Average size hand I guess. Have shot 1911 single stacks alot.
Recently picked up a Staccato C2 and C. Like the guns. Well made, no issues.

I'm finding that from the holster, I sometimes don't depress the grip safety and have to re grip.
Tried a piece of sticky foam, about quarter inch, stuck to the safety seems to help.

Just not durable. Thinking a piece of harder material or leather, might be better. How it attach it?
Downsides?

I think anything you stick on is going to have durability issues.

The Staccatos already have an extended grip safety. I've never had this issue with 1911s with extended safeties, but occasionally did with a Dan Wesson A2 whose grip safety doesn't have the extended hump at the bottom. (Not as big a deal since it was just a range toy.) The fix I found for that one was not to ride the thumb safety like I usually do on 1911s. Flipping off the safety and then moving my thumb lower to a more standard "thumbs forward" grip, with my strong hand thumb stacked on top of my support hand thumb's base, resolved the grip safety issue by putting more of my palm in contact with the grip safety.

So a change in grip might be a more reliable option than a glue-on stopgap.

Or, you might see if there's a "super extended" grip safeties out there that you could have fitted. Something with an even more pronounced hump might do the trick.

This isn’t a real fix but if you’re keeping your thumb atop the thumb safety try bringing it down below. A really thumbs high grip can lever the palm off the grip safety.

I’ve had this happen a couple of times with my DW. Still looking for a real fix. Welded up speed bump maybe.

^^^Rogue is wise LOL

Some grip safety versions can be pinned to the mainspring housing.

I've seen it on a race gun, but not for a carry piece.

Not sure if they use a standard sear spring, but if so you can bend the leg that puts tension on the grip safety to make it lighter. You can also remove a little material from the tab on the safety that blocks the trigger bar so that it takes only a small amount of travel to disengage.

Glad to see this post.

I have a Staccato XL. I really, really, really like it. It's my new fav now although I'm having to retrain myself slightly, again, to shooting a new platform with a grip and manual safety vs Glocks. I believe it came out of the box with a 2.5 lbs trigger so if you're poor match shooter like me, better be good with trigger and safety controls.

I've been using Glock 34 for my match fun days for the last 7 years. I'm used to choking the living sh*t out of it which to say, not even an ant could crawl between the space of the web of my hand and what the G34 has as a beaver tail (which its not). There is no daylight or gap there when I shoot it which is fine.

Last weekend at a match, twice I pulled the trigger on my Staccato XL and nothing even though the safety was off. Since I'd done this a few times before I knew why. I was too high on the grip safety and needed to slightly alter my grip to fire. It wasn't the Staccato's fault, it was my grip on the Staccato being too high, if that makes sense.

The advice from Rogue is right on. Having said that, I was dog whining about it to another STI owner and he walked me over to the safety area where he pulled out his STI and told me here is how I solved it. WHAT?

He placed something like a black electrical tape around the grip safety and grip to pin it to the grip. Not elegant but works or, works for him.

I'll just train around the Grip Safety and do what Rogue recommends but ....

If the Staccato already has an an enhanced grip safety, wouldn't the shooter's failure to engage it sufficiently suggest they're not getting a full, firm grip?

You can file on the leg to "sensitize" them, meaning so it takes minimal pressure to deactivate it.

You can pin them, drilling into the top main spring housing and putting in a pin that keeps it depressed.

You can "jam pin" it, sticking something like plastic or rubber tube material in between the main spring housing and grip safety, keeping it in the depressed position. (though this has the potential to get banged and jammed in the safe position.)

You you can do like I do and just the tab off and totally deactivate them. (resale can be an issue after that) With my hand size and grip style, no other option works 100% reliable. (well pinning does, but my hand pushes up on the beavertail so much than a deactivated grip safety feels better, makes more room)

Some good advice offered so far.

The following list seems like the best order of options.

• adjust grip
  
• reduce spring tension
  
• Use a string to tie it down
  
• Wrap grip in some bicycle inner tube to hold spring compressed [or something similar- tape will peel off eventually]
  
• pin safety in bypassed mode
  
• cut off safety tang inside so that it no longer touches trigger bar-ever, and is completely useless for anything other than looks.

Your choice.

The Browning High Power, Star Model B, Model S, Model P and others, and Ballester Molina are all exposed-hammer single-actions with thumb safeties and NO grip safety in the design.


Personally, I'd probably use a paracord string to tie it down. If it were an older single-stack 1911, esp in GI format, I'd probably use a leather tie to hold it down. This makes it just the stroke of a knife blade to make it work as designed [or, untie it- but cutting the knot is more fun!].

Good luck!

quote:

Originally posted by Lefty Sig:
You can also remove a little material from the tab on the safety that blocks the trigger bar so that it takes only a small amount of travel to disengage.

I've done this on my carry pistol. I might even have removed more than a "little"

I tried and tried with guns I used for "action" shooting (USPSA, IDPA, 3 gun and similar stuff) I never found a solution that worked, no matter how "light" I set them. Bullseye/target gun, no problem. Something I drew from a holster however, lots of problems. And the more I did it, more practiced I got, the worse it got oddly enough.

My hand just puts reverse leverage on it, pushing up on it more than it pushes in.

(same old photo)

"My hand just puts reverse leverage on it, pushing up on it more than it pushes in."

Right, that is an Unintended Consequence of the beavertail grip safety. Less likely to happen with a GI grip safety.


Disabling the grip safety is one of those "personal decisions." You can wedge it down to see if you feel safe enough before you start cutting on it.

Mine are "sensitized" to disengage with less movement than stock and I have no failures.

I loaned a gun with a pre-bump grip safety to a friend whose grasp did not always depress it enough, even though "sensitized." So I cemented a pad of hard rubber to it to serve as a palm bump and it worked quite well. I used epoxy.

A guy here was having that trouble with a custom gun; no glue job for him, he had the gunsmith weld up about a double height bump to be sure to clear. He shoots IDPA and his safeties have to work, no pinning for him.

quote:

Originally posted by cas:
I tried and tried with guns I used for "action" shooting (USPSA, IDPA, 3 gun and similar stuff) ...

I've never shot any of those competitions, so I can't speak to this.

quote:

Originally posted by cas:
My hand just puts reverse leverage on it, pushing up on it more than it pushes in.

(same old photo)

Wow, you grip those high! I would think that would be uncomfortable on the web of your hand, plus your trigger pull is at an upward angle with your hand that high.

I just naturally grip with the web of my hand at/near the very bottom of the beaver tail.

Then again, like I said: I've never done such competitions, so I don't know what would happen. Been meaning to. Just never got around to it. I really should address that lack in my training, because what shooting I do doesn't even remotely approach real-world requirements in an SD or combat situation.

Upward a bit. Which is part of the reason I like flat triggers. This gun has a large Dawson mag well on it, despite that, the bottom of my hand is still below the bottom of the gun. While I don't have freakishly HUGE hands, they're ok. lol



I fought with myself over deactivating them at first, but when I thought about it, my CZ and Tanfoglio's don't have grip safeties, nor do most of the other semi auto I own and don't have any issues, so why worry.

My Staccato P-DUO and a Springfield Operator both did this to me. I ended up tuning both grip safeties with a file so they deactivate with less travel. It was surprisingly easy to do, I just consulted youtube and found a few guides. I found this preferable to pinning as the grip safeties still operate, they just take less pressure to overcome.