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Member |
I was looking at these more for a fun project than anything else and upon pricing it out vs a Mil program glock it actually may be more costly. Is it the off the griddiness that is the main appeal or is there good reason to build it vs buy a Glock and option it out? | ||
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I got a Million of 'em! |
I have one but haven’t done anything with it yet. For me it’s a little of column A, little of column B mixed with a project that sounds fun. I bought my lower on sale and got a parts kit on sale too. I bought a gently used barrel from a buddy and the hardest part has been deciding which slide I want. There’s so many now with lots of options. The slide will probably be the most expensive part. If I like the result of the 19 sized one I’m building now, I may spec out a 34. I saw recently that they just released their gen 2 full size that mimics the smaller version with full front and back steel rails. | |||
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addicted to trailing-throttle oversteer |
It'll cost more to build yourself if you don't already have a spare slide and/or barrel just lying around. Two coworkers and a good buddy have each proven that out. | |||
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Member |
Also if you don't know what your doing the frame will crack in the first 500 Rd. I've seen two crack at the local range built by people who think they know what their doing but who I would never let work on anything in my house. I saw a third crack but didn't know they guy or what his skill level was. | |||
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Member |
I picked up a V2 full size frame a couple of weeks ago. It uses the stainless rear rail system like their compact model. So there is no tricky milling of the rear rails like the V1.0 and V1.5. I used drill press for the pin holes and used a 1/4" sharp chisel for the rails and finished them off with a mill file and 320 grit. 45 min later and I have a complete and assembled lower. It did cost as much as a new new pistol but that was not why I ventured down the DIY road. I build my rifles, so I figured I would build a pistol. I also do not like Glocks. I just cannot do the grip angle. It hurts my wrist. The P80 lower has the same grip angle a 1911 making it much more doable. The lower and upper parts kit are OEM Glock and the barrel and slide are Swenson. I added a cheap set of Meps and i had a complete gun. First 200 rounds at the range went very well. AfterI figured out my thumb kept hitting the slide catch i had no further issues. Just one ragged hole a few inches dead to the left of center. After getting it back home it was pretty clear I needed to push the sight over as it was not centered. I am happy enough with this build that I am going to do an all out compact build with very few if any Glock parts. | |||
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Member |
^^^ I always wondered about the Swenson slides. I like the look but have heard an equal amount of people who love them and others who hate them. If you could, please post a review when you shoot it. I also thought about getting one of these frame kits but like others have said, after adding up what it is going to cost, it might not be the cheapest thing. I do like the grip more so than the standard Glock frame. At least they got it right with the built in beaver tail. | |||
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Member |
I have a different take...buy a lower...just add a slide assembly from another pistol when you want to shoot it. | |||
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Member |
That is neat about the grip angle being different as that is my Glock hangup. I also think I should look at it as will it be cheaper to buy and add parts compared to building from the ground up. | |||
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Member |
I'll probably do one at some point. Seems like a fun project. I think I might to a 1911 first. Train how you intend to Fight Remember - Training is not sparring. Sparring is not fighting. Fighting is not combat. | |||
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Member |
I got two of the kits for a G19 when Brownell's had them on sale. I've always liked the size of the "envelope" of the G19, but could never shoot one of the various generations I've owned as well as various other Glocks in the safe. I thought of getting a finger groove removal/trigger guard undercut/re-stippling package done, but the P80 kit seemed like a good alternative. The work was easy: It's nice to have access to a drill press with good cross feed, but it's not necessary. There's lot's of videos on line (some of which are questionable, like everything else). The downloadable instructions from the company are just okay, IMO. One of the previous posters mentioned using a drill press for the frame holes, which the company cautions against. I also got a Suarez slide cut for a Leupold DP, and I ended-up with a package that shoots very well. I've only got about 500 rounds through it and haven't experienced any malfunctions, cracking, etc. The biggest shortcoming for me is that the standard (Picatinny) rail on the P80 precludes fit in any of my existing G19 holsters. It was an enjoyable gun project, and I like enjoyable gun projects. I'll try to post a picture in between hunting trips. That said, I'll be picking up an M&P Compact tomorrow: I think that may be the "envelope" I've been looking for. | |||
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Member |
Yes, P80 does not suggest the use of a drill press. Their assumption is that the user will drill straight through from one side to the other. I took a different approach. The drill bits they provide are shorties as well as metric. This works much better with OEM pins. They go in as they should and don't require extra force. For my drill press method: 1. Place the frame in the jig 2. Tape the ends so the jig is fully compressed around the frame - I used blue painters tape 3. Start with the 3mm bit, lower the chuck and line up the bit in the first hole in the jig 4. Clamp the jig to the table of the drill press 5. Lower the chuck one more time to ensure it lines up with the hole being drilled 6. Turn on the drill press, drill the hole just enough to go through the frame a no further - you will feel it 7. Rinse and repeat with the remaining 5 holes. I do the 3mm holes first so I don't drill a 4mm hole in a 3mm slot. By doing this, I got very little if any of the red jig material on the bits. I also ran a punch through each hole and used a Woodpeckers square to ensure the holes were square. They were dead on. Once all were drilled the pins went in perfectly. I also used a 1/4 chisel to remove the rail material. I never even took the end mill bit out of the packaging. I did pass this process on to P80 and they were receptive to my method. Sure is a heck of a lot cheaper than a drill press vice. I did my first frame with a hand drill and the holes were horribly aligned. If you have access to a drill press, the method above is just better. | |||
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My other Sig is a Steyr. |
I went the other route. Started off with a Salient frame, built it up with a Zev Dragonfly slide and a box fluted barrel, and trimmed everything in Titanium Nitride. Tacked a Trijicon red dot on it later. Cheap it wasn't. | |||
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Member |
Why? What is the secret to not cracking? Hogging out too much? | |||
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