I bought a Smith & Wesson 629-1 just before the new year. It needed TLC. The previous owner had Hollywooded the cylinder closed a number of times and the crane was bent to such an extent the gun did not like to open and close properly and...well...it patterned more-so than grouped. The gun was so far out of alignment that I found lead scraping onto the forcing cone. It consistently shot to the left. At 10 yards it shot about 8-10" left and also low but it was a clear pattern.

I straightened the crane using the Power Custom tools for that application and believe I have it pretty straight. The crane alignment tool (rod that slides into the crane after you remove the cylinder) shows that the crane is aligned with cylinder catch bolt face and appears to be centered. I also straightened the extractor rod using a jig built for that purpose and a dial indicator. It's off by no more than about 0.002" which is about as good as I can get it with my experience level. I also used some shims to take endshake out of the cylinder. The cylinder now opens and closes smoothly.

With the rear sight centered the gun shoots about 3-4" left at 10 yards. It is a consistent group. I can move the point of impact to the right a bit with the rear sight but not enough to get the gun to shoot dead center. I would prefer to have the gun shoot dead center while the sight is in the center though.

For the record, I also have a Model 29-2 and a Model 27-2 that shoot beautifully and I can consistently hit bullseye with them. I fired all three guns this afternoon at the same distance. The accuracy issues are not the shooter.

Does anyone have advice on how to fix this? I'm having fun fiddling with this thing but don't know what to do next to bring the POI onto POA.

can you turn the barrel?

When I first noticed the poor accuracy I did some searching and found threads on the barrels being either turned too far or not enough and the front sight being too far one way or the other. I got out the calipers and measured a few points on the barrel to verify if it was centered. I don't think the barrel is twisted too little or too much.

Use 6" bullseye targets.

Sounds more like someone fired over powered loads through it and have stretched the top strap.
Also bending the crane. I've never seen one bent from slapping it closed. I could see dropping it with the cylinder open and damaging the crane.

ScreamingCoockatoo,

Which direction would over-powered loads bend the crane?

This crane was bent outwards, to the left quite a bit.

I've read of people bending the crane not by slapping the cylinder closed but by snapping it closed unsupported, by holding the gun by the grip and twisting the wrist hard in a clockwise direction to snap it into place through inertia.

Barrel crown look ok?

Barrel crown looks fine. No visible damage.

The gun does group properly now that the cylinder is aligned. It just doesn't group where it should.

Is it possible the cylinder could still be out of alignment?

Would it help to run a range rod through it? (have to order one) or is there something else to check?

Have you tried running a properly sized range rod down the barrel to make sure that each of the chambers is in proper alignment with the bore on lockup?

quote:

Originally posted by 92fstech:
Have you tried running a properly sized range rod down the barrel to make sure that each of the chambers is in proper alignment with the bore on lockup?

Not yet. Don't own a range rod yet.

Looks like .44 is one of the few caliber range rods still in stock: https://www.brownells.com/guns...ge-rods-prod655.aspx

Good grief, those are expensive. Especially the combo kit with the "handle". I get that the head is a finely machined and made to exacting tolerances...but why does adding a piece of threaded rod for a handle add $33?!?

quote:

Originally posted by 92fstech:
...but why does adding a piece of threaded rod for a handle add $33?!?

Because they know you need it.

I'm going to try one more thing before I order one.

I made my own handles out of brass rod and a knob for about $5.

Call Brownells and they will tell you the thread size. It is a common size, nothing fancy or proprietary.

Can you put a looong wooden dowel in the barrel and see it goes sraight out or off to the left?

I would have someone else shoot it at the same distance you are experiencing the gun to shoot off center. It may be the shooter’s grip.

Other than that I’ve got nothing, besides sending it to a revolver smith or the factory

The amount of flame cutting on the underside of the top strap should give you an idea of how much full load shooting the revolver was subject to.

That was something I always looked for when buying used revolvers.


Best of luck sorting things out.

lot_45,

I am glad you mentioned flame cutting as it is something I did not know to check.

There is visible flame cutting but I cannot feel it with the tip of a small screw driver (the one I use for sight adjustment) or with my fingertip.

The gun is currently dirty. Once we get some nicer weather (hopefully tomorrow), I will test fire it again after my last tweaking. If it isn't right, I'll clean it and post pictures, likely over the weekend.

Then it's time to buy a range rod.

I tweaked the crane a bit more and accuracy improved. It's now within the limits of what I can adjust the rear sight to accommodate. I think another couple tweaks and I'll have it so the rear sight can be centered and it still hit bullseye. I didn't need to get a range rod.

I appreciate the help.