quote:

Originally posted by 92fstech:
won't go out of battery from a contact shot (something I've found can be an issue for the P365 even just shooting paper at the range!)

You're doing contact shots on paper at the range?

Well, I suppose that's one way to guarantee a sub-MOA group...

(I know, I know... I'll see myself out.)

quote:

Originally posted by 92fstech:

quote:

(Now, if only they'd do something about the super heavy trigger and low capacity. Maybe rechamber it to 9mm, and make it a semiauto. Oh, wait... That's the P365. )

I realize you're joking, but I've gotta respond to that, because I did actually put some time and thought into this .

I had a P365...It's gone. The P365 is a fine gun, it just didn't fill a role for me. It's too small for my hands, and the trigger pinched my finger pretty badly every time I fired it. IMO, if it fits you, the 365 makes a good belt gun. Decent capacity, decent sights, in a decent caliber....it's a good off-duty replacement for a full-size gun if you don't want to carry one. I just personally like carrying something bigger.

As a BUG, though, I can't get comfortable with the P365's light trigger in non-traditional carry locations like in a pocket or in my vest...basically anywhere that the muzzle might cover part of my body, or someone else's. I won't have a manual safety on a carry gun, either, so that option is out. I'd ankle carry it, but the whole purpose here was to get away from that.

The grips of a J-frame fit my hand better, it's easier to establish a positive grip on it in a pocket, it draws better from concealment, won't go out of battery from a contact shot (something I've found can be an issue for the P365 even just shooting paper at the range!), and can even shoot through a pocket without jamming.

The only places the 365 wins are capacity and reload speed (not a major consideration for a BUG), and the lighter trigger (actually a negative for what I'm doing with it).

I carried a revolver as a BUG for a lot of years...(lets say a couple of decades on and off...). I still do ankle carry just because it's easier for me, with the new external vests I don't know a great way to carry it. I use a G43 now, just for ammo compatibility.

Revolvers are great for backups and even for off duty. Don't let anyone steer you otherwise. Most gunfights (barring those on-duty where I don't have numbers for...) are over in 2-4 rounds and in seconds. There are few drawn out shootouts in these situations and you revolver is a great option. Enjoy...shoot...repeat...

quote:

Originally posted by RogueJSK:

quote:

Originally posted by 92fstech:
won't go out of battery from a contact shot (something I've found can be an issue for the P365 even just shooting paper at the range!)

You're doing contact shots on paper at the range?

Well, I suppose that's one way to guarantee a sub-MOA group...

(I know, I know... I'll see myself out.)

Lol, I can't even be mad..totally set myself up for that one ! No, I'm not (although you're right, it would be one way to post some impressive groups )...but we had two P365s that had to be smacked back into battery at our last qual. Probably more to do with how those carrying them maintained them than the gun itself...but still not very comforting.

quote:

Originally posted by 92fstech:

The 2 1/8” barrel allowed S&W to incorporate a slightly longer ejector rod than some of the other J-Frames, which facilitates more positive ejection of the longer .357 cases than you typically get in these guns.

I'm liking your gun, thanks for posting this review.

IMO the positive ejection 'problem' is mostly overstated these days, because there is not much real revolver training any more. Gravity is your friend, and back in the day all LEO were taught to eject with the barrel pointing upwards, so then ejection rod length does not matter.

I was issued an S&W model 10 with 2 inch barrel for 10 years and taught myself the following method to eject fired cases:

Grasp the cylinder with left hand while pressing the thumbpiece forward with right thumb.
When the cylinder is released and while holding it firmly, rotate it out of the frame and rotate the muzzle straight up.
With the cylinder held firmly and muzzle pointed up, strike the ejector rod down sharply with the palm of the right hand, ejecting the cartridge cases as forcefully as possible. This works well even with sticky cases and short ejector rods.

Left-handed shooters must determine what works best for them, but one method is to simply transfer the gun to one’s right hand and follow the above procedure.

Added: The most important thing to avoid when extracting and ejecting cases from a revolver cylinder is letting a case rim slip off the extractor star before it’s fully ejected. That’s most likely if the cylinder is held horizontally and the extractor rod is just pushed back, as with one’s thumb. Because the extraction is slow and the rod isn’t long enough to push the cases fully out of the cylinder, the case(s) on the bottom of the cylinder may drop down far enough to slip off the extractor, at which point the case must be pulled out by hand. The worst thing is to let the extractor rod go forward and then the extractor may just push the case fully back into the cylinder. The case can be very difficult to remove at that point and the revolver is rendered useless because the cylinder can’t be closed until the case is removed = Death Stoppage!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: sigfreund,