OK, just uncovered some rust on one of my guns. This is no showpiece gun. It's a field gun that goes hunting/camping 3-4 times a year. I do want to treat well regardless.

Thoughts on best way to remove/manage?

https://drive.google.com/file/...wZ/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/...Qm/view?usp=drivesdk

I'd soak it in a good oil for a couple of hours, wipe it off, then polish the surface with a paper towel and a polish like Simichrome or Flitz. There are rust removal cloths as well.

Got it. Thank you. Are we talking Hoppes Elite, FP-10, etc.? I have these and Flitz in the gun cabinet.

For the ‘manage’ part, give it a wipe down with an oily cloth after use or being out.

I'd use the FP-10 but that's just 'cause I'm sentimental. The Hoppes would be fine, too. You might even be able to skip this step and just use the Flitz on it, but I think letting a bit of oil seep into the rust patches might help loosen them.

Flitz is some great stuff and works miracles.

Nevrdull wadding.....it's non abrasive, it will take some elbow grease, try to go with the grain of the S/S.....work it a while with the nevrdull and then see if it will start flicking off with your finger nail. I work with polishing stainless a lot.....miles and miles of it......probably thousands of miles over my lifetime on yachts in a saltwater environment. I've never worked with Simichrome......Flitz is slightly abrasive, so I'd start with the Nevrdull first (make sure to wipe it off before it dries, you'll have to do it repeated times.) before moving to more abrasive polishes. It WILL come off of there though.

Places like Ace Hardware will sell it locally:
https://www.amazon.com/Nevr-Du...TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

quote:

Originally posted by sourdough44:
For the ‘manage’ part, give it a wipe down with an oily cloth after use or being out.

Yes, duly noted. However, it would be too easy to actually follow the rules of good gun care. I'd rather take the ass-whip of getting it back to good condition (and then hopefully remember how embarrassing it is to come on here for help with something I could have easily avoided).

Soaking in an FP-10 bath as I write!

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
Nevrdull wadding.....

Thanks jimmy. I will pick some up. Sounds like I should have some on hand regardless. Not sure I can get out tomorrow with a 1 degree weather forecast and 130+ car pileups and all here!

My friends at Amazon may have to do the heavy lifting on this one.

Try oil and 0000 size steel wool. I’ve used it on light rust on blued steel without removing any bluing, so it should be fine for stainless, especially a beater field gun. If there is any pitting, get an old all-copper penny (before 1983) and oil each pit, and gently scratch the rust away. The copper is soft enough to grab the rust and break it up without harming the steel.

Steel wool works fine.

Stainless steel steel wool and then a grey pad going one direction.

Well, an FP-10 "bath" (about 1 hr) and Flitz (about 1 minute)...

https://drive.google.com/file/...Su/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/...i_/view?usp=drivesdk

...brought that ham bone back to life.

Thanks for the suggestions. Now I'm going to go around the house looking for more things to polish!

You can not use steel wool on a stainless gun! The steel can get into the stainless and will rust. Use stainless steel wool only.

Scotchbright pads of appropriate "grit" can be used to match the factory finish better.

The "billboard" on the barrel can be draw filed, polished and blended in so you'd never know it was there. I did it once on a gun with lots of custom work, honestly I was ho-hum about the results, though it looked good. I guess it just didn't bother me all that much. I did it because I could.

Not suggesting you do it, just pointing out you can remove a lot of metal if need be, and done right no one will know.



(apparently the only crappy picture I still have of that side of the gun)

I've used NevrDull, the treated wadding polish in the blue and silver can for things like this. Works like a charm. Is also the BEST THING EVER (maybe other than Flitz) for removing carbon rings on the face of the cylinder and underneath surface of the top strap.

DO NOT USE ON BLUED GUNS, IT WILL REMOVE THE BLUEING!

You have been warned...

ETA: Well then seems like you done gone and solved your problem. Gongrats! It looks fantastic.

Slightly funny thing (to me); all the Blackhawks I have ever seen or shot have been blued guns. I've never seen a Stainless gun, even used, except possibly new at a gun show.

quote:

Originally posted by photohause:
You can not use steel wool on a stainless gun! The steel can get into the stainless and will rust. Use stainless steel wool only.

Agreed, you CAN use Bronze wool (most people's preference) and monel wool on S/S without hurting the finish.

Cobra 21- the gun looks great again.....that's the beauty of S/S compared to blueing.

I’d start with a piece of denim rag and any oil. My buddy who owns a gun store does this on guns he buys that have light rust like in your pics. The next step is oooosteel wool with plenty of oil. I’d be sure to follow the brush marks already on the barrel so you don’t leave new marks going the wrong direction.