I always wanted a S&W 1917 repro revolver (Model 22-4)and two years ago I finally landed one. Instead of the blue I was hoping for, I had to accept that my good fortune would be had with nickel plating.

I decided to embrace the ridiculous and create an anti werewolf/ anti (you fill in the blank creepy thing) revolver.



Stored in a black padded coffin case with custom nickel plated .45 Auto Rim ammo should the need arise.

Revolver pic:






Ammo details : I pulled the bullets on 4 boxes of Winchester M1911 ammo (this particular loading uses nickel plated flat nose fmj bullets). Next I cannelured the bullets. The I purchesed some Starline nickel plated .45 Auto Rim brass. Next was a Redding profile crimp die that will place a roll crimp. Finally I had my custom loader load all 200 on top of 6.4 gr of N340.


Ammo close up:




I am glad I have other .45AR and .45 acp loads to shoot in that thing because I kinda want to hang onto these rounds for a while.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: divil,

Man, you know you just have to work up some real silver bullets for that thing now.

Nickel ain't gonna work on a werewolf.

Mortgage payments, daycare, student loans, groceries ... those nagging little things that prevent me from sourcing large amounts of silver.

A wiser method, financially speaking, is to go with the American Werewolf in London approach where the hairy beasts seem to fall just fine to standard copper and lead bullets.

find some Winchester silvertips?

The Silvertips are only 185gr. This revolver has a clear accuracy preferences for the standard 230gr. fodder.

The defense load will feature a cast 225gr. LSWCHP on top of 6.2 gr. Of N340. Think of a scaled up “FBI” load. I may eventually get a JHP load too but other projects are starting to rear their heads.

Nice revolver. I'd love to get my hands on an old but workable 1917 too.

If you don't mind my asking, what did you use to cut the cannelure? I'm tracking the equipment is available, but you are the first person I've come across that actually does it.

Coonan sold a silver .357 bullets for the Coonan classic. I don't know if the had real silver in them or if they still sell them.

quote:

Originally posted by CD228:
Nice revolver. I'd love to get my hands on an old but workable 1917 too.

If you don't mind my asking, what did you use to cut the cannelure? I'm tracking the equipment is available, but you are the first person I've come across that actually does it.

The tool I use is the Corbin Cannelure Cutting Tool.
http://www.corbins.com/hct-1.htm

It works very well as long as the bullet has a flat base to bear against the depth screw.

Bullets that feature a concave or dish base cannot be given a consistent cannelure with this type of tool.

Travesty! That gun is weeping for classic wood grips and a wood case that is lined in purple or red velvet!

Sorry Rolan, I prefer rubber grips on my DA revolvers. Heresy I’m sure but shooting comfort is top banana for me on that score.

I do have wood grips on my Bisley and Birdshead.

quote:

Originally posted by divil:

quote:

Originally posted by CD228:
Nice revolver. I'd love to get my hands on an old but workable 1917 too.

If you don't mind my asking, what did you use to cut the cannelure? I'm tracking the equipment is available, but you are the first person I've come across that actually does it.

The tool I use is the Corbin Cannelure Cutting Tool.
http://www.corbins.com/hct-1.htm

It works very well as long as the bullet has a flat base to bear against the depth screw.

Bullets that feature a concave or dish base cannot be given a consistent cannelure with this type of tool.

Thanks Divil, do you also swage your own bullets? I looked at a corbin rig many years ago but it was a bit pricey and I didn't reload enough for it to be worth while.

Have you had a chance to shoot that beautiful revolver yet?

If you got some completely copper jacketed bullets, I believe you could silver plate them.

quote:

Originally posted by CD228:

quote:

Originally posted by divil:

quote:

Originally posted by CD228:
Nice revolver. I'd love to get my hands on an old but workable 1917 too.

If you don't mind my asking, what did you use to cut the cannelure? I'm tracking the equipment is available, but you are the first person I've come across that actually does it.

The tool I use is the Corbin Cannelure Cutting Tool.
http://www.corbins.com/hct-1.htm

It works very well as long as the bullet has a flat base to bear against the depth screw.

Bullets that feature a concave or dish base cannot be given a consistent cannelure with this type of tool.

Thanks Divil, do you also swage your own bullets? I looked at a corbin rig many years ago but it was a bit pricey and I didn't reload enough for it to be worth while.

Have you had a chance to shoot that beautiful revolver yet?

No sir, I do not swage bullets at this time. I am hoping to have my first casting sessions this year. I even purchased this mold
http://rcbs.com/Products/Bulle...d-45-230-CM-637.aspx
and 15 lbs of 1:20 alloy specifically for this revolver.

If you do land a shootable m1917 Smith this mold or bullets cast from this mold would be excellent target fodder.

If you do not cast and are not inclined to start here is the bullet available commercially:

https://www.montanabulletworks...-82308-230gr-rfp-pb/

Make sure you buy a Redding profile crimp die:

https://www.midwayusa.com/prod...e-45-acp-45-auto-rim

I have shot the revolver. It likes both 230gr. Cast and Jacketed bullets. The lighter weight bullets did not shoot to the sights and the groups were not as tight.

I prefer loads in .45 auto rim brass. I do not like to mess with moon clips all that much.

I seam to remember a Colt done up to hunt vampires. Go towards the bottom of the page.

http://nramuseum.org/the-museu...hunter%27s-colt.aspx