Walther CCP for sure. I was so glad when my wife decided to trade that toward something else.
I haven't had problem at all with the M&P 2.0. But then, I just pull trigger like any other striker-fired pistol.

My Ruger Mark II
The Mauser C96 Broomhandle, that my Dad...left to me.

quote:

Originally posted by GaryBF:
Colt 1903 Pocket Hammerless-trust me.

Twist the bareel!

The P290, hands down...you need three hands to do it or two and a vice....Rod

quote:

Originally posted by GaryBF:
Colt 1903 Pocket Hammerless-trust me.

field strip,
easy peasy

when your brother decides to take on completely apart and then says,,, 'hey can you get this back together??''

not so easy

quote:

Originally posted by Sunset_Va:

quote:

Originally posted by GaryBF:
Colt 1903 Pocket Hammerless-trust me.

Twist the bareel!

picked up one cheap cause some goober did not know how to strip one,
so he used channel locks on the barrel,


can't tell when the slide is closed,, thankfully, but you can when you lock it back, even after I cleaned it up a bit,


dude was in total amazement when I had the slide off in about 10 seconds,,,

I am one of those who never understood the difficulty of the MK-II pistols. I’ve had quite a few, and still have one now that I inherited from my brother. I always had to clean it for him because he couldn’t get it back together if he took it apart! It just isn’t hard at all for me, and I can ALMOST do it blindfolded.... I did say “almost”!

I have had folks recommend that quick strip kit for it, but I much prefer to keep it completely original, and since the kit is of no advantage to me, and I’ll never part with it, I don’t care about resale value!

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:
The Ruger LCP's takedown pin, upon which the barrel also tilts, is unnecessarily difficult to remove. I sent one back because it wouldn't come out at all. They sent it back and it was fixed, with a note that I needed to clean it better.

Huh. I've never had that problem with the P3AT I had (which the LCP is a copy of) an LCP I had for a short time or my current P-32 which has the same setup. Use a pocket knife or something with a thin blade and slip it under the pin, and it pops right out. I've even seen where people use a primer end of a fired cartridge too, to pop that out.

In CA, I used to have the Ruger MkIIIs (3 of them) and I hated to field strip them and clean, even though I had "gotten used" to the procedure. I sold them before I moved to get premium CA prices, but they will be replaced with the new MkIVs.

https://www4.bing.com/videos/s...54D5BFD&&FORM=VRDGAR

There is no way a Walther P5 (or P5 Compact) is anywhere 'difficult' to take down. I have 2 P5's and 2 P5 Compacts, and it does not get much easier than this. Both models take-down the same.

quote:

Originally posted by PASig:

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:
The Ruger LCP's takedown pin, upon which the barrel also tilts, is unnecessarily difficult to remove. I sent one back because it wouldn't come out at all. They sent it back and it was fixed, with a note that I needed to clean it better.

Huh. I've never had that problem with the P3AT I had (which the LCP is a copy of) an LCP I had for a short time or my current P-32 which has the same setup. Use a pocket knife or something with a thin blade and slip it under the pin, and it pops right out. I've even seen where people use a primer end of a fired cartridge too, to pop that out.

I've seen LCPs stick like that where you just about have to break them to get them apart. On the opposite end of that spectrum, I've also seen that pin fall out while firing. Those issues, combined with my giant hands, are why I don't own an LCP.

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:

quote:

Originally posted by Nismo:

Are you using your bare hands to try to pull the pin out? I always use a flat screwdriver and pop the pin out from the head.

I use a narrow flat-blade jeweler's screwdriver. This has to be done carefully so you don't nick or gouge the frame. The particular gun in my post had a kinked retention spring and the pin wouldn't budge, period.

Case rim works perfectly for this, brass and wont scratch anything...

Remington Nylon 66. Some gunsmiths will not work on them. I learned at an early age to hold a screwdriver in my teeth to push the disconnector down while sliding the striker block rearward ( under spring pressure ) WHILE holding the trigger to the rear. That said, they are incredibly reliable. Probably the equal to the 10/22...

For easy field strip and clean - Polish P64.

For a real pain in the ass complete disassemble/reassemble for thorough removal of old Cosmoline - P64.

Thank you Al Gore...for the Internet.

The P290 is the toughest to field strip I own, and it's the toughest I hope to ever encounter. From the sound of this thread, it's only an "also ran" in the competition, and I don't want to have any part of the real contenders.

The S&W 3rd Gen pistols. Fantastic firearms, disassemble and assemble like a game of jenga.

quote:

Originally posted by SIGWALLY:
Remington Nylon 66. Some gunsmiths will not work on them.

Often reported to be like rebuilding an automatic transmission.

I was told never to take one apart! So I bought one just for that sole purpose!
Never did though.

I've got a long list but the Ruger MK 1 -3 leaps to my mind. I've never been able to put it back together on the first try.

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:

quote:

Originally posted by Nismo:

Are you using your bare hands to try to pull the pin out? I always use a flat screwdriver and pop the pin out from the head.

I use a narrow flat-blade jeweler's screwdriver. This has to be done carefully so you don't nick or gouge the frame. The particular gun in my post had a kinked retention spring and the pin wouldn't budge, period.

I use those tools for opening paint cans, it's like they were made for it.

quote:

Originally posted by gunsmoke92:
The S&W 3rd Gen pistols. Fantastic firearms, disassemble and assemble like a game of jenga.

I carried a 3913 for many years, and fail to see what makes it so complicated...

Step 1: Retract the slide about halfway, lining up the notch in the slide with the base of the slide stop lever.
Step 2: Push the slide stop lever out the side of the frame.
Step 3: Take the slide forward off the frame
Step 4: Remove guide rod, spring, and barrel from slide.
Done.

Reassemble in reverse.

The only "trick" is figuring out the necessary method to hold the slide back with one hand once you've retracted it halfway. But even that's not tricky. I find it's easiest to do something similar to doing a one-handed press-check, with my finger wrapped around the top rear of the slide and my thumb around the grip, similar to this:



And if you're not coordinated enough for that, you could do something like push the very top of the muzzle end of the slide (above the barrel) against the edge of a table, and use that to hold the slide halfway back while you remove the slide stop.