quote:

Originally posted by MikeinNC:
Before you go to all the trouble of sending it to Smith. Can you post a pic of the cylinder not going into the window? Or several pics of the area? (I use postimages)

I can in the morning.

In all honesty. I was planning to magnaport it. I might just send it to them for an action job and the port.

Just a couple of quick tips. First, if you go to tighten the ejector rod, put a couple/three empty cases in the cylinder to resist the torque. Second, no cartridge burns all of the powder in the case completely, that is why indoor ranges have to sweep the floor at the end of every day. When you go to eject the spent rounds be certain to hold the muzzle straight up. If you tip the gun when you go to eject the cases, powder can fall in the interface between the extractor star and the cylinder. It takes next to nothing to cause the cylinder to bind up due to the tight tolerances there.

Sounds like something is definitely out of spec. S&W will take care of you, but it might take a while and a couple of trips back and forth (on their dime). Keep us updated.

quote:

Originally posted by FrankMoses:
I wouldn’t think 18 rounds would crud up an extractor star, or anything for that matter. But you’ve got to start somewhere.
Assuming you bought it brand new.

Just 6 rounds will cause problems if you open the cylinder with the barrel pointing down, press up on the ejector and then pluck each case free. All that powder residue in the cases gets dumped all over the rear of the cylinder when you do that.

For those new to revolvers to unload use the following sequence.

1) Point the barrel straight up.

2) Press the cylinder release and use your right index finger to push the cylinder clear of the frame.

3) Smack the ejector rod somewhat firmly with your left hand. Remember it's a rather pointy stick so don't smack it hard enough to hurt but you do need to be a bit firm with it if you have a sticking case or two.

Congratulations, you have just emptied your revolver without getting any powder residue on the gun. At this point the ejector should be fully seated and you can bring the barrel downwards into a position for reloading.

Next TAKE NOTE the Ejector Rod is screwed in place using an extremely fine thread pitch. As a result it is extremely easy to cross thread this junction and the only repair is to replace the Ejector Rod and the Ejector Star. Not cheap parts.

To re-engage the threads requires a bit of a feel for very small movements. What you have to do is slowly rotate the ejector rod in the unscrew direction slowly and feel for the point where the thread disengages and the rod drops by the one thread pitch. IIRC that is about 0.012 inches of movement, two sheets of paper. When you feel that drop you then reverse direction and screw in the ejector rod. Take note, if you feel any binding after 1 & 1/2 turns you have it cross threaded so reverse direction and start over. Finally depending on vintage the thread can be either a standard right hand thread or Left hand thread. IIRC the change in handedness took place in the 1959 time frame but there was a 3 year transition period for this change. At the time of the change going on to the 2000's the ejector rods with a Left Hand thread were identified with a small groove in the rod just under the knurled knob on the end. If a fingernail catches on this groove it's left hand, if no groove the fingernail wont catch and it's a right hand thread. BTW, I just checked my 2008 620 and at that date the groove was still being used.

The Model 69 does not have a detent on the end of the ejector rod and nothing to jamb if the rod is screwed out some. I have the 2 3/4 inch and the placement of the cylinder latch detent is even different between that and the 4 1/4 inch model.
https://i.postimg.cc/28SFjHdG/...h-Nill-grips-006.jpg

quote:

Originally posted by leonidas211:
I was planning to magnaport it.

Something I always try to sway people from doing. (owning two revolvers that I wish weren't) Side note, since it's a two piece barrel (barrel and outer shroud), can they?

Check your cylinder gap and
make sure it's not too tight. If the gun's binding up after a little use that could also be an issue.

I think it is always possible that the 2 piece barrel is close enough that the cylinder gap is what to look at. Probably means a trip to the mother ship.

Ejector star and ejector rod have already been addressed. Yep, even a single grain of powder under the star can cause binding. You have to be sure to check both the under the star itself, as well as the machined part of the cylinder that it rests up against. Those particles of powder are sneaky and sticky, LOL.

quote:

underwood .44 special.

Is it the 'black cherry' plastic-coated stuff?
I can't imagine melted plastic around the innards of a revolver.

Are you getting resistance to closing the cylinder WITH ammo, or empty?

quote:

Originally posted by Scooter123:

quote:

Originally posted by FrankMoses:
I wouldn’t think 18 rounds would crud up an extractor star, or anything for that matter. But you’ve got to start somewhere.
Assuming you bought it brand new.

Just 6 rounds will cause problems if you open the cylinder with the barrel pointing down, press up on the ejector and then pluck each case free. All that powder residue in the cases gets dumped all over the rear of the cylinder when you do that.

It never occurred to me that someone would do it that way.

I can't recall ever having an ejector rod come loose and start tying up the gun. Normally the cylinder gets difficult to open and tips you off first.

quote:

Originally posted by cas:
I can't recall ever having an ejector rod come loose and start tying up the gun. Normally the cylinder gets difficult to open and tips you off first.

My grandfather’s S&W Victory model did that, the first time I shot it. It can happen.

Check for sharp or rough edges on the recoil shield. Mine would bind up on heavier loads and it took a while to track it down. The cartridges were sliding back under recoil then would catch on the rough edge running through the face of the recoil shield. It went away after I smoothed out the edge a bit.