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Waiting for Hachiko |
I had one with plastic grips back in the 90's. I could roll tin cans easily, and mine never jammed. The only problem I had, was on mine, the barrel pivot pin would constantly "walk" even after I staked it in. 美しい犬 | |||
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Tupperware Dr. |
C&L in a leather pocket holster | |||
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Currently I have three that will eagerly digest most anything you feed them. Two of the three were originally jam-o-matics but a thorough chamber polish cured that. If you notice, there is no extractor. They rely on blow-back energy to eject and cycle the slide. Any friction in the chamber will hamper that action. They are wonderful little pocket guns, light and small. So inexpensive and easy to shoot that you can easily practice with a few hundred rounds at each session. Draw from the pocket and triple tap into the head of an IPSC target 7 yds distant. I never use a pocket holster and the muzzle end tended to wear a hole in my pocket. Made a thread protector with a generous radius for my threaded barrel unit that helps alleviate that issue. | |||
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Member |
Reading this thread got my interests up again. While I had it out yesterday I noticed on the right side @ the rear of the barrel the side of the chamber has light gouges from the slide rubbing it. I'm very carefully using some black wet and dry and going to work that section some. I wonder if it rubbing there is slowing the slide down just enough causing it not to function as well as it should. Trust me I'm not taking much material off the barrel. I'm doing it by hand not using a Dremel or other tool.Those gouges are pretty much not more than surface and if I get them down unless I'm missing something should solve that issue. Next time I go to the range whenever that might be I'll try the 21A after I finish this minor project. What I find strange that Nano in about the same section of the barrel had gouges but they were allot more severe from the slide rubbing it. *** A Proud NRA Benefactor Member*** | |||
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Member |
I have a question for someone that has removed the barrel off a 21A before. I looks simple enough accept I see the end of the trigger guard that acts as a Spring for the barrel. Is there anything I need to do special or watch for. I don't want it to come apart. I appreciate any help. I polished the barrel section out pretty well. Now if I can get the barrel off I want to glass bead the barrel. The one side of the slide on that same side had a slight edge so I touched it up. It looks about the same distance now on both sides. I have carried mine cocked and locked in a Galco pocket holster. A few times when I took it out of the holster the thumb safety was off. I cut a small piece of rubber and glued it just under the thumb safety on the inside of that Galco holster so it won't let it rotate off safety. The few times I used it that problem has been corrected. *** A Proud NRA Benefactor Member*** | |||
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Tupperware Dr. |
I've never taken the barrel off, but I'm looking at it now and if I had to guess (and this is only a guess) I would say the pivot pin would need to get driven out from right to left just based on the diameter of the pin on both sides. I'd be careful using a hammer and punch on that pin especially those ears of the frame that the pin goes through. If I had to guess I'd say it was pressed in at the factory. If it was me, I would leave the barrel attached and fold it to the open position tape off the rest of the frame and cover it and then glass bead the barrel. | |||
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Waiting for Hachiko |
As I posted earlier, mine had a problem with the pin walking out, dissembling the barrel, may cause this to happen, perhaps not Perhaps obtaining a new pin to reinstall will prevent this. 美しい犬 | |||
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Member |
Thanks guys. I did a little more on it last night and it's good enough. Unless you are really looking for it nobody would ever see what's left of those light gouges from the slide. So with that said I'm not going to pull the barrel after all to glass bead blast it. Sunset_VA If you're still having that problem with the pin walking out try a drop of blue loctite 242. I'd put it just as the end of the pin was coming out the other side of the frame. Use Red if you never want to take it apart again Loctite 262. Just make sure you don't let any of it get where the pin goes through the barrel. You could probably even put a drop when you are just going to give it the last tap or two on the entrance side of the pin. *** A Proud NRA Benefactor Member*** | |||
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Member |
Well all this talk made me pull out the dremel. I have buffed the chamber before but today I got a stiff cotton swab, chucked in the dremel, applied abrasive rouge and polished up the chamber. A little on the ramp too but mainly the chamber. I have always been scared of dremels and guns figuring it would polish naturally through thousands of rounds. Well that didn’t happen so I applied power tools. I am going to find a box of the shittiest Rem Golden’s I can find and see if it improves. I have heard of some people cuttin a coil or two off the twin recoil springs but I don’t think I’m that brave. | |||
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Member |
I hope it works out for you. The chamber and that tiny little feed ramp on mine looks fine to me. If I get bored maybe I'll polish mine. Usually when I get a semi auto I'll polish the feed ramp when it's getting cleaned for the first time before going to the range. There's been some I didn't mess with. I have my P 320 I'm going to do it to after it comes back from the upgrade. I'll probably shoot it first since I have never fired this P320. Either way I'm sure it will be awhile I haven't even received the shipping label as of yet. *** A Proud NRA Benefactor Member*** | |||
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Member |
I'm a sucker for Beretta .22's. The 21 is no exception. Mine will eat rocks. | |||
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I’m not much of a photographer. I cleaned up my approx. 15yo Beretta M21A. [/URL] This all started when I noticed the slide was gouging the side of the chamber on the barrel. I slowly worked the slide down a little and polished out most of the gouge. I believe I have it. I’ll know for sure next time I fire it. The holster put some holster wear by the muzzle I cleaned up using some 320 wet and dry then a Scotch Bright pads. I don’t know the numbers. A gray one and a well- used Maroon colored. [/URL] I cleaned up the rim of the beaver tail. [/URL] so how it had gotten a mark. And finally the other side. It brought a nice shine on the barrel and the stainless slide. It’s hard to see but I hit just the edge of the frame with the wet and dry. You see it better on the picture with the barrel latch just under it. [/URL] *** A Proud NRA Benefactor Member*** | |||
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Tupperware Dr. |
I remember taking the sharp edges off my thumb safety years ago. I buzzed the chamber to make it smoother also. Mine has always went bang and cycled no problem. | |||
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Member |
Hopefully mine will work better now. I had never noticed until quite recently that the slide is/ was rubbing the side of the chamber on the right side. I hope it will shoot more reliably then it has over the years. I really don't know the round count but it really isn't very much. Maybe a few hundred rounds total and that might be part of the problem for it not working as good as I expected. . I mentioned on this thread that I have a Beretta Nano and it's doing the same thing rubbing the side of the chamber when the slide operates. It that a Beretta thing I'm not aware of? I'm really trying to like this little mouse gun but it's been real hard doing so. *** A Proud NRA Benefactor Member*** | |||
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Member |
I had one I shot a lot and it never gave a problem. Always wanted to pick up another. My only complaint is that they need better sights as they are surprisingly accurate IF you have the right light to see the sights. | |||
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I agree the sights aren't much but it's a close range gun pretty much point and shoot. I'm always surprise how well it shoots @ 10-12'. *** A Proud NRA Benefactor Member*** | |||
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