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Besides weird sanding lines or patterns, is there a worry of the aluminum oxide from the scotch brite embedding and causing issues? I know aluminum oxide and similar are not recommended for lapping in because of that. I’m building a 1911 on a Nighthawk frame and slide and want to clean up some handling marks. It will remain bare stainless so I’m looking for a somewhat even appearance, but I’ll be shooting it a lot so it will probably show marks pretty soon. Do not send me to a heaven where there are no dogs. Step Up or Stand Aside: Support the Troops ! Expectations are premeditated disappointments. | ||
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Flitz on a cotton patch. | |||
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| Member |
600 or 800 grit sand paper on an absolutely flat hard surface always sanding in one direction i.e. front and back. Lay the sand paper on the surface and start sanding back and forth with even pressure. For ME: DA/SA=Sig 9mm or HK P30 LEM 9 Striker fired= Glock 9mm If it's a .45= 1911 Suppressed= HK in .45 I like anything in 10mm | |||
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| Member |
Finish it with a grey Scotch-brite pad. The maroon pad is pretty coarse for finishing. | |||
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| Inject yourself! |
Thanks! I’ll start with gray Scotchbrite. Do not send me to a heaven where there are no dogs. Step Up or Stand Aside: Support the Troops ! Expectations are premeditated disappointments. | |||
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