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| We Only Kneel to Almighty God |
Not a Sig handgun - but perhaps there are some experts out here. What is the preferred grease for the Cylinder Pin / Arbor Pin? On a New Colt Walker / Dragoon Uberti and the removal of the barrel from the frame is very tight. I have some Lubriplate 130-A grease available from a former Garand. Is this the best grease to use or is there other preferences? Where are the best places on the pistol to use grease verses oil? Is there a place (Reading / video) with all the information anyone would like to know about care of the BP. Thanks!This message has been edited. Last edited by: nra-life-member, | ||
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Prepared for the Worst, Providing the Best |
Curious about what the membership is using for this as well, but I'll expand the question to include smokeless guns. I have an SP101 that likes to build up crud between the pin and the cylinder pretty quickly. If I don't get in there and clean it after 50-100 rounds, it starts to drag and affects the trigger pull. I'm not sure if the tolerances are out of spec and allowing extra crud in or what, but the gun locks up tight and shoots awesome, so I don't really want to mess with it. I've tried leaving it dry, using my regular heavier gun oil, and even light oil like rem-oil, and all seem to yield about the same results. If there's a dry lube or something out there that would work better, I'd love to hear about it. | |||
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Member |
I don’t know the brand offhand, but I got some lighter, synthetic grease I use mostly for the Garand, then others if called for. This happens to be white in color. With some applications, grease stays in position better, lasts longer. When it comes to grime & crud, I think that’s why you routinely cleaned your weapon in the military. Depending on a host of specifics, routine care is called for with use. | |||
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| Member |
For the Ruger, once it's clean, spray a bit of Eezox in there, wipe the excess as best you can, and let it sit overnight. The Eezox forms a coating that gunk is less able to stick too. This worked well on my 101 in 327 federal magnum. | |||
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| Prepared for the Worst, Providing the Best |
Thanks, I'll give that a try! | |||
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| Member |
Happy Thanksgiving! I found some information in the below link for you… https://www.thehighroad.org/in...pin-greasing.884136/ I would go with Aeroshell-33MS or Mobil-1 grease if doing more modern day. Or go with the natural as stated in the above link, beef tallow, beeswax, bullet lube mix of some kind.
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| We Only Kneel to Almighty God |
Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family! Thanks for the link! | |||
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| Member |
You're really over-thinking it. I've used everything from Crisco to the latest high-tech oils and greases. I like natural products, like TC Bore Butter, best; sometimes petroleum products seem to have an adverse reaction to black powder fouling. At least your Colt replica has a large arbor/base pin with grease grooves, so it will be less likely to have difficult rotation after two cylinders. Pay just as much attention to lube and adjustment of the wedge. For Youtube videos, "Blackie Thomas" and "Duelist1954" have decent videos concerning maintenance, shooting, and light gunsmithing. There's a ton of others, many of which are crap. (Oh yeah: "Capnball", the Hungarian guy, has some good ones that are less concerned with care, but are entertaining.) | |||
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| Member |
Why do people always say that phrase….”You’re really over thinking it”. I think he’s asking a question to get information to help himself out.
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Anytime!
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Nullus Anxietas |
*shrug* I used to use just plain old Hoppe's gun oil--until it turned to lacquer on me after long-term storage one time. Generally, I grease if it slides, oil if it rotates and on the barrel of semi-autos. These days I use Wilson Ultima-Lube II or Lucas gun oils. "America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system,,,, but too early to shoot the bastards." -- Claire Wolfe "If we let things terrify us, life will not be worth living." -- Seneca the Younger, Roman Stoic philosopher | |||
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