What size target and what distance do you usually use for practicing drawing and firing?

I ask because a static target is obviously different than a closing attacker. Even if you start your draw when someone charged from 20-30 feet, they'd be much closer when you fired. It's a bit difficult to imagine a non-LEO justifying a quick draw/shoot situation at greater distances, but perhaps some exist.

Depends. I've done it as far as 7 yards and as close as 3 feet. Within range limitations, I usually try to incorporate a little lateral movement.

As for targets, I just use full-size human silhouette targets. Sometimes I tape a 8.5x11" piece of paper to the "A-zone" so I'm not so focused on scoring rings. Other times I use a "negative" target, where I cut out the vital area of the target, so I'm not trying to see where my shots are going, something one is not likely to be able to see in an actual shooting. Still other times I'll stick mailing labels in different places on the target to simulate multiple targets within my range's limitations, putting them at different heights and distances from each other.

Once in a while I'm able to go to a range with programmable turning targets, which is great for incorporating reaction time.

Target distance 7-10Yds. Target IDPA with 8" body scoring ring and 4" head scoring ring from standing two hand hold rapid fire strings of fire with movement.

Distance does not matter until you hit the 20-25 yard line. One of the hardest classes I teach is draw/fire one heavy, it is a bitch, and taught at the three yard line mainly. At lunch on the first day, the students are moved from the three yard line directly to the 25, and they usually perform well. It is that way by design to teach that efficiency is far more important that what distance on draw/fire one.

quote:

Originally posted by jljones:
Distance does not matter until you hit the 20-25 yard line. One of the hardest classes I teach is draw/fire one heavy, it is a bitch, and taught at the three yard line mainly. At lunch on the first day, the students are moved from the three yard line directly to the 25, and they usually perform well. It is that way by design to teach that efficiency is far more important that what distance on draw/fire one.

I too commonly move from 3yds to 25yds. Work on having the same draw speed regardless of distance. What I need to see with the sights/RMR at difference distance certainly changes the time. Took some time to get myself to not slow down my draw at longer distances. Most of my range session is at arms reach to 7yds, multiple targets, moving... always timed. I do a certain drill when I get to the range, Bill Drill, 2-COM/1-CNS, 2-CNS, 4-COM/2-CNS.... at 7yds. Do that same drill at the end of a 200-300rd session. Next time try to beat my warm time with cold time.

Seek out and participate in IDPA club level matches. You will get all the practice drawing and firing you want, at various distances.

Just a suggestion.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

quote:

Originally posted by offgrid:

quote:

Originally posted by jljones:
Distance does not matter until you hit the 20-25 yard line. One of the hardest classes I teach is draw/fire one heavy, it is a bitch, and taught at the three yard line mainly. At lunch on the first day, the students are moved from the three yard line directly to the 25, and they usually perform well. It is that way by design to teach that efficiency is far more important that what distance on draw/fire one.

I too commonly move from 3yds to 25yds. Work on having the same draw speed regardless of distance. What I need to see with the sights/RMR at difference distance certainly changes the time. Took some time to get myself to not slow down my draw at longer distances. Most of my range session is at arms reach to 7yds, multiple targets, moving... always timed. I do a certain drill when I get to the range, Bill Drill, 2-COM/1-CNS, 2-CNS, 4-COM/2-CNS.... at 7yds. Do that same drill at the end of a 200-300rd session. Next time try to beat my warm time with cold time.

Only thing I would add is I intentionally force myself into small target areas up close. Aside from that, you are on it.

5 x 7 card ( on end) above an 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of paper

30 to 60 feet

For holster draw / fire drills, 3 yards is fine. I used to get the yearly FBI nationwide OIS report (statistics - its what they do best) and lots of stuff happens up close. Most other drills at 7 yards. And basic fundamental sight work at 25.

I am pretty standard at 25' on 8.5x 11 paper with a home made pen used quarter sized dot. Its good in letting me know if jerking the trigger. I fire with intervals of rapid fire, 1 second between trigger pulls, double taps, Mozsmbique and true slow fire.

quote:

Originally posted by jljones:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by offgrid:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by jljones:


Only thing I would add is I intentionally force myself into small target areas up close. Aside from that, you are on it.

Yep.
One of the few things I like to work into my range routine is mostly at 2, 3 and 4 yards. Tennis ball sized target for rapid fire, a quarter sized target for accuracy drills.

One of the reasons I like it is because the target is "right there", and after poking holes in paper, you're not searching to see where you hit on a target "over there". You're talking distances of 6 to 12 feet, much easier to see. Almost like shooting steel and getting that satisfing "Ping" when you hit.


Then there's the one who gives you the "hmph... Easy" comment while you're shooting at 9Ft. Well, go on and put 5 through a quarter sized circle in 10 seconds or less...

The answer is actually simpler than it looks:

1) Draw speed is irrelevant, it should always be a constant regardless of distance.

2) Only thing that changes with distance is the time for sight verification and the trigger press. I don't know why, but many shooters slow down the entire draw itself as distance increases. A slow draw isn't going to improve accuracy.

3) In other words, as distance increases, the time from the beginning of the draw stroke to sight acquisition phase shouldn't change. However, the time from sight acquisition to trigger press would increase due to the need for increased precision at longer distances. How much depends on the skill of the shooter. I would be reluctant to give specific distances, since that would depend on the shooter and his equipment.

Regarding size of the target, I just use standard buff IDPA/IPSC targets. mainly because of the OUTER dimensions rather than the so called A zone, down zero area or whatever. Most assailants are not thoughtful enough to provide a consistent identifiable aiming point for your benefit. FWIW, you should also occasionally use shirts (dark and light) over the cardboard targets.

In other words, you are using the spatial relationship of a human torso to determine where the rounds should be delivered. Center-of-mass? Additionally, in the real world, assailants are 3-D unlike cardboard. If the assailant is angled, the round is going to hit different internals than frontal, even with the same entry point. Then throw in movement to boot. What appears to be a simple dynamic (nice tight group on static frontal target/assailant) is really more complex.

My own standard is roughly hand size groups...regardless of the distance. If I'm increasing distance and not maintaining group size, it means I'm shooting too fast (for that distance). To paraphrase Jeff Cooper, it's always speed versus accuracy. Loosely related is Bill Jordan's statement to the effect that nobody was ever killed by a fast noise.

As a civilian, I use distances of 3 inches to 15 yards most of the time. While I occasionally shoot at 25 and 50 yards, it's not a primary concern.