Hey all-

I have a Beretta 92 FS (now G-converted) that I picked up from another forum member. It had the D-spring installed and the reduced power trigger return spring "fix".

My question is this: Has anyone used the Wilson Combat trigger bar with the stock hammer instead of the Wilson hammer or Elite II hammer?

I understand that the Wilson bar increases the arc and force of the hammer strike so it allows the use of the lighter hammer with less chance of light strikes.
Can I use the stock hammer (heavier) and an 11 lb spring (lighter) and have the same results or better?
I don't mind the appearance of the stock hammer and don't want to spend another $40 on a new hammer if it's not necessary.

What sayeth the congregation?

Bruce

I've never done it but I don't see why not. Of course, you'll have to test it. I think the Wilson trigger bar was designed to allow the use of much lighter mainsprings, not necessarily hammers, at least because people were using the EII hammer with the stock trigger bar for years before the Wilson trigger bar came out. The original Elite I hammer was 'hollowed out' even more than the EII hammer but I read it was unreliable and I assume that's what led to the EII hammer.

Today, I just happened to remove a Wilson trigger bar from a 92 and put the factory one back in (I'm using an EII hammer). The DA trigger pull and correspondingly long 'hammer throw' were too long. I am using a D spring and if I decided to try #14, #13 or #12 mainsprings I would probably put the Wilson trigger bar back in. I even went down to the Langdon #11 mainspring but had some light strikes with the Wilson trigger bar and CCI primers. Subjectively, I prefer the trigger pull of a broken in D spring to any of the lighter weight mainsprings I've tried.

What is the 'reduced power trigger return spring fix?' I've never tried the Wolf unit but the Wilson Beretta trigger return spring felt weird to me so I took it out and use the factory spring.

piedrarc - please pick up the white courtesy phone.

quote:

Originally posted by Snake207:
piedrarc - please pick up the white courtesy phone.

Yes you can use the factory hammer on a WC trigger bar. This is how I set up my M9A1. The 11 lbs spring may or may not ignite all the time. It's just too hard to really know, but completely doable for a comp gun with federal primers. For reliable ignition I say go with #13. Again, that's just my opinion and some have experienced good ignition with a #12, but I have had a number of documented light strikes with #12's as I approached 8K.

You'd have to test it, I personally wouldn't use that combo #11 for anything other than competition.

I currently have a #11 in an Elite II, but that gun is strictly competition.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: piedrarc,

QUOTE]Originally posted by cyberiad:
I've never done it but I don't see why not. Of course, you'll have to test it. I think the Wilson trigger bar was designed to allow the use of much lighter mainsprings, not necessarily hammers, at least because people were using the EII hammer with the stock trigger bar for years before the Wilson trigger bar came out. The original Elite I hammer was 'hollowed out' even more than the EII hammer but I read it was unreliable and I assume that's what led to the EII hammer.

Today, I just happened to remove a Wilson trigger bar from a 92 and put the factory one back in (I'm using an EII hammer). The DA trigger pull and correspondingly long 'hammer throw' were too long. I am using a D spring and if I decided to try #14, #13 or #12 mainsprings I would probably put the Wilson trigger bar back in. I even went down to the Langdon #11 mainspring but had some light strikes with the Wilson trigger bar and CCI primers. Subjectively, I prefer the trigger pull of a broken in D spring to any of the lighter weight mainsprings I've tried.

What is the 'reduced power trigger return spring fix?' I've never tried the Wolf unit but the Wilson Beretta trigger return spring felt weird to me so I took it out and use the factory spring.[/QUOTE]

The part I am referring to is listed as Wilson Combat #643. It's a repackaged Wolff Trigger Conversion Unit. I hear this is the "fix" for the factory trigger spring that is rumored to break. I have no opinion on whether or not that is true. The gun came with a trove of WC parts installed as well as all of the stock parts (thanks SCsigs!). All I have done to it since buying it is install a set of WC G10 grips that have totally changed the way the gun feels and points.
The long double-action throw is the last item on my fix list before I stop fiddling with the gun and start blaming my lack of practice for my lousy shooting

Thanks,

Bruce

This is a range gun so I will probably try the 12# and 13# springs. The lightest trigger pull will mask my lack of practice but at the price of light strikes, it's not worth it.

Bruce

quote:

Originally posted by RNshooter:

The part I am referring to is listed as Wilson Combat #643. It's a repackaged Wolff Trigger Conversion Unit. I hear this is the "fix" for the factory trigger spring that is rumored to break.

Thanks,

Bruce

I've tried the Conversion unit, I hated it. I found that if you perform standard maintenance on the pistol and replace springs you should not experience failures.

https://sigforum.com/eve/forums...935/m/3950030344/p/1

I ordered the trigger bar with the assorted hammer springs and a normal trigger spring. I will see how I like it without the conversion kit.

Bruce

It works well. I have done it.

I do not however understand the use of the reduced power trigger return spring. I have always found that the mushy trigger return associated with the reduced power spring just slows things down.

That's my thought in most guns as well. I'll take a more powerful return at the expense of a heavier pull because it usually ends up faster.