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Member |
Lint is a part of a dot life. Doesn't matter what you wear, it will be there. I've those lens brushes laying practically everywhere where I could be messing with my guns, and one by the nightstand. Easy maintenance. | |||
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Member |
Thanks, I've got a sig romeo zero coming in, but I might replace it with a holosun. | |||
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Bwahahaha! Back to the OP. I looked at several small slide riding red dots for my 365X and XL and settled in the Holosun as well. I went with the 407K. As everyone seems to note, they are really good sights. I remember talking to them at a trade show several years ago and they had just won the contract for a Miami agency (might have been Miami PD). Good folks. Regards, Waco Learning from my mistakes since 1974... | |||
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Member |
Let's revive this one. Got my Holosun 407 today and threw it onto my P365XL. The manual says it's zeroed at 25 yds, but it looks way higher than my front iron sight. I normally train at seven yds and all my handguns with iron/night sights are great at that range. For re-zeroing my Holosun, should I co-witness it with my front sight at seven yds or is there a better technique for using the dot in a point and shoot scenario without using the irons? Not sure where to go with this, but I bought the P365XL before I realized I couldn't just thrown on a pair of traditional night sights. | |||
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Member |
Don’t try to co-witness the dot with the front sight. Shoot the gun at 7-10-15 yds and see where it is hitting with the dot. Fine tune it from there. I zero at 15yds personally. You will be able to use the front sight and rear sight channel built into the Holosun to get good hits at 15yds and closer should the sight go out. | |||
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I Deal In Lead |
The Romeo Zero also has a built in rear sight. And with respect to the lint, I decided to go with compressed air in a can, the stuff you use on computers. Once a day spritz the rear and front and it's clear as a bell. | |||
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