In this Thread I spoke of Mrs Mike giving me a Model 69. Gentlemen, it’s 5 shots of 44 Magnum goodness. I got the 4 1/4” barrel.

We tripped across one this last weekend at a small gun show she heard of.

Out of the box the trigger is really heavy-I don’t have a trigger scale but it’s a beast. So I loaded up some cast bullets and went to the range on Sunday.

With full power ammo, it’s a bit uncomfortable . But with 44special loads this thing is famtabulous. (I just made that word up)

So today I tore it all apart and polished the bottom and side of the rebound, hammer and deburred some edges. I didn’t touch any sear or engaging surfaces. Doing this has really smoothed the trigger pull. There is one chamber that catches when staging the trigger and I think it’s got to be a burr on the ratchet, but I can’t see up close that well with my glasses-and I’m hoping it will smooth out as I continue firing it.

Now I need a holster. No one has them listed by the model number, I’m wondering if another L-frame (686) will be a good substitute.

I like the factory grip, but I have large hands.

I think you'll like it a lot once you get it all broken in. I've had a few newer S&W revolvers lately that have needed a little deburring.

My 69 benefited greatly from a Wilson Combat mainspring kit (I kept the factory rebound spring, as I like a positive reset, but I polished the slide and other non-engagement surfaces like you did). The one downside is that I did get a couple of light strikes after installing the Wilson spring, so I shimmed it with a spent large pistol primer. I had to file it down a bit for clearance, but there's still enough of a cup there to keep it retained. I've got close to 500 rounds though it since doing this with zero light strikes, and the trigger pull is supurb.



The factory grips were too thin and long for my liking. I experimented with a few things before settling on these Hogues that I surgically removed the finger grooves from and shortened the length a bit. They're not the prettiest thing, but they let me get my hand right where I want it high on the backstrap while providing a positive grip on the gun. I wish Hogue made something like this from the factory. Finger grooves basically fit one person and everybody else is screwed.



I have a Desantis Speed Scabbard with thumb break for a 3" L-Frame that fits mine perfectly, so I imagine the 4" version would accomodate yours nicely. I've been looking for an IWB option as well, but haven't settled on anything yet.

Excellent guns. Heavy enough to handle 44 magnums when wanted or needed, but not too heavy to pack in the woods all day.

Very nice. I think alot of 44specials would help smooth it out.

Very nice mod 69, I had one a few years ago and it slipped through my hands. I finally replaced it with a mod 66-8 which looks like it's twin.

Mike, I've really enjoyed my M-69...with the same bbl. length as yours. Mine had a very, crisp, but not particularly light, SA trigger right out of the box. Understand that I find a lot of Smith SA triggers just a bit on the light side for my taste. The DA, however, was and continues to be a bit on the heavy side...and that's after ~1000 rounds or so through it. To my knowledge, both K & L grips will work if made for the round butt grip frame. In my use, Mikulek, Altamont & Hogue grips, round butt or conversion, will fit.

While I've put maybe 100 Magnums through it...handloads at ~1200 fps, my usual load in Skelton's justifiably famous combination of: 7.5 gr of Unique in Special brass, with any good 240 gr LSWC. For 90+% of my shooting it's just right...in fact we've used it to put down several head of large stock.

Too, I've yet to find a .44 of either persuasion that won't perk extremely well with that load. One more tip: I cast my own bullets to include .44's and have found that the old Keith/Lyman 429421 LSWC at ~ 245 gr is great. For really high speed, I like both Lyman/Thompson's 429244GC & 429215GC, 250 & 220 gr respectively, and sized to 0.430". I shoot these in Smiths as well as several Rugers and have always had superb accuracy. Brian Pearce wrote an article on it some time ago and reported less than enthusiastically about its accuracy with cast bullets...that has not been my experience as to accuracy and w/o leading either.

92FS we've agreed on the utility of the M-69 in the past, both here and, I think, elsewhere. It's a fine, light enough to carry woods gun, & with the added benefit of .44 Magnum power if and when desired. Mine's a 4-1/4" bbl'd model that I carry here on woods walks.

Nice work on the grips and internals as well. I've never 'deburred' a Smith rebound slide nor changed out any of the springs, but I may try it on my with your inspiration.

I do well with the factory grips on mine up to 1100 fps or so...but have changed them out for Jerry Mikulek's DA grips...I find that they make a good bit of difference in DA fire.

Best regards, Rod

Rodfac, what holster are you using?

Check out the Simply Rugged Sourdough Pancake. It is my favorite revolver holster. The M69 in 2.75” and 4.25” is available in the drop down list on the order form.

quote:

Originally posted by MikeinNC:

With full power ammo, it’s a bit uncomfortable .

Now I need a holster.....I’m wondering if another L-frame (686) will be a good substitute.
.

Nominated for Understatement of the Year, LOL.

As long as the rig is not rigidly molded, you should be fine.

MikeinNC, I use the one below...fits both my 686 Smith (in the pic) and the M-69. I've done quite a bit of leather work...we had horses for 35 years...so I make my own holsters. This one is an open top, Tom Threepersons style, similar to the "Austin" as built by El Paso Saddlery; first rate work by those folks...not cheap but a lifetime holster for sure.

I build mine with an open toe allowing debris and rain water to pass on through. My version is lined and with a tight fit, it needs no safety strap...Hth's Rod

Rod, that holster is a beautiful piece of work! Nicely done!

I"m a big fan of big-bore snubbies, so my M-69 is a 2 3/4" version with combat grips. Brutal in .44 mag, but just right with .44 spc.
I also make my own holsters and the one shown is based on an original A. W. Brill (in the photo). Brills were originally referred to as "Sunday scabbards" by early 20th century Texas Rangers and many of the ones for short-barrelled revolvers had straps in addition to the welts (plural) that were designed to put pressure on the frame for retention.

Great work John1...The shorter the bbl., the more necessary the safety strap becomes for retention. I really enjoy making them from the pattern up, but equally hate having to put in a welt...Makes the hole stabbing with the awl a witch with a "B". Rod

Rodfac-thanks for the kind word. I really appreciate that coming from a talented holster maker.

The M-69 is fairly large but the Brill conceals it fairly well in jacket-weather so I carry it on occasion at least until Oklahoma heats up...

I've always found the model 69 to be interesting but not enough to actually get one. Because that would then lead me to needing reloading dies, then cases, bullets and perhaps a holster if it didn't fit the holster for my 620. Truth is I have enough handgun caliber to load for and just don't want to take on another. However I am all for it for anyone interested.

BTW, with a revolver you should NEVER EVER "stage" your trigger. There are two reasons for this. First is that if you are facing some nut job with a Glock 19 you wont get one single shot off if you stage the trigger. Second is learning how to shoot double action is to learn how to do it properly. Staging is not proper.

^^scooter, I already have dies and brass..I foolishly sold my Marlin 44 lever gun to my FIL a few years ago when he was looking for one. Now I only need a holster-but I fixed that today when I ordered the Sourdough pancake holster.

^^^

Well, there you go. You are simply fulfilling a need to use your 44 caliber tools. You can't can't let your reloading dies sit idle, they might take up some bad habits with the case lube and get all rusty or crusty.