Not sure. I use postimages.org as I can upload right from my phone for free. Used to use photo bucket until they eliminated the free storage.

Will do

It looks like I do not have the necessary permissions. Could I get some help from a moderator please?

quote:

Originally posted by dcaven:

The photo did not go through . . . Help.

The following flow chart was created by GaryBF:

quote:

Originally posted by dcaven:

It looks like I do not have the necessary permissions. Could I get some help from a moderator please? Thank you.

No "permissions" are needed to post photos. See the procedure above.

Got it. Sort of. Geez. It would be helpful if the necessary muzzle velocity was included in the photo instructions.

Outstanding!

Glad Bruce took care of things for you.

Thanks for posting up.

Very glad you got your pistol back and you're so pleased!

They cut the frame???

Did they re-anodize it?

Hi! I'm glad you like the work. Keith, I and our Crew greatly appreciate your very generous review! Please get out and shoot that thing & let us know how it runs for you. Stay safe!

-Bruce

Bruce, this is a copy of an email you sent a fellow forum member....
Doesn’t cutting the frame alter the anodizing?



quote:
I will tell you that this unfortunate situation once again serves to
demonstrate why hard-anodized frames as the P-series should never have the
anodizing altered or removed; nothing anyone can apply over or replace it
with can possibly be as satisfactory as the original finish.

Our company has reanodized a handful of really dead frames with highly
worn through rails in a Hobbsian choice to restore some modicum of rattly
service life, or else scrap them outright. In no case does such
reanodizing work result in as tight and "correct" a pistol. For us, we'd
never consider screwing with the original anodizing except as a Draconian
last ditch expedient to keep an already beat gun from totally killing
itself.

I can thus only imagine how poor a practice it would be to strip that
anodizing and replace it with something else like a plating or coating.
The thing that would give me pause about your narrative had not Ethan
examined the pistol himself is that I believed this is universally
understood to be a really bad thing to do. I've seen a few SIG's that
were so ruined, and I just figured everyone knows not to strip them these
days.

I still can scarcely imagine anyone doing this as a matter of course in
refinishing work. Without rendering a specific opinion of your frame,
stripping anodizing is indefensible in my opinion.

I must have written this ages ago, as I don't remember writing it, but it still stands: Stripping and re-anodizing SIG aluminium frames has always been a bad idea, perhaps except as a last-ditch move to get a little more life out of a trashed old gun. We avoid cutting into the original finish with only one ordinary exception. Can anyone with technical knowledge guess which modification that might be?


"I will tell you that this unfortunate situation once again serves to
demonstrate why hard-anodized frames as the P-series should never have the
anodizing altered or removed; nothing anyone can apply over or replace it
with can possibly be as satisfactory as the original finish.

Our company has reanodized a handful of really dead frames with highly
worn through rails in a Hobbsian choice to restore some modicum of rattly
service life, or else scrap them outright. In no case does such
reanodizing work result in as tight and "correct" a pistol. For us, we'd
never consider screwing with the original anodizing except as a Draconian
last ditch expedient to keep an already beat gun from totally killing
itself.

I can thus only imagine how poor a practice it would be to strip that
anodizing and replace it with something else like a plating or coating.
The thing that would give me pause about your narrative had not Ethan
examined the pistol himself is that I believed this is universally
understood to be a really bad thing to do. I've seen a few SIG's that
were so ruined, and I just figured everyone knows not to strip them these
days.

I still can scarcely imagine anyone doing this as a matter of course in
refinishing work. Without rendering a specific opinion of your frame,
stripping anodizing is indefensible in my opinion."

-Bruce

quote:

Originally posted by Grayguns:
Can anyone with technical knowledge guess which modification that might be?
-Bruce

To prevent trigger over travel or DAK conversion?

quote:

Originally posted by Warhorse:
To the OP, when did you send Grayguns your P220?

I'm not sure. I think they had it for a little over a month. Time felt like it was standing still but that wasn't their fault. I think they got it turned around in a reasonable period of time. They didn't bark at me too much when I periodically called to check on it.

New trigger performs flawlessly. It has been difficult getting used to the lack of slop. Slop on DA gone, SA gone, reset gone. Once I get used to it it will be a much better and much more precise firing mechanism. I shoot that weapon reasonably well but will be even better than before in short order. I am still really struggling with the DA/SA transition and am looking for instruction in the Houston area. I want to draw, present and fire the first shot as my arms finish their extension with either a flash sight picture or a simple point at close range. This will be followed by a rapid second shot. Overall pattern will be a 3 shot Mozambique with a vertical spread done in one movement rather than treating torso and head shots as different targets. I've loaded the pistol down to reduce muzzle flip and increase speed, I got the Grayguns trigger. Now I need some instruction followed by lots of practice.