are well done and are what gave me the confidence to attempt the various Sig gunsmithing projects I’ve tried..

Commo

Like you, I discovered the alternate way doesn't work with the trigger with the hooded part above. I think some also used the stock trigger bar spring.

The whole installation process wasn’t overly difficult...that trigger bar spring is the barrier, really...

So if I again modify my trigger, heading back to the high 3 to 4-pound range, I think I’ll start by leaving the new sear and the two Intermediate sear springs in place and just change back to the stock trigger bar spring...not sure what change that’ll make. Thoughts?

Thanks,

Commo

I'd do that first; just go with the stock trigger return spring. I chose to go with it anyway. It's a wise idea to keep several on hand if you're shooting competition, because they will break. I don't think a light weight spring is a good choice in that position.

There are various ways to install the spring. I find a miniature pair of of smooth duck bill pliers works just fine, without damaging the spring, and it makes removal and replacement simple. I say smooth jawed pliers because I don't want the wire nicked or marred to create a stress riser that will cause the spring to fail.